carbking

Pete - tell the WHOLE story. I told you in the beginning IF you supplied a carburetor identification number, I would see what we could do. Then, without asking, you send the base and ask me to match it up??? Rochester used 175 DIFFERENT bases on the various 4-GC carbs. We have approximately 150 BOXES of these, ALL tagged with the original part number (NOT the casting number). To get the part number for the base, you first need the identification number for the carburetor, then go to the bill-of-materials. Even I could have magically waded through to the correct box and found half a dozen with the same casting number; the casting number is for a "blank" that is then machined several different ways. One would have to measure all of the various passages, air bleeds, discharge ports, etc. to be certain of getting you the correct base. Were you willing to PAY for that amount of labor. Trust me, it would have been SIGNIFICANTLY MORE than a complete carburetor. I could easily spend a couple of months trying to "match it up". I am sorry that you broke your base. I am also sorry that some previous owner bought a cheap rebuilt carb with the tag removed so you don't have a tag. But I resent you blaming me for your problems! Shucks, I didn't even charge you for the return shipping costs! Jon.

Sorry - did not see your first post. This link may help: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/STROMBERGUPDRAFTCARBURETORS.htm The number following the letters is the S.A.E. flange size. 1 = nominal 1 inch carburetor 2 = nominal 1 1/4 inch carburetor Internally, different venturii are available to allow for use on different size engines. The URO-1 is physically smaller, and probably internally MUCH smaller than the URO-2. The URO-1 was designed for four cylinders from basically 100~200 CID (remember - different internal venturii). The URO-2 was designed for primarily six cylinders from 240~270 CID. I wouldn't make the switch if you plan to start the engine. What one puts on a museum engine is an entirely different story. Jon.

Model car and slot car catalogs, track layouts, and service manuals. Shipping within the 48 contiguous United States $15. per order by UPS. Outside 48 states, please call VISA, Mastercard, Money Order, personal check 573-392-7378 (9-4 Mon-Tues central time). Will ship free (48 states) for 10 or more item order. NO PM's. Post wants here, or call. Jon. Company Date Title Auther Condition Price AMT 1975 Catalog Like new $15.00 AMT 1976 Covering the world of hobby kits Excellent $15.00 AMT 1977 Midyear News (model kits) Like new $8.00 AMT 1977 New Horizons in hobby kits Like new $15.00 AMT/ERTL 1989 Model Kits Like new $8.00 AMT/ERTL 1990 Model Kits Like new $8.00 Argus 1979 All about Model Cars Excellent $25.00 Aurora 1963 Model Motoring Service Manual Good $15.00 Aurora 1969 Model Motoring Excellent $20.00 Aurora 1970 Model Motoring in HO Scale Very good $15.00 Aurora 1970 1/32 Car Service manual Excellent $20.00 Aurora 1973 AFX Model Motoring Like new $30.00 Aurora 1974 Aurora Axlerators Excellent $10.00 Aurora 1974 AFX Racing Excellent $15.00 Aurora 1979 Road Racing 1979 Like new $35.00 Aurora 1979 AFX Road Racing Handbook Excellent $35.00 Aurora (hardback) 1967 Complete Handbook Model Car Racing Excellent $70.00 Auto World 1976 Model Cars (catalog) Excellent $15.00 Auto World 1977 Model Cars (catalog) Excellent $15.00 Auto World 1978 Model Cars (catalog) Excellent $12.00 Auto World 1979 Model Cars (catalog) Excellent $12.00 Auto World 1980 Model Cars (catalog) Excellent $10.00 Auto World 1981 Model Cars (catalog) Excellent $10.00 Auto World 1985 Model Cars (catalog) Excellent $10.00 Auto World 1990 Model Cars (catalog) Excellent $10.00 Consumer Guide 1978 Model Cars Excellent $10.00 Hardback 1956 Building & Operating Model Cars Walter Musciano Very good $65.00 Hardback 1966 Slot Car Racing Bob Braverman Excellent $70.00 Hardback 1967 Model Road Racing Handbook Robert Schleicher Excellent $100.00 Mc's Card & Hobby 1998 Plastic model kit price guide Matthew Lancaster Like new $5.00 Model Car Science 1965 Model Car & Racing manual Very good $15.00 Monogram 1984 Catalog Like new $8.00 Monogram 1990 Our Ultimate Achievement (catalog) Like new $8.00 MPC 1975 Catalog Like new $10.00 MPC 1977 Catalog Like new $10.00 Revell 1963 Hobby kits & Home Raceways (paint stain, otherwise Ex) Fair $100.00 Revell 1969 Track Layout Manual Excellent $15.00 Revell 1976 Model kit Catalog . Like new $8.00 Revell 1977 Catalog Like new $8.00 Revell 1990 Catalog Like new $8.00 Strombecker 1963 Road Racing (1st edition) Very good $30.00 Testors 1988 Catalog Like new $8.00 Testors 1990 Catalog Like new $8.00 <!-- / message --><!-- sig --> __________________

