Rusty_OToole

The brake drum is rivetted to the hub. In normal service they are treated as one piece. If the brake drum needs to be replaced the rivets can be drilled or punched out and a new drum rivetted to the hub.

Saw a reproduction of an advertisement for a 1918 Austin once. Didn't know any survived. As this query is a year and a half old, maybe none did.

The tool came with a job lot of old tools purchased at an auction sale. It is about 6 inches long, made of thin tough steel, just large enough to slip over the stud. You might be able to make one out of a tube of the correct size if you can file some teeth in the end, then case harden it. I don't know if you could buy one from a Ford antique specialist or tool company.

1941 Packard Clipper for production cars.

I second the motion to check the Fluid Drive unit. For complete information do a search for Fluid Drive in the Chrysler and Dodge sections. This subject has been covered exhaustively many, many times. There are a couple of long threads from 2008 with everything you will need to know.

For some reason Canadian Fords used aluminum heads in the 30s and 40s while their American counterparts used cast iron. Possibly because Canada was a major manufacturer of aluminum and it was cheaper here. Canadian Ford heads were a "speed secret" in the US. You could mill them for more compression without overheating, almost like aftermarket aluminum heads. But they were factory stock parts, which was important in certain types of racing. In my tool box I have a special tool for removing heads that are frozen to the studs. It is a cutter in the shape of a steel tube, with saw teeth on one end and a tommy bar on the other. It was used for cutting the head loose from the stud. You slide it down over the stud and turn it . British Empire and later British Commonwealth regulations allowed goods to go from one country to another free of tax or import duty. For this reason many American cars found in Empire countries were actually made in Canada, or assembled from parts sourced from Canada.

Carburetor cleaner "dip" bucket. Here is one brand, your local auto parts stores should have it. Berryman® Chem-Dip® 0996 - Carburetor and Parts Cleaner | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Years ago I installed a new exhaust system on a 1970 Dodge /six pickup truck. Before I put it on, I gave it 2 coats of aluminum paint made for stove pipes. The exhaust was on there 10 years and NEVER rusted or gave trouble. The paint was dull and discolored for the first 2 or 3 feet but stayed on.

A thin coat of flat black barbecue paint will help throw off heat faster. I doubt it would make any difference to how your car ran or anything else.

Electrolysis is excellent for this purpose. It will remove rust without touching good steel or iron and without affecting machined surfaces. I know a local mechanic recently rebuilt a junkyard refugee, 1960s Dodge V8. This engine sat in a junkyard for years with no carburetor or distributor and was badly rusted inside. The mechanic put it in a big plastic drum with water and washing soda and connected it to a battery charger. He also had a battery in the circuit which I don't think is absolutely necessary but makes the process work faster. After 2 or 3 days he took the engine out, washed it off with clean water and it came apart easily.

In Canada it took quite a few years for the Japanese to make their mark. I believe they started selling in 1958 - 1960 on the west coast. Here in Ontario we got our first Japanese dealers in about 1966. I remember the Isuzu Bellel or Bellet as being the first, soon followed by Toyota and Datsun (not Nissan). They never made much headway until the first fuel crisis in the early seventies, even then it seemed only young people bought Japanese cars. It took 20 years for their original motorcycle and car customers to grow up, before they were really mainstream. A long time before they took over 10% market share.

Take the head off and look inside. If cylinders are rusted the engine will have to be rebuilt or at least overhauled. Slight rust pitting can be overlooked. Take out pistons, hone cylinders and replace rings. If cylinders are tapered or worn over .010 the cylinders will have to be trued and new pistons installed. Basically you need to diagnose first and see what needs to be done. Don't worry about electrolysis at this stage. Worry about whether the engine needs to be rebuilt. If it is really rusted solid it needs to come out. Yes it is possible to free up a rusted engine by electrolysis but you need a big container like a plastic barrel big enough to hold the whole engine block. Then all you need is a battery charger, some water and washing soda.

I don't know of anyone who has done this. I would suggest taking the seat out, cleaning and lubricating the seat tracks and get them working smoothly. Then install extra springs to pull the seat forward. If everything is working properly the seat is very easy to adjust. While you have it out it is possible to adjust the seat height and add extra springs if you like, to tailor the seat to your preference.

I heard that at one time the Big 3 in Australia were Holden, Ford and British Leyland. But British Leyland was put out of business by a strike in 1976 or 77. When a reporter asked the head of the auto workers' union " How could it possibly be in the interest of your members to put a third of the auto industry out of business?" he replied "can you imagine the power this will give us over Holden and Ford?" But in fact it lessened their power. The Japanese had been trying to get into the Australian market for 10 years but never made much headway because they had to build up a dealer network from scratch. Suddenly hundreds of dealers had nothing to sell. The Japanese went from 10% to 30% of the market overnight. Can anyone confirm or correct this?

If you have to use an off brand spare on a hub with pins just drill holes in the wheel. I have done this to fit Ford wheels or later model Chrysler wheels onto old Chrysler products. Including mag wheels. On Chryslers a 5/16" drill makes good pilot holes. A handy tool for changing tires is a shovel. Roll the tire onto the shovel, slide into position, and lift the tire onto the hub by lifting the shovel handle. This is especially handy for changing truck tires and heavy tires.

