D-a-n-i-e-l

getting to the back is a real pain. I did have pictures but my phone was stolen. That being said, was there anything other than the oem equipment on the circuit? Possibly incorrect bulbs or other up grades?

Before you go all crazy chasing things that are most likely not there. replace the fuse and clean the contacts a bit. Then keep in mind the fuse is the designed week point and should be warmer than the rest of the circuit. With that in mind the brake lights alone pull roughly 16 amps [2 amps x (3 tail lights + 2 high mount)];17.6 amps by the two charts I found for the 2057 bulbs and probably more considering the two high mount bulbs. So if your fuse is warm it is most likely supposed to be, as it is designed to break/burn with only an other 2.4 amps of current.

All the pictures I had went to the pos that stole my last phone.

picks or very small flatheads

I run LEDs but HIDs would also work. I don't even have to have a bulb in for my light doors to work.

I wrote a post not too long ago on how to fix this and reduce the current flowing through the push button switch. BTW my switch is not physically cooler when on.May as well go find it for you. Link and post are below. http://forums.aaca.org/topic/246242-headlight-wiring-help-needed/ Posted 30 October 2014 - 12:07 AM So after my last post I went out to the garage and installed an additional relay in the interior relay panel. Short of it because I should be sleeping by now. Used the yellow 10 wire to energize the relay coil; grounded opposite side or coil. Removed the small orange/dk blu wire (from the headlight 20 circuit breaker) replace with a thicker gauge wire; spliced that wire to unused fuse spot (13 I think); connected the orange/dk blu wire to second side of the unused fuse (used a 5 amp fuse to run this part of the circuit) The new thicker wire was than ran to the common input on the new relay. Wired the normally open side of the relay (with the same gauge as the new thicker wire) to where the original yellow 10 wire used to be. (the headlights are now ran directly off the 20 amp circuit breaker and the head light switch see minimal current) I may see how small of a fuse I can get to work in the switch side but that will have to wait. The head lamps do remain on for about five seconds after the switch is turned off. I have not dug into why this is, but it does not bother me in the least as the headlight doors close immediately when the switch is pressed. The doors work even with both lights unplugged. I have a couple fuse/relay blocks I had been using for experimenting so the wires I installed all snapped into the factory blocks with no issues. So excluding a trip to your local yard to snag the wires this can be done in around two hours. Daniel

O2 sensor?

Are you using HID or LED lights?

Icm

By the good felpro gasket set. And you can do it in an afternoon

Check continuity on the communication wire that runs between the ecm and BCM. You can also check it for voltage with ac volt meter should be around five volts. If those do not check out I would buss it is the BCM.

Also the rack and pinion bolts I had one break the weld loose

If you are looking for improved performance just go with a K&N filter. If you are set on a cold air intake, remove the charcoal canister, and place a charcoal filter on the line coming from the fuel tank. Then route your piping were it was. Best and pretty much the only way to get a true cold air system in these cars. As with all fuel injected cars, it still will not help with performance unless you get the ECM tuned to be able to use the extra air flow.

Rockauto sells the full set for our lyrics a few bucks.

Is there any? Mine has never had it during my ownership. I am tired of it being overly hot in the passenger compartment with out AC on and this is the last option. Heck my engine runs at 165 when cruising.

The picture worked for what I needed. Thanks

he can use the original intake and have no issues. I just cross referenced the gaskets and the are the same through all years.

No issues with it. If I recall through knock sensor is on the opposite side either way it can be moved. The 90 ecm will run it with no issues at all.

Does any one have a good picture of the wire routing for the under hood light?

I lost 5mpg when I removed mine with little or no power gain on the original engine. I ended up buying a direct fit from autozone for under a hundred bucks. We'll worth it in the long run.

did you keep the original radio working? You can feed it through the aux in on that deck and keep it working. also you can use the old tape player connection as a aux in.

I downloaded all of them so if any one needs them when they are gone I can still share them.

Yes you can I have done it. It takes a bit of work but if you want to you can do it. You have to piggyback a 91, use the driver side axle, and passanger side transmission mount. from a 91. Also a little welding to the donor mount. Like I said it can be done.

oem radio?