Stude17

One thing I would look at is the brake pedal pivot to see that it is not binding.

Here is an article that gives an explanation as to "Why". https://www.moogparts.com/en-gb/blog/camber-caster-and-toe-on-an-oval-track.html#:~:text=Oval track racing&text=In a NASCAR® oval,so they use positive camber.

My 4 cylinder has a 1 3/8" bore manifold and the carby is the same so I would go with 1 3/8".

Looks like the remains of an antique desk fan to me. https://antiquefanparts.com/circa-1925-12-westinghouse-style-516860a-oscillating-desk-fan-survivor/

Looks like 37 watchers but no bidders. From what can be seen various parts (and in particular the wood spoke wheels) have been restored to a high standard. Wish it was being auctioned in Australia.

Mike here are some photos of a Schebler R with intake manifold and vacuum tank for a 1917 Series 18 Studebaker (Four cylinder). The original cork float was not useable so I obtained a replacement brass float and soldered the float pivot/needle assembly onto it. Hope this gives some idea how it attaches.

Mike you might try following up this link. hkraft1 has not posted for a while but you never know he may still have them/or parts.

These lights listed on Ebay as 1920's Durant are similiar but not quite an exact match. https://www.ebay.com/itm/225931650519?itmmeta=01HSWADRZCARJDP77TWYPGD4SQ&hash=item349a9365d7:g:xHkAAOSw5aZlig4R

A "Southern Cross" built in Australia (1931-1935) by Sir Charles Kingsford Smith. See attached. https://historicvehicles.com.au/historic-car-brands/southern-cross-smithys-car/

The other "thing" beside the oil can bracket is the horn switch. Operated by the button on the steering wheel via a steel rod down the steering column.

The "14" in the grille indicates it is the Flying 14 with the larger 1776 cc engine.

Circa 1939 Anderson Special Four Wheel Drive. https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/british_sports_cars

Flint looks good.

How about a 1926 Gardner? https://www.ebay.com/motors/blog/painstaking-restoration-of-a-1926-gardner-pays-off-for-phoenix-man/

Distributor points adjusting tool. https://www.ebay.com/itm/134798802487 A similar Snapon tool. https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/snap-tk-30-ignition-tool-1807469566

Lee H beat me to it. It's a Wasco Flathead Timing fixture. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/wasco-flathead-timing-fixture-sold-thanks-bruce.1112576/

The only reason that I can see to follow either sequence ie from furtherest to closest or closest to furtherest is that you follow the sequence chosen thereby making sure all wheel cylinders are bled. Just my thoughts. I have always used the furtherest to closest.

From memory that small recrangular trim piece goes on the floorboards undeneath the clutch and brake pedals for a heel plate.

Looks like a 1917 Model 85 to me.

This Studebaker Parts Book would be helpful if you don't have one. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/335201555116?hash=item4e0b91d2ac:g:6DwAAOSw4wZlnLUd&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4LUIxaBRhK%2FARI7RtoY5dczCvXqSEUJ6D%2BHncY9G2mGXwLkYRfU20CoXRuygNp5%2BXyfEl5YKftwykbULzNHzxXSL5bXXM3A44YdOwcqx2olPuwh2HbXCdc%2FDfqvtcJjjruiNWENikhZa7xMETclWt%2F8VkKYYODkIhKQOzo0eMCMOWyQN3THPMrUdejl4wnqMUpwyrFtMgyWNx2Dz3F4Au3wYik4b8X0vHdZpcnEjEN8JQga9lh8Cn7onjK%2B9NIcDYGnbl%2Bsv%2BeunZF5Rwe8rcboLDHSliAt9c8Kp3QrP%2F8D0|tkp%3ABk9SR5z31bepYw

I think you are right and Fischer Body Company would be a better fit for the stamping considering that they were general coach builders.

The stamping in the last photo appears to be "FB Co 4332". Could this be the Fuller Buggy Company. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Fuller_Buggy_Company

The hole your blue arrow is pointing is as far as I know not necessary and hence it was plugged with with aluminium or something like that. Plug it up again.

This diagram may help you Mike. I think the little "nub" you refer to is actually item 16990 on the diagram which is identified as a "Generator drive shaft plug" and is probably nothing more than a hardened piece of metal for the ball bearing to contact and take out any end float in the generator drive shaft.

I agree that it is for riveting brake linings but also clutch linings and I would say the punch shown would be for clutch linings.