Rusty_OToole

I tried to look up the meaning of Automobilforretning on 3 different translation sites and none of them heard of the word. Also tried forretning and mobelforretning with the same result. Very strange. Later.... Tried Danish and got "automobile business" for "automobilforretning" and "furniture store" for "mobelforretning". So it appears the pictures are from Denmark.

$600 sounds high for scrap but low for a Marmon. I would find out the price of scrap and buy it for that price. If you don't want it you can sell it or part it out. Worst case, no one wants it, you can get your money back for scrap.

They used to recommend replacing the filter every 5000 miles but given the difficulty of finding a replacement might as well use it until it is full. You can tell if it is full by the temperature, if there is oil circulation it will get hot after a trip, if it is full it will not get hot. With today's paved roads and limited driving a filter should last much longer than they did back in the 30s.

Modern full flow filters are not the same as the original partial flow. The old ones filter much finer, to where the oil stays clear between changes. I would prefer the replaceable cartridge type with the correct filter element.

Have you tried your local Lincoln/Ford dealer? They should be able to get one but it will cost $$$$$.

There are quite a few cars of the twenties and early thirties, with wood framed bodies, that are now falling apart and beyond restoring except by an expert. Just last week on the local Kijiji there was a twenties Franklin, complete but body in pieces, for under $3000. I don't see anything wrong with turning a car like that into a depression era truck although, perhaps not a Franklin.

The filters were very much the same and were sold as an add on accessory by various makers. You want one with the small lines on it. I don't remember the exact size but they were smaller than a pencil. This is the "partial flow" filter. Some engines had an add on "full flow" filter with much larger lines a bit bigger than a pencil. Recently I got a remote partial flow filter off an old fork lift truck in a junk yard. It may be that they are still sold by industrial supply outfits. Consult a repair manual for proper installation, there is a little more to it than just bolting one on. You might also get a genuine Chev one from the US or Canada, on one of the old car web sites or the well known auction site. I have a few but don't think I have a Chev one.

There may be some kind of hydraulic oil filter available from McMaster Carr or other industrial supply place.

As far as the charger goes if it is the same voltage the batteries won't know the difference. Electrics used different voltages depending how many batteries they had. If you need a charger, or help with repairs, you might try a fork lift dealer. They work on electric fork lifts all the time and the old ones are not much different from an electric car.

The fan is indeed made to cancel out noise. Each blade creates a sound as the fan turns. If they were all the same distance apart they would "sing" together and make a loud noise. By staggering them each produces a different note and they cancel each other out. The tricky bit is to have all 5 blades different distances apart, yet have the fan in balance. I would leave the fan alone. If you really need more air flow, try an electric fan ahead of the radiator. Many cars have these auxiliary fans in addition to the engine driven fan, especially German ones, and Lincolns. An easy way to add a return line is to use a fuel filter made for certain Japanese cars of the seventies and eighties. It has a small line coming right off the filter. This bleeds off air, and pressure, also allows a certain amount of fuel to circulate for extra cooling. The return line must go all the way back to the tank to do any good. You may want to add a restriction, such as a carburetor jet, in the return line if it bleeds off too much pressure.

Prewar transmissions were vacuum operated, postwar were electric. On the 41s there were 2 different semi auto transmissions, one for six cylinder and one for eights. My 1954 Motor manual has some information but the factory info would be best. The Imperial club web site has some old manuals. This guy has manuals at reasonable prices. Original, reprint or on CD. transmission Service Manuals - Shop, Owner, Maintenance and Repair | Faxon

If they ever catch wise to the search function I am out of a job lol.

Do you have the OHV Chev engine or the flathead Pontiac? The Pontiac had a built in filter, I don't know if you could fit an external filter. Chevrolet offered the external filter as an accessory. Other companies like Purolator, Wix, and Fram offered them as well. Millions were made and they turn up at flea markets all the time. Replacement filter elements are still available, the same filters are used on tractors, stationary engines etc. The Chev ones I am familiar with are from the fifties. They clamp on the intake manifold. Not hard to find in the US, in the UK I don't know. What did Bedfords and Vauxhalls use? They were GM products with 6 cylinder engines, they might have something you could use.

