carbking

The Carter AFB/AVS were 0.016~-0.022 Jon.

Before deciding to install bushings, I would suggest: (A) use a dial indicator to determine actual clearance ( determine the "design tolerance" for the Carter AFB, and compare that to actual You might be surprised. Jon.

Kits are available: THE CARBURETOR SHOP / DODGE APPLICATIONS Jon.

Bob - original pumps were leather. Due to cost, the new cheaper kits are made from rubber which is at best questionable in modern fuel. The better kits still use leather. Quite common for the rubber pumps to act as you indicate. One other possible issue: since (except for Carter) rubber (neopreme) has been the norm for probably 40 years, many are unaware that leather cups should be oiled with a light machine oil prior to installation. Failure to oil should not cause the issue you mention, but may result in the pump acquiring wear if the operator works the throttle several zillion times prior to installation on the car. Jon.

Jon (like your name spelling ). As noted above, the original carb for your T-Bird would have been a Holley list number 1272 for a standard trans, or a Holley list number 1273 for an automatic trans. If you are not hung up on originality (your query asking for modern replacement), then (as noted by others) both Carter and Autolite were used by Ford in 1957 on the passenger cars (other than T-Bird). Others will have differing opinions, but mine is that both the Carters and the Autolites for 1957 have issues; although fewer than the 1957 Holley. The Carter's major issue (I posted this earlier) is the unreliable secondary diaphragm. The Autolite also has a secondary diaphragm. Also, the Autolite was totally redesigned for 1958. About the only pieces interchangeable on the Autolite from 1957 to 1958 are the body screws. Parts for 1957 Autolites are available, but constructed from "verypricium"! My suggestion for a different carb would be a rebuilt (I doubt few new old stock exist) Autolite from a 1958 or newer THAT WAS ORIGINALLY USED ON A 312. Virtually all parts (excepting the secondary diaphragm) are readily available and inexpensive. The secondary diaphragm is also available, but not inexpensive. I do not know what changing to the 1958 or newer would do as far as distributor requirements. Not certain when Ford got rid of the loadmatic distributor. Going to take a Ford electrical guru to answer that possible issue. Jon

Actually, it was more like Carter gave up on the design which Ford wanted to use......the unreliable secondary diaphragm! Carter made them for Ford (and a few Chrysler) for a couple of years, instead of the bulletproof airvalve design used for others. The secondary diaphragms were trouble, period, and Carter refused to continue making them. Ford (Lincoln) used Carter though most of the 1960's until the spread-bore carburetor became popular. While Carter had a racing only spread-bore in 1969, Carter did not release spread-bores for production until 1971. Ford did use the thermoquad on many of their high performance non-smog engines in the mid 1970's and newer. Jon.

This link may (or may not) help: THE CARBURETOR SHOP / Troubleshooting How far out are your idle mixture screws? Jon.

Try this link: THE CARBURETOR SHOP / Troubleshooting Jon.

Tim - I personally am against the use of any thread sealer on fuel fittings, but if you just have to use it, then ONLY on tapered (pipe) threads. And NEVER use Teflon tape on fittings. As an aside, I finally found a good use for Teflon tape. I tie it around the small trees I set out each spring to mark them so I can see them when mowing! Suggestions: (1) ALWAYS start all the fittings in the system before tightening any of them. (2) Give your 142 year-old great grandmother an open-end wrench and ask her to tighten all of the fittings! Jon.

The Stromberg EE-1 is a type or model of carburetor. There are several different model EE-1's The EE-1 should be cast in large letters and number on the cast iron throttle body. You really should verify this prior to ordering a kit. Rebuilding kits are readily available by mail order. Jon.

An empty mustard or ketchup squeeze bottle, cleaned, and then filled with fresh fuel. Squirt the fuel into each carburetor through the bowl vent filling the carburetor. The engine should start on the first revolution. Saves the battery, the starter, and the good disposition of the operator! Jon.

The carburetor in the top two pictures is the older WCD style. The carburetor in the next pictures is the newer WGD style. BOTH have the original tags. The numbers on the tags will allow you to determine the exact application. And if you are going to install a pertronix, I would suggest the installation of a good high output alternator. Jon.

On this carburetor, turn in (clockwise) to lean; out (counterclockwise) to richen. Jon.

