Brian_Heil

Yes it does Mark.

Agree on the leaks but if you use the ‘tickler’ button on the top of the carb bowl cover to flood the bowl to ease starting, you hold it down until it leaks out around the button so the trough catches the leak.

Drip trough that goes under carburetor. Keeps leaking fuel off the exhaust takedown pipe.

Complete carburetor $250 + shipping PM me for details

A gentleman contacted me looking for same. Please PM me if you have one or any leads. Thx!

A gentleman contacted me looking for same. Please PM me if you have one or have any leads. Thx!

https://www.aerrebuild.com

That’s what the heavy washer that comes with the tool in the picture is for.

The Buffum Tool

Try to remove his head with an iron bar? Didn’t Phineas Gage try that method?

https://www.mooreparts.com/empi-15-2012-classic-vintage-vw-bug-roof-rack-fits-all-years/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9KeApqrz9AIVWBGzAB3YuwIVEAQYAiABEgIRifD_BwE This add comes with dimensions

https://aapistons.com/products/vw-type-1-roof-rack?variant=742290151&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&cmp_id=204697570&adg_id=16306239610&kwd=&device=m&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIz47g2Knz9AIVjBPUAR2UHgbREAQYAiABEgLrMvD_BwE Maybe find one like this? Most modern ones are too flat Perhaps modify this one?

Food for thought on fuel boost pumps to aid starting. I don’t set the choke until I see full pressure on the oil pressure gauge while cranking cold then I set the choke and let it start now that I have oil where it needs to be. No need for a booster pump, the mechanical pump has plenty of time to prime the system. A carryover from my old hotrod days when we had an ignition kill switch, it was the last thing we flipped on after we had oil pressure. Don’t be in such a hurry to start your engine.

I agree and would not (I’d go so far as to say never) volunteer to hand start someone else’s engine. No thanks. I still 40+ years later shave with my left hand because I spent a year with a shattered right hand from playing hockey right after college. I’ve hand started my ‘23 twice in 26 years. Carefully. The 1911 is 165 cu. in. and meant to be hand cranked. It does have an electric starter added and a high tension impulse mag.. And I know exactly where the timing is set and check the lever twice before stepping out front. I will say there is some mechanic’s pride and satisfaction to give the crank on the 1911 a quarter turn pull and have it jump to life on a tour while other’s rigs, who are always paying close attention, are not up to the task. That nice start came with hours of hard work to have everything sorted out. Showing off? Why, yes. Take all the good days you can get with a brass car. The Brass Gremlins are just waiting for their opportunity to bite you somewhere else.

Dear Santa …😁

What’s the big deal anyway?

I do chuckle about this post and cages rotating. Anyone who has had the ‘pleasure’ of trying to remove cages can concur that they don’t move let alone rotate. Frozen is the term that comes to mind. One of the most difficult things I have ever had to unstick. Pay attention to rotating upon installation. Check the alignment mark you made above the center of the ‘bird hole’ once you have the locking ring tight. An old timer trick I was taught to remove stuck cages after complaining about the difficulty seems counter intuitive but with the piston in the stuck cage cylinder up all the way, remove the jam nut, key, spring keeper and spring. Put a parts tag wire through the valve key hole so you don’t let the valve drop. If you do, don’t worry the piston being up will catch it before you lose it and you are going to pull the cage anyway. With the spring, jam nut etc removed, put a hardened socket over the cage where the spring seats roughly the same size as the removed spring and give it a good rap with a hammer. This breaks the carbon that is locking the cage to the bottom of the cage bore. I was skeptical at first but it really works. It also feels good to give that stuck bugger a rap. Ha. The long since departed Flint mechanic said he removed more cages than he could count with this method.

Never had one rotate in 40,000 miles and 25 plus years of touring but I’ve helped plenty that were installed wrong or rotated upon installation. Mark the cage so you know you did not rotate it. Once locked down it’s not going anywhere

Pulling cages is far easier

Any bent push rods from stuck valves? Buick caged valves like to stick if not kept lubed.

Check lash first on low cylinders, you could be holding valves open with no lash. Next if lash is correct Pull the valve cages on the suspect cylinders. Start with the exhaust cages. Agree with Mr Shaw.

Early in the ownership of my 1923 Model 45 we had a bitter cold snap. -17F in the attached garage. Car had not been started in 3 months. It started on the 3rd pull of the crank. That was good enough for me. Whatever year the BCA National was held in Rochester, MN several of us took the SS Badger Ferry across Lake Michigan. 'Somebody' left the lights on in the bowels of the ship. 4+ hours later and the last cars in, us, were the first ones out in Wisconsin. Everyone was bottled up behind me. Out came the luggage and the rear seat in a flurry to find the crank. Started on the first pull with the deck hands cheering.

https://www.championautoparts.com/Technical/Tech-Tips/Spark-Plug-Torque-Recommendations.html Put the anti- seize on the valve cage, cage seal and cage nut. I’ve never applied it to a spark plug.

I’m a long term 1923 Buick owner and happy to assist the new owner. I knew the the late previous owner and this car.

Oh I’ve done it once before. Let’s hope it goes as well a second time. 25 years ago I put some pretty nasty used discs in. All I had. This time I’m way ahead thx in part to you.