alsfarms

For those interested in earlier Riker truck original advertisements. EBAY has a couple of new listings. Al

Hello Joe, I have never heard of "whiskering" ! Can you provide any more hints or procedures that I should utilize when applying finish to the box? Before starting that process, how smooth should I have sanded the surface to be finished, 180, 360, 600 grit? Then do the "whiskering"? Or do I stop at 60 or 80 grit before starting the "Whiskering"? Al

Hello Mike, Your cleaning up flywheels look nice. If you want to remove some of the sharp profile left after from the cutting process, use slow speed and simply use emory cloth under your finger, holding pressure against the machined surface, to smooth up the profile. Al

Please share what you learn and use as a resolution on your parts problem. I ended up building all new shackle bolts for the Locomobile. Al

I am guessing that your wet/heating to dry method is meant to open the grain to accept the stain and finish? Just enough heat to dry but not scorch the wood? Sounds like you have some definite experience with wood refinishing! Al

Maybe you have seen this You Tube posting of the of the Locomobile Old 16. This can't help but get your attention if you are a Locomobile guy or simply just an old car guy. Al

I have studied a bit regarding the 1917 Riker worm drive truck sales literature currently for sale on EBAY. Riker was quite a truck, muscular for sure. If you have a Riker truck, this piece of literature would sure be a nice addition to you collection! If I had truck pieces, I would certainly be on this EBAY auction. Al

Nice little car. I would encourage you to post a few more pictures. That should create interest in those fellows that may have parts to pony up in you behalf. I hope you find what you need and move along on your goal. Al

Hello Bob, How close is your car to running? I assume that the pictures above are to show what you need? Al

I will do some serious thinking..... Al

Hello Chandler 29, Would you share a picture of the engine here? I am curious about the design, if it followed very closely with Lozier or not. Al

1909 Locomobile 4 cylinder touring car for sale currently....... Al

If anyone is looking to purchase a turn key 4 cylinder Locomobile, here is your chance. The car is located in central Calif. and has had much work completed to make it a reliable tour car. The owner is a decent guy also! If you want more information, do a search for 1909 Locomobile for sale and the current ad should show up on HMN, I will post a picture here. This car is a Touring car, not a toy tonneau. Al

Hello Joe! Man...... aluminum can be a sticky mess to machine sometimes. Sad to see your torment but thanks for sharing! Looks like you have a good resolution to your dilemma. Seems we have to do what we have to do sometimes, and that is your case. Sleep well and attack again tomorrow. Persistence will make you the victor. Al

Hello, Terry, how do I know a "ggod" Spar Varnish from a "so-so" Spar varnish? Is it brand name or other? Al

I will need to study up on the characteristics of "Spar" varnish. I am guessing that it does not dull or go cloudy in the sun and that it is water repellent? How clear does it go on? Al

My plans for this coil box would be for it to be an accurate representation of what would have been used/found in the era from 1900 to 1915. I want the color to be a nice rich honey red color, protecting the box from the blazing sun and dry heat that we have here in the west. Should it get some rain on it, I do not want it to show water spots or other dulling. Paint is a no...... I know that Polyurethane repels water nicely but I am not sure about the UV qualities. What are the thoughts here? Al

I thought I would share a bit of wood work I completed for a 2 cylinder Cleveland Rear Entrance project. This was my first "kinds" sophisticated wood working project. This is a finger joint coil box designed to fit the more common sized Model T Brass top coils. It turned out good for a beginner. My question here, what does this collective group suggest for a finish? Al

Good For You. That pump is certainly taking shape! Joe, here are a few pictures for a diversion for your water pump day. I need to select a finish and get on with it! The wood I chose is Red Oak. I am happy the way this coil box turned out. Now back to the pump. Are you going to test run teh pump to make sure of flow with no heat or rubs? Al

Some days are like that! But some days e3verything "clicks". A few years ago, I took an adult Ed. night class on wood working. I wanted to build a perfect fitting two cylinder wooden coil box that would fit the readily available Model T coils. No big deal huh.... We I am a metal worker, not a wood worker. I came up with my measurements, messed around with the set-up to cut finger joints and was ready to give it a try. The instructor bet me that I would mess up and end up building two, one junk and one keeper. That comment bugged me! (I am not used to planning for failure from the start. I do know that failures do happen however and I know how that goes). I ended up having lots of fun building the coil box and am very happy to say that I only built one box and it is a keeper. Now like Mike has said, I have much more confidence with my wood working skills. Boy am I off the subject of the Mitchell water pump, forgive me. I am also going to give you a small break in the action and post a picture of the two cylinder coil box I built. It is ready for the electrical fixtures, switch and mounting hardware. While you are taking a break from the Mitchell water pump, share your thoughts on the best modern finish to use on the wood before any hardware is installed. I am thinking Polyurathane. Al Pictures by and by.....

Hello Mike, Looks like you are having fun improving the Humberette engine. I actually doubt that the original engines were dead on. .005 is close. For our times and seasons, this is your opportunity to make the engine as good as we can to our 2019 standards. Like Joe, I would take a "kiss" cut to remove the .005 from the face of the flywheel. Also, I do not think I would attempt the face off your your bolt up hardware at the same time. I am sure you would end up with some uncontrollable chatter that your cutting tool simply could not tolerate. I would address the run-out only the face off the bolt heads in another specific operation. Al

Hello Mike, I have been dealing with some significant health issues of my 93 year old mother and simply have not been able to keep up with the automobile chats. I have just a few moments so I thought I would compliment you on the good variety of machine tools you have. The quick change pieces make milling machine work more pleasant for sure. I also agree that the 4 jaw chucks are much more able to repeat a very close center, (as good as the operator makes it and has the skill set). A three jaw is OK if you are just doing a one off fix and do not need to keep a dead on center for several processes, as in Joe's project. My 9" South Bend lathe I tend to keep the 3 jaw chuck in it for quick and easy projects. My 16" Lodge and Shipley, I leave in the 4 jaw chuck. Yes, I do simply plan to take a few extra moments to center up the work piece every time, but I have grown accustom to the extra time and certainly do like the end results. Keep up the good work Mike. Do you have a resolution to your connecting rod issue? Al

Nice radiator. Have you put water to it to see if it has frost damage to the core?

Nice work Joe..... Al

My 1909 Locomobile uses straight side tires in conjunction with 25" Firestone wheel hardware and as above mentioned 34 x 4.5 tires.