Brian_Heil

Any info or leads appreciated PM me Thx!

Tape. Lots of tape. Not to protect the rim, but to mask the tire and stem when you repaint the assembled unit. 😝😝😝

The lowest I can get my 1923 starter/generator output set to is 10 amps at cruising speed. No complaints, Jason Smith of AER rebuilt it and did a wonderful job. http://www.aerrebuild.com This 10 amps was still too much and caused me battery issues on day long tours. You may be okay for shorter trips and then the vehicle sitting. My solution on tour is to run the spot light which I updated with a 6V halogen lantern bulb. It draws 8 amps, is super bright, I now have a day time running light for safety and my net charge is a battery friendly 2 amps.

You are not only changing fan speed but ram air speed and water pump speed (volume) A house box fan in front of the grill at idle will answer your fan question.

After you get the clutch adjusted and I assume have the service brakes already adjusted, next is the parking brake. It needs to work and be as effective as the service brake. The first time you get caught in the rain and find out the external bands are worthless wet, you will thank me. This includes washing the car and backing down the driveway and being able to stop for the oncoming car or kid on a bike.

Unless they imported some hills to your part of Kansas, you aren’t going to tax that Buick or hurt anything. Get out and put some miles on it and get it sorted out. Better now, than on a tour with 100 ‘experts’ passing you by as you sit on the side of the road or on the back of a flat bed. Where’s a copy of that article where they used Buicks to run the Baghdad Express back in the day?

300 were made of each sign and sold by Terry. Note, it says the quantity in the lower left corner. Two others were also produced and available at the Centennial Meet by him.

Tested the heck out of that new narrow chain. Most go 300k+. They went 1200 hours on the dyno @ WOT. And we carried several over from one end of test to the next engine. No nylon sprocket teeth to fail and plug up the sump screen. There was an improvement to the chain tensioner/follower. Not sure if the 1990 had that.

Boy does this bring back memories Late in the development of the 1985 3.0L V6 in Flint (Buick) we had terrible coolant temperature cycling high to low to high and on and on in colder ambients. The temp gauge would swing end to end. I got assigned the task to determine the cause and fix it. Fast. Guessing it was the Winter of 84/85. We had new N cars in production. Long story short, the engine lacked any form of coolant bypass as designed. The bypass flow allows the thermostat to ‘see’ what the coolant in the engine is. Without this flow, the coolant is stagnant until all heck happens within the engine and a boil occurs and the thermostat opens violently. Then the cold coolant in the previously stagnant radiator rushes into the engine and the thermostat slams shut and the fun starts all over again. We determined that a 1/4 inch diameter flow past/near the thermostat was the minimum flow to solved the issue but it also reduced engine cooling performance hot since this bypass flow coolant never went to the radiator. It also slowed down heater warm-up performance cold. Some engine designs allow this flow through the heater core and then out to the radiator but that will impact ac performance with hot coolant in the core next to the ac evaporator in the hvac box. And the N car could not take the hit in ac performance We then had to adjust the radiator size due to the new bypass flow not going to the radiator. Off to Lockport NY and the Harrison Cooling Tunnels for hot work. I did the cold work on I-75 night and day. The result was an added bypass flow circuit from the intake just under the thermostat to the front cover water pump inlet and one of those short little elbow hoses we all hate to work on. But we also designed and sourced in just weeks a dealer fix for the problem for the early production cars. That was a bit of a Frankenstein but it worked and the dealers ordered them like crazy. We checked the 3.8L MFI (pre 3800) and found it had the same issue to a lesser extent so it got the fix too and we made many of the parts common. They also added coolant bypass testing to our Bill of Design and made sure the soon to come 3800 had no such problems. I was still in the Test Department back in the Experimental Lab and the Design guys were not to happy w my findings or their missing the issue. True to form I got promoted to help design the 3800 and was consulted on the cooling and bypass design. I was 26 and the senior engineer designing the system was over twice my age. They thought they would see what I was made of and had me design the entire brand new 3800 balance shaft system. Clean sheet. What a great job that was. And now you know how I spent the Winter of 84/85 in Flint 7 days a week 12 hrs a day for 3 months. I was married in June of 84. The boss was none too happy until she saw my paycheck. 1/4 hole bypass is all you need.

The BCA has Centennial Awards bought, and paid for, and in a storage room, but then the Board voted to discontinue the program of handing them out, but now, this same board is going to get in the museum business?

Also check the choke function. Is it possible there is no air flow to the engine? Choke closed dead shut? Don't think you have the newer barrel style choke but had a guy here with a choke rod that fell off, he was tuning the choke knob all over the place but it never moved the choke. You can also install the square rod used on these in four positions but only one is correct He connected the rod (correctly) and the engine started and ran fine.

Still waiting to hear if you can get it to bark with no choke and starting fluid.

Nytrophyl float is a closed cell structure it can't get a pin hole leak. I had Terry pull the carb cover and check for float function and level and flow. All good.

Personally I don’t think there is anything wrong with it, it ran fine for 30 minutes I think you flooded it on the re-start and then started taking things apart and lost all the settings where it ran well Stop tearing it apart and get it back setting wise where it ran well No choke. Use the starting fluid

Atta Boy Mark!

And, since someone may ask, you don’t want to run without a ballast resistor as you will arch at the points and get incorrect dwell and eventually burned points. And the higher current flow will lead to premature coil failure.

There are two types of 6V coils typically available One has an internal ballast resistor and will be marked as such on the coil. The other does not If you maintain an external separate ballast resistor you will want to use the latter. You don’t want to run two resistors. Your voltage across the points and coil will be too low and the coil will not produce a high enough voltage.

You have found the right place. Several very knowledgeable 1925 owners active here. Two suggestions. Keep your post somewhat specific. Broad posts get broad answers. Pictures help. Welcome to the fun!

A big thank you also to Larry Di (the Other Larry) who supplied those donor discs pictured above. I had some but he had some really nice ones. Betterer is gooder.

10 mile test drive. Shifts like butter. Very happy. Time for an oil change and lube. Then detail for the two tours coming up. Tallyho!

OK. Check thru the inspection window that your throw out bearing is not in contact with the pressure plate. I’m setting that as I type. For all the trouble the transmission gave me, the torque tube and axle went right in. Big floor jack under the differential and a 1 inch wide strap around the front of the torque tube hooked to the cherry picker through the floor. Worked like a charm. Leafs attached. Front torque tube attached. Rods hooked up and only thing left is tires and clean up. Leaving the floor off for clutch adjustments and to make sure throw out bearing is not in contact with pressure plate. Brakes look like they could use an adjustment too.

How has the disc material performed seeing how I have the same stuff?

Rebuilt clutch in. Transmission in. It fought me the whole way. Pedals and battery box in. Axle / torque tube and tires tomorrow. Brake rods. Back it out and clean up 25 years of grease, dirt, chunks of lining and disc ears that were all in the bell housing. Been cool the last two days. Great weather for working in the garage. How I did this 25 years ago standing with a foot on each door sill and a loop of chain bolted to the trans to wiggle it in, I’ll never know. Borrowed the neighbors nice cherry picker this time and the booger still fought me. Then after it knew I had, had enough, it just popped in.

The new pack ready to go.

The donor discs that got cleaned up and re-lined. Edit Thanks to Larry Di!