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FomocoService

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Everything posted by FomocoService

  1. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: packards42</div><div class="ubbcode-body">no children please. Granparents only. </div></div> This is BS! I'm only 28 yrs old and my 6 & 4 yr old kids are involved with the hobby. In fact the 6 yr old & I are accumulating parts to build his Model A. By the time he's old enough to drive it'll be done. The only way this club will prosper is to get the younger generations involved and get them away from video games and other modern nuisances. I'm fortunate that my Grandparents as parents got me interested in old cars at a VERY young age. I attribute your remark to narrowness of mind.
  2. The only inside handles they should have is a small handle that connects to the exterior door handle shaft. it's the same interior handle used on 30-31 Open Cars. To answer your question- yes they should be there. '28's had no exterior handle only an interior handle. If needed I'll take a pic and post it for you.
  3. The spring just holds the oil pump in position- tight against the block. The guide pin will not be a super tight fit in the block. It should fit in the hole easily. You should have a lock bolt/nut on the side of the motor. Make sure this is is tight. I'm unsure of the guide pin diameter,however I'll measure a couple when I get to the shop tomorrow.
  4. Devilbiss is a good gun... With Acrylic enamel when you do your final coat put it on wet. And you can add a small amount of extra reducer- that will help it flow out better and you'll get less orange peel.
  5. A wet coat is a 'full coat' where you lay down alot of paint in one pass. You'd open up your fluid adjustment on the gun and move slower but not as slow to where you have runs and other issues. Couple of quick questions.. What kind of gun and what kind of paint? Is it a metallic color? Those take a different technique.
  6. You're looking for a Chromed wiper correct? You'd be better off buying one already plated as to get one replated(they're pot metal) can be expensive.
  7. I've got a Genuine Ford BBQ grill I take out for certain occasions. I have the normal 1940s era blankets, chairs, cutlery and plates, cups etc... I haven't had any of it out in a loooonng time.
  8. As a collector of all things Ford I ran across this cleanser can at a local show this weekend. For 3 bucks how could I go wrong? It's unusual in the fact that it has 2 types of cleanser in one can. the top and bottom both have openings. Perhaps this was commonplace back then, but I've never seen one until now. A couple other oddities... A genuine medicine bottle from the Henry Ford Hospital in Detroit. This one is marked 1934.
  9. Also check to see that it's totally bled.. you may have a bit of air in one cylinder which isn't letting it work properly.
  10. Jeff, Actually it's very common with hi-production cars like Fords, Chevys etc.... I had a Model A in the shop that was pretty much unrestored except for engine work. The interior was a Deluxe Interior and the car itself was a Standard. They just did whatever they could to keep the line moving and not worry about being 'correct'.
  11. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Friartuck</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use the Lincoln SP-175 which is a 220V unit. My suggestion is make the investment into a 220V line for both the welder and the compressor. You'll never look back! Chris</div></div> I have the exact same welder and have had NO complaints! However this model is no longer in production...... I use mine for everything from sheetmetal to welding some structural steel...
  12. Lincoln and Miller are two of the better brands.. I use a Lincoln in my shop and have had no troubles with it. Hobart makes a decent 110V welder too....
  13. To get this thread back on track.................. Here's some stuff I had sitting on my desk this afternoon. Tool check tags..... Ford Touch up paint..... Ford Dealer magazine--- not affiliated with Ford Motor Co. Ford Rubber Cement--- and it's still good!
  14. That's an unusual piece! My 'junk' is more like the run of the mill Ford things, I'll get some pics tonight of the stuff I have out right now...
  15. You need an Adhesion Promoter...... Most all Paint companies make it, including Bulldog as Kuhner pointed out. Make sure you get the base adhesion promoter.. not mid coat(like Dupont's 222S)
  16. I grew up with the following: Grandfather: 1928 Ford Pickup 1929 Ford Sedan 1930 Ford Pickup(I own this one now) 1931 Ford Roadster(I have this one now too) 1931 Ford A-400 1931 Ford Coupe 1931 Ford Sport Coupe 1931 Ford Touring 1932 Ford Model B Pickup Father: 1931 Ford Tudor Sedan 1931 Ford Panel Delivery 79-B 1955 Ford Victoria 1955 Ford Sunliner 1955 Ford Crown Victoria 1956 Ford Sedan(24,000 mile original car) 1968 Barracuda Convert. As you can see I grew up with a bunch of cars and there was always something to do!
  17. Actually there's a Kewanee(I think it's a county) in Michigan too! But yea you got it....... Another true or false... In 1928 Edsel Ford was reviewing some advertisements for printing. One of the ads- a Coupe had a different shade of blue than it was supposed to have. Edsel liked the 'improper' shade of blue and it became a new Ford color.
  18. Single Stage Urethane..... It'll hold up better than lacquer and is just as easy to spray. You can sand & repair Acrylic Enamel if you use a hardener in it. which you should as it's much to soft without it. In my resto shop all I use is Urethane.....
  19. I'd recommend the Service Bulletins.. the full size versions as you can see the photos better...
  20. I was reading Henry's Lady last night (great book-tho some of the restos are not authentic)At any rate the book is dedicated to Mr. Birch! Here's another.... True or False.. The Model A Colors L'Anse Green, Kewanee Green, are named after Michigan Cities... This is a good thread! I did something like this for our club newsletter but I made it too hard as no one got all the answers..Maybe I'll post them here tonight.
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