When tags are missing, 99 percent of the time the tag is missing because the carb IS NOT THE ORIGINAL. Commercial carburetor rebuilders who sell their product through your FLAPS, "GROUP" several different carburetors together, and remove the tag so the knowledgeable customer will not know they are getting the wrong carburetor. With the Rochester 4-GC (a.k.a. 4-Jet), it is sometimes possible to identify the carburetor without the tag. This link may help: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carburetor_ID_Rochester_4G.htm Once the carburetor has been exactly identified, a rebuilding kit with the correct parts including the accelerator pump is available. Jon.

I have been collecting stamps for over 60 years, and have identified (and collected) a lot of stamps which have an automobile as the theme. Recently I found the American Topic Association, which caters to stamp collector that collect stamps with a common theme, whether the theme be automobiles, birds, fish, etc. (just about any topic you can imagine). Checklists (with a membership) are available on many themes directly from ATA. The checklists on automobiles have several thousand entries, mostly of very inexpensive stamps. Here is a link to the website of the ATA: http://www.americantopicalassn.org/ I just joined. Jon.

My guess would be a power valve (economizer valve) which is stuck open. This could be caused by: (A) Fatigued spring in the valve, in which case it will need replacing ( The normal crud residue from modern fuel, in which case removing the valve and cleaning the valve in lacquer thinner may solve the issue. Remember when removing/installing a power valve, one SHOULD utilize a special tool! This tool need not be purchased, as it can be made. Take an old screwdriver that has a blade of the proper thickness and width, and grind a groove in the center to allow clearance for the plunger in the power valve. Remember to dip the blade in oil periodically while grinding to prevent overheating and removing the temper from the blade. Jon.

In addition to David's comment, Stromberg used five different venturi sizes to allow these carburetors to be used on different displacement engines, as well as two different sized air intake castings, plus a very few had no accelerator pump. Both the UU-2 and the UUR-2 are TYPES OR MODELS of carburetor. The different INTERNAL sizes allowed them to be used by various manufacturers on engines from 198 to 525 CID. Jon.

Codi - glad you found the problem. Those nasty little electrical gremlins can crawl in anywhere! Jon.

I have passed the information to the researcher documenting the set. Thanks to all. Jon.

This is from the T119 tobacco card set which is titled "World Scenes", so it could indeed be European. The collectors on the non-sports cards forums know I collect automobile cards, and send me many of the questions on automobile cards. Some I can answer, this one I could not, so posted here. This is the only card in the set with a car on the card, and if we could positively identify the car, then we know the set could not have been printed prior to the production of the car. Thanks to those who have already posted, and to those that hopefully will post. Jon.

This is a picture on a tobacco card from a series which is not fully documented. Knowing the make and year of the car would help to narrow the year which the set was printed. Any help is certainly appreciated. Jon. http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/t119car.jpg

The first thing I would do would be a compression check. If the engine has low compression, it will not draw sufficient fuel from the carburetor to run properly. Assuming good compression (and assuming you have all the electric gremlins chased), the next thing would be to again remove the carburetor, and check the operation of the float. The fuel valve in the Detroit screws into a fuel "log". The fuel log is attached to the fuel line, and has been known to warp the bottom of the bowl where the fuel log screws into the bottom of the bowl. This causes the fuel log to lean, generally toward the float, occasionally causing a bind where the horseshoe of the end on the float fits into the collar on the valve. This prevents the float from dropping sufficiently to allow full fuel flow through the valve, and preventing the fuel level in the bowl to be at the correct height. To test assemble the fuel bowl on the workbench with the bowl cover removed, and add and subtract fuel from the bowl using a syphon, observing the operation of the float. Assuming the float works properly, time to look at the infamous "vane box". The vane box is the zinc alloy casting which is kind of an open rectangle and fits between the bowl and the throttle body. They are known for warping. If the box warps, one or both of the vanes can hang on the side of the box. Since the opening of the vanes (this is a variable venturi carburetor) is what controls the main fuel flow, failure of the vanes to open properly will cause the carburetor to run a lean mixture at higher RPM. ASIDE TO THE WEBMASTER - WILL YOU PLEASE ADD THE WORD VENTURI TO THE SITE'S DICTIONARY? IT IS ANNOYING THAT ON AN AUTOMOBILE FORUM I HAVE TO CHANGE THE WORD 'VENTURE" TO VENTURI EACH TIME I MENTION A VENTURI AFTER THE SPELL CHECK "CORRECTS" VENTURI TO VENTURE! Thanks! Jon.

