flackmaster

Correct. Its just not "cooperating" with your cautious, gentle, respectful approach. Not a matter of proving who's boss, but its gotta come out...usually a couple raps with the rubber hammer will unseat the gasket.

You are missing a rubber hammer. There are 4 visible bolts, two go through the cover to the block, and the other 2 hold just the cover. Someone has put some gasket cement, or oil has petrified, between the block and the pump. when removing the pump, know that the gear will be riding off the cam, so pull gently once loose. If you want to remove the distributor first, that eliminates one final friction point. (of course specifically noting rotor position as you know...)

purchase pending.

327 aluminum block?? I think we are confused, or at least one of us is! Please re-define. I have an aluminum 320 crank/crankcase 37 or 38, I'd have to dig it out and look....but first, I await further info from you. Thanks! DAF

photo noted, part located, reply emailed.

Can you advise part number, please. I may have...

Need to know what model your car is ... hoods are different. I should be able to come up with a hood. runningboards I gots. you are welcome to contact me directly, flackmaster at sbcglobal dot net DAF

just curious to know what you decide - if overdrive, know that I can provide not only the transmission, but all, or most all of the ancillary stuff.

4.09 with overdrive would be your most direct, driveable route. I changed to a 3.54 axle, no overdrive, and unless I am trying to keep up with Mark on the interstate, I feel a 4.09 with overdrive would be an equally satisfactory combination - that is what I drive in the 38 hotrod, but that has a 53-327 in it....way different motor. And would be pretty much a factory correct installation.

Add overdrive. No lower ratio that 3.90 that I can think of. Wait....what model? Different rears 6 & 8 cylinder. Another brain spark, the 3.54 ratio for the 8cyl axle. I don't believe they ever made it into re/production? Even so, back to my original comment, add overdrive. What? You already have overdrive?? Overdrives often had 4.36 or 4.30 factory gears, so at least you can drop down to 4.09/4.1 pretty easily? OK, enough typing...more information on what you have/want please.

Bud - have we not corresponded before? just zap me via flackmaster at sbcglobal point net and I will reply. GaryH - please advise the difference so I can properly find a correct home for these wheels, thank you.

Very Very difficult to find set of 4 wheels for sale. Not just for sale, but I want to actually sell them, thus, price is negotiable. $1200 for the set.

I am not seeing a downloadable form, having looked several times. can you please tell me again where it is? thank you.

Finally has made its way to Ebait, as of today.

Dug into the conv.hardware box, as shown. I don't have a '40 in the garage, so we will need further assistance to confirm what you need. I believe the 40 was the first year for the hidden latches?, The top corners of the cowl takes the casting with the pins, as well as the center casting with the pin, as opposed to the earlier style that uses the latch with the hoop? I believe the chromed arms at the top may be associated with the inner workings? The handle looks very much like a 40-42 junior exterior handle, but has a female recess to receive the shaft from the header bow linkage? As you can see, I have a set chromed, as well as some castings and castings for patterns...

I definitely have them. flackmaster at sbcglobal point net

The housing of the clock, such that the only portion visible once installed is that which is visible when the glove box door is opened, the back of the clock, is silver-grey, very similar to the dashboard background color. This is for certain based on a NOS clock I have in my archival collection.

I have 3 of these wheels, I think I am going to finally give up on finding a fourth! PM me your email address and I will zap you some photos and we can discuss how badly you want the$e.

I can help with #3. direct to me is flackmaster AT sbcglobal point net

Yeah, this post is old. So am I. I am certain I have a bare 37 - 282 engine. Must you have a 36 block? And for anyone else who pulls up this post, 385's are all gone. 320's, as of today I can still pull a few needles out of the haystack, depending on what you need 282's, yes. 110/6cyls. parts only. Postwar, still can provide straight 8's.

private message (pm) sent

Dashboard, complete. I do not have just the center plate. I have a good used chrome strip for the spare tire cover too.

Definitely not 36 Buick, or Mopar. I do not "think" it is 35 Buick because I have that in my book having the hubcap area recessed as relative to the outer edge of the rim. This is nearly flush with the edge of the rim, suggesting to me as not 35. I have no notes on 34, so I am interested to know if/maybe and how/why. I may also be confused as to dimensions/specifics of the different series of 34-45 Buicks, so I still am asking for more input on positively ID'ing this wheel. Thanks to all.

5x5" bolt circle, 3 3/8" hub hole, 4.5" bead width. Buick??? Yes, this will be for sale once identified. thank you.

Thank you, John and Joe, however, I would really prefer some unsuspecting, hard working person whose straight business motivation is work=pay, rather than a casual "I'll give a hand." Don likes to unload as soon as the big brown truck is parked to get it over with, and I'd also like to have a commitment for loading on Friday.