If your engine is burning oil the tailpipe will be coated with black oil and grease inside.

If you have a temp sensor test the temp of the engine while running. If the tube is shot the coolant will stream right up the front of the engine, the front of the engine will be cool and the back of the engine hot. If the tube is doing its job the engine will be more or less the same temp, maybe a small difference front to rear. The difference is marked enough you can feel it with your hand on the head.

45 - 50 was typical for the era. During WW2 I believe the speed limit was reduced from 50 to 30 or 35 to conserve fuel and tires. Back then 60 was a pretty good clip, also called "going like 60" or "a mile a minute" was fast driving. 70 would be REALLY burning up the roads. Top speed of your car, about 85. Dodges were generally well made and reliable at speed unlike Chev with its hit or miss oiling system. But, prolonged high speed driving can lead to pistons breaking up. Broken pistons very common on Dodge, Plymouth, DeSoto and Chrysler flathead sixes after long service ( 70,000 to 100,000 miles)

This has been discussed before. Others have had success in adding heavy ends to the gasoline. By heavy ends, I mean kerosene, stove oil, diesel fuel or furnace oil. They report easier starting, more power, cooler running, and less vapor lock problems. 10% to 25%. Diesel fuel up to 10% will not cause smoking but might make the exhaust smell "funny". Kerosene or stove oil are better especially if you are going to use 25%. As a general rule the octane should look like the compression ratio. Today's performance cars with 9:1 compression need 90 octane. Your old Chev with 5:1 compression needs 50 octane. This is not an exact ratio, but is fairly close. There are other factors that enter into it like combustion chamber design, engine speed, ignition timing etc. The main point is the old, low compression engines run better on lower octane fuel. If you do a search you should find several in depth discussions. PS a member who used a 1932 Buick as a tour car in the seventies, reported that he drove thousands of miles on 75% gas, 25% kerosene. The car ran better, smoother, cooler, and got better mileage. I believe the Buick had 4.5:1 compression.

Some have reported success washing with CLR to remove rust. It is surprising how much paint is left on a rusty area when you wash off the rust. Then polish by hand with fine polishing compound and protect the finish with a coat of wax. The wax is a must, and should be done immediately after polishing because the paint starts to oxidize right away. You can wax 3, 4 or more times building up a thick protective coat. I once waxed an old red Renault 9 times using ordinary car wax and the finish came up better every time. When I started it was so oxidized it almost looked like primer.

One of us is going to have to go look at the car and see how the rad is bolted in. You are closer than we are. PS put a sheet of cardboard (cardboard box) behind the rad when you are working on it so it doesn't hit the fan and get damaged.

Gyromatic was Dodge's name for Fluid Drive automatic. I suggest either someone got the trim piece off another car, or your car was converted to manual trans. I know some cars were changed over when they had transmission problems, if you had a manual trans car to strip parts off of the change over could be done in a day.

Possibly the last cars built in the Locomobile factory were Buckminster Fuller's Dymaxion 3 wheeled streamliners. This was in 1933 and 34.

I don't see why you would need such a high voltage rating for the condenser since they only use 6V or is there something I am missing? If you can't get the original condenser you can use one (capacitor) from any electronics supply, if it won't fit in the distributor you can mount it on the coil. Connect it to the other end of the wire that goes to the points, it will work just as well. Some English motorcycles had the condenser mounted on the coil as there was not room in the engine where the points lived. You could very easily put it near the coil with a wire to the coil and another to ground, in such a way that it could be removed for shows. It might also be possible to "disguise" a modern mylar cap by putting it in a metal plastic or cardboard tube and filling the end with a hot glue gun or with epoxy glue to resemble the old wax insulation, then paint it black and mount it on the coil. Many cars had such condensers for radio suppression after car radios came in. Electrolytic capacitors are marked for polarity. The bar or stripe indicates the negative lead, which is also shorter than the positive.

That is a very rare, very classy car. 52 Chrysler New Yorker came with the hemi head V8, Fluid Drive or Fluid Torque Drive automatic transmission, power steering (first car to have this) power brakes tinted glass power windows padded dash. No other car had all those features that year. No Rolls Royce, Mercedes, Cadillac or Lincoln. They even had disc brakes available as an extra cost option. Air conditioning was offered that year, but only on Imperial. That was the car Chrysler was selling against Cadillac, Packard 400 and Buick Roadmaster. Somewhat barge like to drive but very smooth and lots of power. Fastest stock car made in America. In January 1951 a New Yorker set a record of 100.13 MPH on Daytona Beach, straight out of the show room with minimal preparation and 400 break in miles. This was the first stock sedan to break 100 at Daytona since the 1937 Cord supercharged V8. The 52 is practically identical to the 51 model which was the first with the hemi V8. Old Cars Report lumps the 51 and 52 together. From the outside the only difference is the backup lights. They are separate on the 51, integrated with the tail light on the 52s. Old Cars Report price guide says #1 (perfect) $26,000 #2 (show car) $18,200 #3 (very good - looks great from 20 feet away) $11,700 #4 (Good - complete, driveable but needs help even from 20 feet) $5400 #5 (Restorable, more or less complete and no major rust out. May or may not run) $3120 #6 Parts car (damaged, rusted out or stripped of parts to where it is too far gone to restore) $1040,