I have read this thread at least a dozen times trying to decide whether to post an answer or not. Finally decided on an answer that may not be exactly what you were asking for, but won't get you in trouble! First, it is vitally important for you to define what the word "restore" means to you. If you use the dictionary definition of "return to original condition" then STOP!!! The fact that you asked the question means you should not attempt this work yourself, send it to a professional. Why? Trying to use the cleaning agent one might use successfully on a 1935 Buick Marvel on a 1929 Buick Marvel and accidentally inhaling the fumes could send you to the hospital or worse! Early zinc alloy ("pot metal") in contact with hot caustic lye will emit toxic fumes!!!!! Now, if you are talking about a functional BUT NOT COSMETIC rebuild, an ultrasonic cleaner with ordinary dishwater soap will do a reasonable job. The name brand "Dawn" is available locally, and works well. Run the heaters at about 165~175 degrees F. And please understand, this is not an advertisement. My shop no longer restores carburetors due to the pressure of trying to keep others in rebuilding kits. So don't send the carbs to us, as we will just send them back. If you do not have access to an ultrasonic cleaner (yes, I know they are expensive), then use the dishwater soap in hot water. And just for the record, when we were still restoring carbs, we would do an initial cleaning in the ultrasonic, then glass bead the surfaces and send the castings to various metal laundry companies to apply the original finish (and there are dozens of different original finishes). I saw what some of the chemicals did to enthusiasts that should have left them alone, and did not want that result to me! Better to spend a little extra and live to work on something else! Jon.

Aaron - each carburetor has a manufacturer recommended range for the idle mixture control screws. The method I personally use (others will differ) is as follows: (A) determine the range for the specific carburetor ( divide the range into 3 parts, and set as follows: © for engines which are new to roughly 1000 miles go 2/3 of the distance from the minimum setting (D) for engines which have a 1000 miles (broken in, and still have acceptable compression - good running engines) go 1/3 of the distance from minimum setting (E) for engines which you are just trying to get through the summer before complete rebuild, go to the maximum setting And of course, the obligatory example: Assume the manufacturer's range to be 1/2 turn to 2 turns, then 1/3 of the range would be 1/2 turn. Thus for the fresh engine 2/3 added to the minimum would be 2 times 1/2 turn or 1 turn added to the minimum or a total of 1 1/2 turns For the good running engine 1/3 of the range would be 1/2 turn added to the minimum of 1/2 would be a total of 1 turn. And of course the worn out engine would go to the maximum of 2 turns. REMEMBER, these calculations are done with a "dreamed-up" range of 1/2 to 2 turns. Check the original manufacturer's specification for your carburetor. This only works for a modern "in to lean, out to richen" idle circuit, many early carburetors have inverse circuits that go in to richen. As a general rule IF YOU CANNOT FIND THE EXACT SPECIFICATIONS, a good starting range for carburetors produced before 1968 (smog emission) will be 1/2 to 1 1/2 turns. When smog emission became a reality, it was necessary for more precise idle mixture adjustments. Thus the angle of the point on the idle mixture control screw was changed (the taper became longer). Generally, the range on these longer taper screws would be maybe 1 1/2 turns to 3 1/2 turns. Jon.

Check the ignition system first, as others have mentioned. IF the ignition system is in good working order: Check the idle mixture setting. The idle mixture control screws (the two pointed screws with the spring retainer) should be set from 1/4 turn to an ABSOLUTE MAXIMUM of 1 1/4 turn from lightly bottomed. If the engine is in really good condition and well broken in, I would suggest from 1/2 to 3/4 turn. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature, and then try 3/4 turn. Set the actual idle RPM with the throttle positioner screw. Many enthusiasts set the carburetor to give the best idle, which is virtually always TOO rich. This can create "puddling" in the intake manifold. When the throttle is lightly opened, the onrush of air will sweep the droplets of fuel or "puddles" adhering to the intake manifold runners into the engine creating an instantaneous RICH condition and a momentary bog. Jon.

Check out this link: THE CARBURETOR SHOP ' 'C' APPLICATIONS Jon.

The TX-2 (zinc alloy a.k.a. "pot metal") superceded the OX-2 (brass). The OX-2 is an excellent replacement for both the TX-2 and the still newer UX-2. Jon.

