Stude17

The 1916 Overland light four looks pretty close to me. https://www.classicdriver.com/en/car/overland/model-4/1916/385970

I would say "Fashion crime". Short sleeves and no tie would certainly improve the look in my opinion. As for the car I would say 1970-71 HG Holden with whatever specifications the NZ Police gave to GMH. Hopefully in 1973 they would not be driving anything older. I know in Queensland Australia during this era when cars were being fitted with radios and cigarette lighters as standard equipment they were removed before being put into use and replaced before the cars were auctioned off at around 12 months of age.

Your response is typical of your approach to other people's views and I find it basically irrelevant other than the part where you allude to a lathe and mill. You do not need these items of equipment to make these studs and further you are not the only person who has spent their lifetime working on old cars. Yes easy for me only because I have made many such items often with basic equipment and other time with a lathe etc.

Spinney I believe can see the curves (duck bills) you refer to on the front mudguards. Also the front dumb irons are joined with a bar as in your photo.

I would suggest that the use of a BSW thread in aluminium is normal and perhaps the best for strength and the Fiat engineers not wanting to have an unusual thread on the nut side of the stud reverted to metric. As for using "Booker rod" and a BSW thread on the nut side this only creates confusion and is unnecessary considering how easy studs are to make.

More specifically an Overland 1911 model 46 roadster?

Circa 1912 Overland?

Now that I suspect it is a Jackson, I can almost read the script as "Jackson."

Circa 1910 Jackson model 30?

As a guess could it have something to do with the discovery around 1920 of leaded fuel by Kettering & Midgley to stop "knocking" in engines?

I think you might be on the right track Studeboy. The writing on the wooden box in front of the engine looks to me to say "Motor Spirit" so why is a box of motor spirit placed with the engine? There is more writing on the box but I can't make it out. Perhaps a test engine?

The door capping and edge moulding remind me of Studebaker. Might be 1918/1919 but I could not say for certain.

This small shaft on the steering arm could be part of the mechanism to operate the brake band. Can't tell if there is another on the other side.

Thanks for the vote of confidence 23 Hack. Sorry Old Car Fan but I stand by my post. In addition although I have never seen it happen if the float had a leak and was fuel logged that could also be the problem. I will be interested in the tank rebuilder's findings.

Check out the brass seat for the suction valve (Reference "A" in the Stewart book) as they do come loose in the die cast metal tank top. When this happens the suction valve fails to seat properly and cut off the vacuum causing fuel to be sucked into the inlet manifold. The seat needs to be checked carefully as they may seem tight when they are in fact loose.

1920 to 1925 Overland 4 or Model 91.

A British Daimler Conquest circa 1954.

Chalmers about 1915?

Circa 1923 Overland Model 91.

Excellent photos Stude Light. I think Oldcar is very lucky you are taking an interest in his vehicle and providing good information and advice.

Oldcar you were much luckier than I was as I searched for a long time for the correct key but did not find one. With respect to the comments "What if in the course of trying to remove the lock cylinder you destroy the lock? and "I've already looked at it enough to know better than to try removing the cylinder" as I have already pointed out I have actually done it and at no time did I have concerns that I would destroy or damage anything or that it was overly difficult. There is no way I would be happy with a non functional switch or using some under the dash rigged up system knowing it could be made functional . However, I suppose if you do not feel confident in doing something then it would be best not to do it but this does not mean it is impossible to do it.

My 1917 ignition switch had no key so I purchased a Yale Junior Studebaker key on e-bay and rearranged the pins in the switch (with a little filing to get the right height)and it works OK. The key number doesn't match the switch but it works and the key has the Studebaker logo so I am happy with it. There is currently a Yale Junior key on e-bay now for $25.00. I was lucky the key I bought fitted into the switch but would not turn it. Not sure if I was just lucky or all Yale Junior keys fit into the switches so all that is needed is to rearrange the pins (with a little filing) which is quite easy to do. I did have some spare pins which made it easier to get the right ones.

1960 Morris Minor 1000.

A Chris-Craft boat steering wheel. See attached link. http://www.diy-wood-boat.com/sheila-o-1957-15-ft-chriscraft-cavalier.html

For what it is worth it looks to me like a sheet metal (or leather ) workers clamp. Do the jaws lock shut when the handles are closed as there appears to be a slight "cam" at the handle end.