Stewart was a division of the Detroit Lubricator company. By the mid to late 1920's, Detroit Lubricator had a "system" for their numbers. The identification number was a 6 character (earlier numbers were fewer) set that was in the format: Letter (month) Year-year (the last 2 digits of the year) Number-number-number (a three digit code representing the "tag number" of the carburetor) We finally deciphered the various identification used on Packard, Cadillac, Ford, and most of Graham. But as the tops of the Stewart carburetors are interchangeable, lots of tops got mixed years ago when mechanics wanted to change the needle valve and were too lazy to remove the pins holding it in place. So the C27550 (top) was produced in March of 1927, and the J28850 (top) was produced in September of 1928 (I believe the letter "I" was omitted). The "550" and the "850" are the identification numbers, but too date I am not sure enough of what each means to post. It would be helpful if those with Stewart carbs (Chevrolet, Chrysler, Dodge Brothers, Hudson, Essex, F.R.P., Graham trucks, Hollier, Hupmobile, Kline, Lozier, Maxwell, Paige, Pilgrim, and Regal) would contact me with the stamped identification on the bowl cover. If 9 out of 10 were the same for the same model, it would probably be safe to assume that would be the identification. Jon.

Probably, if you supply the identification number. See contact information in my signature. Jon.

$12. ~ $350. Jon.

There are about 200 and the prices vary. Older ones are more expensive than newer ones. Not going to list 200 prices on this forum, but thanks for the interest. Jon.

For those who are unaware of these: Branham supplied serial number information for the insurance industry. Branham sent questionaires to each of the known automobile manufacturers each year concerning models, beginning and ending serial numbers by model (also sometimes by assembly plant) and serial number location. I believe the idea came from one insurance company that published its own book in 1919. As far as I can tell, Branham began publishing in 1920 for cars and trucks. Later (post WWII) midyear books would have both updates AND information on imported vehicles, motorhomes, travel trailers, etc.. I am disposing of my entire library of these books. At this writing, I have a copy of each year from 1920 ~ 1977 available plus the 1919. I found them invaluable in determining models (I have no interest in the serial numbers) for my carburetor database. The books generally cover 5 years prior to the year published. The information covered in these books is the most accurate available, as it was provided by the original manufacturers. (573) 392-7378 (9-4 Mon-Tues central time), or email. MasterCard or VISA accepted. Jon.

Part of this information I have posted before, but I have added information to this page of our website. While the page was done to help customers identify their carburetors to obtain the correct rebuilding kit; the information is available to all, and may help one to identify a Marvel carburetor: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Marvel_Casting_Numbers.htm Jon.

This link will let you determine the correct carb: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Kbuick2.htm Either the Carter or the Rochester will require a straight-bladed screwdriver as a special tool. Remove the airhorn, remove the jets, install new jets, replace the airhorn. Jon.

Our data shows that the original carburetor for a 1920 Chandler 6 cylinder would have been a Rayfield type G-3; which perhaps is why it isn't there. Jon.

Information in my database suggests that Hudson used three different makes of carburetor in 1910. In alphabetic order: Holley, Meyer, Stromberg. I have sufficient information to definitely identify the Stromberg used, but not either the Holley or Meyer. So, best I can say, its possible. Jon.

Like others have posted, I would say try it. Personally, I think one is too small for your engine, as we were running two 44mm 2-barrels on a 121 CID 4 cylinder (factory setup). Of course, the 4 cylinder was obtaining a much higher RPM than the Buick, but still we had two to your one, and less than half the displacement. Jon.

This link to our website may help: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Aftermarketupdraftcarburetors.htm Jon

The truck probably came with a Schebler of some description. I have always found it ironic that Schebler went after the firetruck market; there would always be a fireman present to put out the fire caused by the leaky Schebler!!! As to replacement carburetors: There are several things to consider: (1) physical size (center to center spacing on bolt holes). (2) straight (line drawn between mounting bolts goes bumper to bumper) or cross (same line goes fender to fender) flange. An adapter can normally be machined. (3) matching the flow capability of the carburetor to the airflow requirement of the engine. Once these criteria are met; then the issue becomes how good a carburetor do you wish, and what is your budget. Lots of carbs out there. Of the universal replacements, I (opinion, others will differ) consider (in alphabetic order) Carter, Stromberg, and Zenith to be acceptable. Jon.

Looks like "Snap-On" high end carburetor tool set. Tools for Carter, Holley, Rochester, Stromberg, and Zenith; and of course many will cross over to other brands. Jon.