ACCORDING TO STROMBERG DATA: Early 1928 Senior 6 (domestic) used Stromberg type TX-2 (2 11/16 c-c) Stromberg number A-11082, DB number AB-200-328. Late 1928 Senior 6 (domestic) used Stromberg type UX-3 (2 15/16 c-c) Stromberg number A-11943, DB number AB-202-219. 1928 Senior 6 (export - RHD) used Stromberg type UX-3 (2 15/16 c-c) Stromberg number A-12063 (Stromberg did not specify the DB number for this unit). Perhaps there are other differences from early to late other than the carburetor??? One other obvious difference would be the intake manifold. Not a DB specialist; however some other makes would specify starting serial number for owner's manual. Jon.

The Rochesters from the stovebolt Chevrolet six are readily available and quite cheap! The reason: many of the stovebolt six owners got tired of the problems with the Rochesters, and replaced them with Carters. Jon.

Interesting that the 200 HP (marketing) rating for the 1974 GTO was changed to 250 by NHRA. The Pontiac 350 in my 1974 GTO develops a wee bit more than that! One car that did not make the list was the AMX. In 1968, I was ready to purchase a new muscle car, and the AMX was getting some decent press. I test drove a 390 4-speed version and was extremely disappointed, especially with the price! I ended up purchasing a loaded Mustang GT fastback 390 4-speed that was a couple of seconds faster and $3000. CHEAPER than the AMX. Maybe the dealer detuned the AMX, don't know; but was really disappointed in its performance. Dave is absolutely correct on the influence of the insurance companies. By the early 1970's you had to be 25 (or independently wealthy) to afford the insurance, at least in central Missouri. Jon.

Certain areas of the fuel system need to be upgraded (Dave mentioned this). Once the upgrades are done, then the best way (opinion) to combat the effects of the E-fuel is to START THE ENGINE MORE OFTEN!!! Neopreme is listed by our government as ethanol-resistant (why, I do not know). Lots of more modern carburetors have neopreme accelerator pump diaphragms. Once the neopreme has been exposed to ethanol, and then allowed to dry (periods on non-use, and the evaporation of modern fuel), the neopreme tends to harden. Then when the owner again uses the vehicle and the neopreme has to flex, it cracks and then fails. A failed diaphragm often allows syphoning of the fuel, thus the engine will run extremely rich, if at all. Daily drivers seem to suffer much less from these effects. Carburetors with conventional plunger type accelerator pumps will also fail if neopreme rather than the more expensive leather is used; however the failure seems to be only that the accelerator pump ceases to function. Check valves used with conventional accelerator pumps prevent syphoning. Dave - sorry, I cannot agree with you or your tests about fuel economy UNLESS ONE IS RUNNING VERY HIGH COMPRESSION ENGINES. With lower compression engines (early 1950's and earlier), the loss seems to be about the same as the percentage of ethanol in the fuel. In other words, just consider the ethanol as a "filler", with no useful component in the running of the engine. To avoid engine damage, we generally simply recalibrate the carburetor to flow the same additional fuel as the percentage ethanol in the fuel. I personally use Carters (metering rod technology) on my own vehicles, and carry different sets of rods in the glove box. And yes Dave, I HAVE read the tests; however these tests do NOT reflect my own results, and we have to deal daily with others that do NOT get the reported test results. And I personally believe that most of the readers of this forum have sufficient intelligence to do their own fuel mileage calculations. But this post was not meant to argue fuel economy, rather to suggest that the least expensive and most efficient additive to combat the reliability effects of ethanol is simply to start the engine more often. Jon.

There was a question concerning Schebler carburetor identification in another thread. A link was posted to a website which supplied some confusing information. I have since updated the information on my website to include Schebler and Marvel/Schebler carburetor identification. Here is the link: THE CARBURETOR SHOP / Carburetor Identification This link is for your information. If you find it confusing, please let me know, and possibly I can make it less (or more ) confusing. Jon.

Not raw 90; 90 percent of total on the first revolution. If total were 125 then 90 percent of 125 would be about 112. Jon.

I would add that you are looking for these items of data before adding oil: (1) the compression reading on the FIRST revolution (should be 90 percent of the final reading for that cylinder) (2) the compression reading after 5 or 6 revolutions (3) the average compression (add the compression readings from all cylinders and divide by the number of cylinders) (4) the deviation of any cylinder from the average (should not exceed 10 percent of the average) Jon.