That is a sealed filter. No way to open it unless you cut it open. You were supposed to throw away the whole filter and put a new one on every 5000 miles. Every gas station and parts store sold them for a few dollars. Today, no way to get one unless you find an NOS one at a swap meet or from an antique parts vendor. Next time you go out for a drive, when you get back check the temp with your hand. If it gets hot it is still working. If it is full of dirt and no oil is circulating through it, it will be cold or barely warm. Best plan is to buy one of the replaceable cartridge filters. They were a slightly more expensive option and millions were used. They are common at flea markets, they look like your filter except they have a bolt on top and a removable filter element. The filter elements are still available from regular parts stores, they are used on tractors, diesel engines and older Mercedes Benz cars. If you get one from a 1937 - 1959 Dodge or Plymouth flathead six it will fit right on your engine.

Short answer: alcohol leans out the mixture and makes engines run hotter. To all you chemists out there, I know this is not 100% accurate. Feel free to write a 10000 word essay explaining in detail why I am an idiot.

There is a special tool but I usually pry them on with a big screwdriver. Hook the spring to the shoe, stick the screwdriver thru the end of the spring, put the screwdriver on the pin, pry the spring over until it slides down the screwdriver and onto the pin. There is a bit of a knack to it but once you get the hang of it you can put the spring on in 2 seconds.

A car like that can easily cost you $3000 - $5000 for tires, brakes, battery, wiring, caburetor, fuel pump, gas tank etc. Less if you do the work yourself, but you should not pay someone for the privilege of working on their car. That is if the engine, transmission and rear axle are OK with just a tuneup and oil change. It would be worth it, if will clean up halfway decent, to have a complete original car even if it does not look showroom new. I would pay a decent price for a car like that but bear in mind what it will cost to put it back in commission. If you have not done one before it is easy to be over optimistic and think you will have it on the road in a weekend.

Old Cars Report Price Guide says $1320 (parts car) $3960 (restorable)

That's too bad. Check your wiring for broken wires, shorts etc. The engine needs to idle down for it to shift (idle speed 400RPM). Trans needs to be filled with 10 motor oil or TDH tractor fluid, ISO 22 or 32 grade. Carb switches need to be hooked up and working.

Years ago a friend of mine put a 12V motorcycle battery in his 6V VW beetle so he could run a stereo. He said he put the battery charger on it once a week and left it to charge overnight. I'm sure with the gel cell and other improved batteries they have these days, you could run a lot of accessories with just a battery.

How did the factory build them? That would be the first clue I would look for. It DOES make a difference. 1921 Chevrolet springs are quite different from 1955 Cadillac springs. Some had grease, some had none, some had brass sliders, some had roller bearings, some had plastic or bakelite sliders. Some were wrapped with leather, some with metal gaiters, most had nothing. In the past I have put springs together with a strip of window screen and graphite grease but today they should have something better than that. 20s Chevs had NO shocks, NO sliders, and one leaf was put in UPSIDE DOWN to create extra friction for a shock damping effect. Not recommended for most cars but correct for 20s Chevs.

Do not trust the gas tank. Whatever was in there will be turned to varnish by now and could ruin your engine. Disconnect the gas line from the fuel pump and hook up a motorboat gas tank or similar. Do not change anything you don't have to. The more changes you make the harder it will be to diagnose and fix what's wrong. Start by checking oil, putting oil down the cylinders, turn over engine by hand, if it turns over ok try the starter, if it does not turn over STOP until you know why. If I had that car here I would have it eating out of my hand in a few hours or know the reason why. A few months ago I bought a 49 Chrysler (same motor and very similar car). I cleaned the points and spark plugs, got the ignition working, oiled the cylinders, poured a little gas down the carb and got it running in half a day. I don't know when it was last on the road but there was an insurance card in the glove compartment dated 1965. I have got similar motors running that I know had been locked away in the garage for 30 years. Basically make sure there is oil in it, get it turning over, make sure the spark plugs are working (you will likely need to clean the points) give it a little gas and it should run. O ya, it will likely need water in the rad, I don't like to add the water until it starts but I have a pail handy. You may also need to clean the carb but this not often necessary. It is a little advanced if you have not done it before.

Better buy a repair manual and go from there. If you have a specific question and I don't have to strain my brain too hard I will answer it.

Andy Bernbaum used to sell new ones or at least new skins.

4 psi is high for a carburetor system. 6 or 7 would be too high. If it is that high you should have a regulator on the carb to prevent flooding. 2PSI at the carb is plenty.