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I have a large assortment of Dupont Paint chip sheets for all years ranging from 1950-1973 All American makes and most imports of that era. I'm asking $10 per year or discount if you buy more than one set. Free shipping.. Email Aslayton1@gmail.com with any questions. Thanks

A nice original seldom seen reference manual for 1942 Fords and also contains info on Lincoln & Mercury. All pages are there but the front cover is loose from the binding. Let me know if you'd like photos. $50.00 thanks

A nice original shop manual dealing with the new Y-Block and other topics like pwer seats installing the plexiglas roof etc etc.. $25.00 Thanks

I've got a nice original front sway bar that came off a 1931 Chevrolet. $50.00 or best offer, I can post pics later today thanks.

Look like early 30s Plymouth to me......

That's a Ford 6cyl 215/223 cid head... used from 1952-64. Sometimes you'll find "EBP" cast on them. The head standing up in the second pic is a Y-Block Ford head 239-256-272-292-312 Variety.

What if the frame is an original accessory? I have an NOS Ford license plate frame I plan to use on my '55 Ford Convert which will be judged in AACA.

These are interchangeable with Ford so that may help widen your search a bit!

I'm the same way.... I've got a couple Model A's and a few 50s Fords, but wanted a T just because of the Novelty factor. not to mention any dedicated Ford collector such as myself should have at least one Model T! I have a '21 Roadster in a bunch of pieces. I'm 29 years old and I get all kinds of comment when I drive one of the A's like "Is that your father's car?" etc... It throws them off when I say "it's mine and no i'm not street rodding it!"

That looks good! I've got a start on a similiar trailer using a Model A front end someone years ago made a trailer from.

Steve, what about old Motorcycle places? Early(1903-1920s) Harleys and Indians used a narrow tire not unlike that of a bicycle...

What are you asking for the group? Or would you sell seperately? Thanks.

Cheaper paint like Omni is junk....... Those numbers are not IM numbers..... Very simply their paint coding system, not to be confused with the old Intermix set up. Sometimes you can cross reference the numbers, but this is more common with numbers for modern cars. In some cases PPG numbers won't convert to DuPont numbers. etc.... most of the IM numbers you find now are worthless as the tint bases and mixing ratios have changed.

Can you post some pics? I may be interested....

I had the same problem as you.... The Fairlane Forums were all for 60s cars... I've got '55 and '56 Fords. Traded off a '55 Ranch Wagon a few years back, now I'm kicking myself!

Valspar is a "value priced" paint, however quite a few people I've talked to have used it and liked it. I've never used it so I can't comment first hand! Larry who owns modelacolor.com is a good man to deal with- I buy all my House Of Kolor paints from him. I'd recommend the urethane paint, it's tougher than enamel and easier to maintain than lacquer.

What colors do you need? I have quite a few of the Modern equivalent #'s...

The mixing ratios should be on the side of the can. What brand of paint are you using? I have PDF's of 99% of the paint sheets out there. I'm an automotive painter by trade and I wouldn't buy any paint mail order. Stick with a name brand like PPG, Dupont, RM, Spies/Hecker etc... The lower end brands look good on the short term..... but not the long term!

Model T has a couple of different features from the later Model A bed. like the fender mounting spacers(curved piece the fenders bolt to) I have some pics somewhere i'll try and find. Mack Hills makes repro beds and bed parts. Look at Modelthaven.com in the pre war for sale they had a T roadster pickup advertised with some good photos of the bed.

A friend of mine has a couple of old Triumph Bonnevilles and some Nortons.... i always wondered why he had so many boxes of fasteners!!!!!!

The main thing that hurts these is the pot metal housings and pot metal manual over ride switch. Mick Isbell in California is a good source of hard to find Model A wipers. It's interesting to note that when new these wipers were only under warranty for 120 days!

Ford Blue is the correct color for Mustangs, Falcons, etc.. I'd pick up a Mustang resto guide, it'll have all the colors and fastener finishes in it. I don't recall the title of the book I have, but will look when I get to the shop tomorrow.

I think I know who you are talking about.... A certain place in TX who has a TV reputation(Auctions) but the couple of cars I've looked at and one a customer bought left a LOT to be desired. My customer had pretty much the same interaction with this dealer as did your friend.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Skyking</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 31Ford</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> If the color is a metallic then it's even trickier. </div></div> Almost impossible........! </div></div> True! I've had to blend almost the entire side and part of the hood once... It was one of those tri-coat systems used on the modern iron. One of the many reasons I don't work on modern cars-- also I don't own any metric tools.

I don't know if I would use a DA.... esp one that's locked in! The exceptions would be stainless fender skirts or other large part. Most stainless pieces are comprised of compound curves etc... Even 800 grit paper in single-action(locked DA) can creates issues you don't want. Do it by hand.