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Everything posted by Brian_Heil

  1. The same Champion plug also goes by 589 I believe this is the old nomenclature since the year old plugs I have in my 1911 are W89D
  2. Wow, 13 years ago. I think we (I) have had some learnings and some plugs have gone out of production since then. I would revise my past statement to agree that 0.035 is a better gap than 0.025. If you have a weak coil, replace it. The coil mentioned above did finally fail. Champion W89D spark plugs are also the best for not fouling and are readily available. I am running these in both my 1911 and 1923 Buicks. Most importantly in the 1923 since it has original pistons with rather high oil consumption and these plugs still run clean.
  3. Why do you think the dipstick is too long? Agree also on the poor cotter pins on the rods. You want them as large a diameter as possible and very short tails, tapped tight to the nut. No movement / looseness or they will fatigue. Listen to Hugh on that screen also. Is the forward oil pressure line blocking the squirt path of the front hole to trough? Fill each trough prior to bringing the pan into place the final time. Do several fit trials dry until you have the acrobatics it has to go through understood.
  4. Don’t the holes point down to fill each dipper trough? I’m more familiar with the 1923 6 and each trough is filled by a dedicated pipe.
  5. This part now listed in the Buick Buy/Sell Forum. Thank you Bill McLaughlin!
  6. Here is a picture of a 1929 Buick steering wheel I was able to find on the internet. Sill waiting to hear from Bill McL.
  7. Let’s have your neighbor, Brother McLaughlin chime in.
  8. Not sure how you found this. I’d still be looking. Must be some of that good Karma you have saved up due to all the parts you’ve helped me with.
  9. All in good fun Buick Brother.
  10. Pretty sure Detroit has not moved, and is in the Southeast corner of the state.
  11. Can someone help identify this? Bill McLaughlin? Came with some other Buick parts I needed. Too new for me. Once we figure out what it is, I’m open to offers. Somebody needs this. Great condition.
  12. The starter pedal itself can need lube as it goes through a collar near the floor and the cross shaft has two pillow blocks that need lube too.
  13. Agree. Open up that right side rear mount that also has a gear set and small one-way clutch in there and clean things out. Mine was full of nasty old hard grease. Also the small arm on the passenger side end of the cross car shaft starter linkage has a set screw to adjust when the small arm engages the SG. You can change this position to see if that helps. Also make sure the bull nosed large pin ~1 inch diameter that goes in and out of the SG that lifts the brushes can stick if not lubed.
  14. Is your starter motoring (spinning slowly) before you attempt to push down when you flip on the ignition? If not motoring, the gears won’t line up and engage and the pedal won’t go down Most common cause is worn brushes causing S/G not to motor and often not show a charge either when running. The three small brushes on the smaller diameter commutator. Next is weak springs holding these brushes against the commutator or a dirty commutator. Commutator should be bright copper.
  15. Scratch that. Not sure why and it makes no sense but both designs have the same part number.
  16. Is Part Number 33754 (the second impeller) in any of the parts books indicating is was released for production?
  17. There is delta P Terry W or there would be no flow. Don’t confuse system pressure as in a closed system with delta pressure created by the pump which in turn creates flow. I spent half of 1983 designing and testing impellers for the Buick 3.0L which carried over into the 3800. The impeller looked very similar to the top drawing you shared. Has anyone seen an impeller in a Buick like the second drawing? I have not. Perhaps it was a drawing for a prototype tested and then rejected?
  18. I have a dash light available also. Missing the hood but the rest is there. PM me if interested.
  19. On any NOS set of points you are thinking of buying, do a careful inspection of the fiber rubbing block and small rivets. Every set I looked at, at Hershey a year ago were cracked and the fiber material was breaking down due to age in this area. You almost need a jewelers loupe. This was the failure mode of my points 20+ years ago. I built up the sides of the fiber rubbing block with JB weld. Still doing fine all these years and 40,000+ miles later.
  20. John Believe you were around for part of my 1485 mile road trip around Lake Michigan. My 1923 Buick never missed a beat. I do own a trailer for my 1911.
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