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Brian_Heil

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Everything posted by Brian_Heil

  1. Yep. Here is a cross section of a similar seal that I used.
  2. Here’s a pic that shows that modern trunk seal in place on the cowl.
  3. No dogs to cat on the 1923. There is a straight edge that comes up from the cowl to the windshield bottom frame. A modern bulb cross section trunk seal fits right on this half inch high straight edge and seals great to the bottom of the frame. Cost me $2 at the bone yard.
  4. Some of the light stuff. The Buick got so wet the wood of the body started to swell and I swore the car grew a half inch in length as doors popped open that always latched.
  5. A rain story. At the VMCCA Nickel Tour in Heath, Ohio a few years back it rained for 6+ days straight. Roads closed, detours and changes made to routes, several folks just said, great to see you all but headed for home after a day or two. On Wednesday my wife got a call that her best friends mother was in the hospital and it did not look good. My wife headed home with the tow rig in the rain, I stayed behind. So did the rain. At least that's the story she gave me. After Thursday, I threw in the (damp) towel and pointed the 1923 Buick north, in the rain for the 230 mile drive home. With washouts, closed roads and bridges and detours it took me over 12 hours and the rain never stopped. Pulled into a drive through of a bank that had an overhang to take a break and the teller on the intercom and I joked how long she would let me stay there before I had to open an account. Did the same thing at a small country church with no one home. Also at a small funeral home where they came out and looked at me and the back seat where I had the luggage covered up like maybe they where going to get some business. I went through water over the tops of the running boards dozens of times. When you stopped the water would run off the roof onto the hood and through the center hinge and hiss like heck on the hot manifold and steam would billow. The Buick never stalled. I have a pic on my phone I will find and post.
  6. Bob and I are saying the same thing. When its raining, I have both halves shut tight. I'm already wet because I had to put the top up in the rain. And I'm wishing I had a heater and side curtains.
  7. How mine is installed is with the U channel on the lower glass and the single lip on the outside of the upper glass This permits tilting the top edge of the lower glass forward and the bottom edge rearward giving a wonderful breeze to the chest on down but protecting your face.
  8. Turns out I already have what Tom has so this engine is still available and Tom is first rate to work with.
  9. Yes. Commutator should be bright. Pushing on the back of a brush with a non conducting dowel to increase contact pressure will prove windings are good, just poor brush or contact. Does it start to motor (with ignition on) when you push down on one? As the brushes wear they get shorter and lose contact pressure from the spring. The back side brush is the tough one to get to. Take the bottom brush plate off to gain access to the 3rd brush. For the top brush, disconnect the brush operating link from the insulated post. How does that insulator look? Many are bad or missing causing a ground out. Swing the top brush arm toward you once you have the link off this insulator to access the brush screws. Top and bottom brushes are a bit thicker than the third brush. The two really big brushes are the starter brushes. Do you have the pic of the S/G in the 1923 Ref Book to follow along?
  10. Thx Buick Brother. Looking forward to the pics.
  11. Welcome Philip! I’ve had my 1923 Model 45 for 25 years. Let me know what questions you might have. Great group here.
  12. Had the little spring loaded carbon center contact plunger fall out of the distributor cap when checking for something else. Actually found it.
  13. I had dirty contacts on the back side of the combination switch, also a failed external ballast resistor. Hot wiring the coil helped me trace down both. Poor grounds as mentioned suck all the voltage when cranking and there is not enough left to fire the ignition. The cheap foreign made twist knob battery cut off switches are famous for this. Act just like a dirty battery post connection. Ask me how I know.
  14. Most modern spark plugs are taller than originals. Watch for grounding to the spark plug cover. Add boots.
  15. You should be able to lock up both rear brakes and skid the tires on dry pavement. That’s all you are going to get. I wasn’t kidding about the parking brake either. It needs to work as well as the service brake and not be full of leaked axle lube. When the bands are wet , like when you just wash your car, you will get to the end of the driveway and have nothing and will be reaching for that hand lever to stay out of the neighbors begonias.
  16. I’m guessing ‘farmer’. The paint is slopped on and thick like they were trying to protect things and had lots of red paint to spare and a mop of a brush. Heck, it worked.
  17. Adjusting the points on an early Buick is a bear. That tiny locking nut is hard to get to. With your meter telling you where you are, tweak the points arm (as in slightly bend) with a pair of needle nose players and you can dial it right it. I won’t tell if you don’t tell.
  18. Easy enough to check. When you only have rear brakes, you need to make sure they are set up correct. That goes for the parking brakes too. When the bands get wet the parking brake is all you have left.
  19. Not the greatest pic. I’ve marked up where mine were cracked. This is my spare rear axle assembly that resides under my 2500 Suburban for storage. I’m doing a one arm plank push up with the phone in the other to take this. You owe me Buick Brother. Ha. There has to be a story why all the major donor parts off a 1923 Model 45 were painted red. I just wish I knew it. I bought the entire drivetrain from a guy doing a street rod conversation years ago.
  20. Yes Inspect the cast arm from the axle out to point C/D About midway along the arm, both of mine were cracked just forward of that round cast feature.
  21. Check the long cast steel reaction arm that goes along the inboard rear side of the backing plate that holds the block for C/D in the Dyke pic. Both my arms were cracked when I bought my car. Took the expert welder from Buick Engineering in his home shop to grind grooves at the fracture and use the correct weld rod due to them being cast steel. Still doing fine and that was 25 years ago. The backing plate rivets were all loose too due to them doing the work of the cracked reaction arms. Had to drill them all out and use larger grade 5 bolts and lock the nuts in place with a center punch.
  22. The distributor cam lobes are well worn on my 1923 6 cylinder but uniformly so. I can still get the correct degrees of dwell with a dwell meter and pay no attention to the point gap that results in the correct dwell. If you can get the correct dwell, you will be fine. Dwell angle, is dwell angle.
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