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Everything posted by Brian_Heil

  1. Helping a friend of a friend’s widow. Gentleman in Nebraska sent his S/G out for a rebuild and then passed away. Family looking for leads as to shops he may have sent it to, to track it down. Any and all names of shops that he may have sent it to appreciated. The family will do the leg work if they have the business names. By any chance if someone has a 1916 S/G available, they would be interested in that also. Thank you in advance.
  2. A modern electric starter and ring gear is possible on the 165 cu in engine with 2 spd trans Here are pics of the setup on my 1911 Model 33 which is the same powertrain as your Model 10.
  3. Just the axial position of the large diameter tapered nose lift pin. 3rd brush position rationally for amount of charge desired.
  4. I'm here, been on vacation. Correct, silent clutch new for 1923, no sprag to click Does it charge when running is first question? Most often when there is an issue with no motoring, it is a problem with the charging brushes or dirty commutator. And as such it won't motor nor will it charge, hence my question. If not charging when running also, push down on the brushes with a pencil or similar device to increase brush contact pressure and note change in charging rate if any. If it increases, you have worn brushes that are too short to allow the spring to apply enough pressure or dirty commutator. If no change, check for dirty contacts on the back of the combination switch as noted above. Commutator and switch contact points should all be bright.
  5. When the Wife catches you using the dining room table for a work bench, you won’t have to buy any hides, she’ll tan yours.
  6. Is the starter motoring, in the case of a 1920, clicking, when you turn on the ignition but before you depress the starter pedal?
  7. Someone got a nice car. Jim, please pass along my contact info to the new owner. Happy to help. Thx!
  8. A safe practice every Spring before first run is to ‘tunk’ all the tops of rocker valve ends with a nylon hammer to make sure none of the valves froze on you over the off season. I’m not sure why, but caged valve Buick’s have a propensity to seize after prolonged storage. When you do your valve job, add lifesaver sized felt washers to each valve stem. Buick did this from the factory the last year for caged valves, 1923. McMaster Carr carries an assortment. You will have to soak them in oil to get them to stretch over the stem. Lube them often.
  9. The foot section cut off a pair of the wife’s old pantyhose captured by the clamp in the upper radiator hose is a cheap easy way to capture junk. Easy and effective. You will be amazed what’s traveling around in your system. They sell an expensive filter that has too large a mesh. Try this.
  10. Do a compression check before you tear things down. It’s a very durable engine. You may not find all that much out of order. Clean the pan and oil pump, rebuild the valve cages, inspect and set the bearings and you could be good to go. Watch, count and record your shims on the main and rod caps.
  11. I went online just now and read all the current BOD bio candidate articles. Funny thing, election promises…. 39+ years of working with the finest men and women you could imagine at Buick Product Engineering. That’s my datum and that’s my Buick expectation. This one did make me chuckle. Be careful what you wish for as my Mother used to say.
  12. Put your coping saw with a fresh blade in your vice and hold the material in your hand. If you have a small hobby band saw better yet.
  13. Nitrophyl is the material. Carves up, files and sands very easy. It’s a high tech closed cell dense foam impervious to modern fuels. All your favorite old car parts houses sell it in a block ready for you to whittle away. ~$6. I did my 1923 2 years ago and probably 20 years too late. Great results. Give yourself enough clearance to the carb bowl wall. On my first attempt mine was hanging up.
  14. My first thought is are we distantly related? Ha. My expertise ends at 1923 but there are others here who are very knowledgeable. My only suggestion while you are waiting is to backwards flush the radiator and also backwards flush the block and see what comes out. Do the flushing separately so you don’t send gunk from one to the other. Here in the US we use a garden hose. Assume you have the same available? Once both are flushed and hopefully you get lots of gunk out and before you reconnect the hoses. Plug the bottom radiator outlet with a rag and fill the radiator with water to the top. Leave the cap off. Remove the plugging rag. You should get a very large exit stream as big as the outlet and maybe a 1/4 meter long flowing out. If so, this would suggest the radiator is not plugged up and all the tubes in it or at least most are flowing. A good thing. Please keep us posted.
  15. Jeeps used a canister for decades after WWII. All of the major Jeep outlets carry a nice one with the filter cartridge still readily available https://www.kaiserwillys.com/fram-style-oil-filter-canister-assembly-kit-fits-46-64-truck-station-wagon-jeepster?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3JqJw6Sk8QIV8G1vBB09ZwjCEAQYBSABEgJMDPD_BwE https://walcks4wd.com/search.asp?keyword=Oil+filter+ I’ve dealt with Walck’s for years. Good folks. They sell the decals for the filter housing also.
  16. Is the timing advancing with RPM? As in are the advance weights free and lubed, springs hooked up and everything under the breaker plate is doing its job? Jazz the throttle with the timing light hooked up and confirm it advances ~30 degrees and returns.
  17. Reading it and doing nothing and not reading it and doing nothing give the same result. The weak hide behind the former in hopes of being taken for the latter. They’re reading.
  18. Thank you for having made that offer to the Board Bernie. More interesting background. if you think about it, the Board could have made a motion and voted to accept your kind offer and have a free recognition program but instead voted to cancel what could have been a free program. Perhaps some of those who voted no will reconsider at a future meeting.
  19. A leaking heat riser tube would be diluting the charge with inert exhaust gas. I know you checked it for rust holes but could it be leaking in some other way? And I’m sorry to disagree (still) with all the comments about fuel starvation. When you lack fuel, for whatever reason, and open the throttle, the excess air/oxygen since there is not enough fuel present to consume it causes an immediate lean mixture and a lean mixture pops and bucks. It does not provide smooth weak power. And I still think # 1 and 2 plugs are trying to tell you something as well.
  20. Thank you gentlemen for the background information. Perhaps I should not have used the word ‘logic’ in my initial post. Someone was kind enough to send me a recent HCCA article on their Century Plaque Program. 1,898 Recognitions presented to date. Seems the HCCA is capitalizing on the concept, growing engagement, making members happy. Why they don’t even require membership. They use it as a recruitment tool. Logical.
  21. Or set everything to 0.012 and go find a hill?😁
  22. If you have yet to touch the lash, can you repeat this, get the no hot re-start and quickly run a compression test?
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