hddennis

I wouldn't wish a South American car on my worst enemy! You don't know what worn out is until you see how these cars are used up. Go watch the movie " Money Pit" and then imagine something ten times worse!! Howard Dennis

Here's the bracket: http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/1730 Howard Dennis

After taking 10 Maxwell rear axles apart I wouldn't be afraid to run your Hyatt's for another century! Hyatt's are always loose and floppy until they are in their housing and the inside is filled with the shaft it runs on. Hyatt's are unbelievably durable, able to digest broken gear teeth and still keep running, some of my Maxwell rears had pulverized inside and yet the Hyatt's, although scared, still ran true and held everything together. Howard Dennis

Thanks John for showing that add. I have seen the standard coupes but had no idea they built two 3 window coupes with radically different body styles. Howard Dennis

I believe those fit the little flathead V8-60. Howard Dennis

Just stumbled across this and wondered what it originally was? Sure made a good looking stock car. Howard Dennis

Not sure in this case but I seem to remember reading some of these data plates are made of zinc, maybe that's why the reaction? Howard Dennis

As Gomer used to say, Surprise, Surprise! After dreading this tar scraping I find out that there is nothing under it but dry surface rust. Once I got the sharp wood chisel under the tar it just peeled right off like very old chewing gum and left almost no residue. Whole fan cleaned up in about half an hour. Now for another soak in the molasses to get rid of the newly exposed rust and it should be good as new. Thanks to everyone for all the helpful suggestions, Howard Dennis

After a few days in molasses it looks a lot better. It doesn't remove grease or the tar but the rust is all gone. I plan to use an old wood chisel to get all the heavy tar off and then try the various chemicals you fellows suggested. Howard Dennis

Might as well join in, Howard Dennis

Thanks guys, I'll try all of these ideas. John, although I like your idea I think your wife must be more understanding than mine. If my wife finds that fan in the refrigerator, I'm sleeping in the garage forever! Howard Dennis

Just bought a replacement fan for my 1917 Maxwell. It is in really good shape except for surface rust and tar. I'm currently soaking it in molasses and know it will come out rust free. My question is what will completely remove the tar that the molasses has no effect on? Howard Dennis

Here's the two fans I emailed you about. They are both rough and will require a skillful welder and bodyman to save them. Howard Dennis

Rare 1915-1918 Maxwell sod pan ( engine splash pan) on eBay, http://www.ebay.com/itm/190906532077?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 This is only the second one of these I've ever seen, they are always missing. I have nothing to do with this auction, just thought someone might need this. Howard Dennis

Did you see this dated 1919 with the add shown? You may have the very last one! Howard Dennis

Jack, a 1936 Dodge has twin ashtrays on either side of the dash gauge cluster. The factory radio head replaces the driver's side ashtray. http://forums.aaca.org/f143/radio-wiper-question-36-dodge-coupe-339166.html Howard Dennis

This is very much a brass era automotive horn. If you Google images "Klaxon 20" you will find many pictures of this car horn. Howard Dennis

This is a picture of my 1917 Maxwell front wheel hub. The original seal was felt with a tin cup that sat on that tiny little ledge just above the outer race, bet it fell off before delivery! The problem is , there is almost no recess at all. I just sat my smallest drill bit 1/16 on the lip sideways and about a third of the bit is above the recess. The race is fully seated and I can't cut the top of the race off or the ball bearing snap ring won't have a groove to lock into. The hub can't be machined any deeper because immediately after the ledge the race seats on it necks down to the spindle size and any machining in that area would blow through the hub wall. Other than casting and machining new deeper hubs I don't see any other way to hold a seal in. What do you car guys think of my idea to take a modern seal that fits the inner cone and grind away the outer part of the seal till it just sits on that tiny ledge and silicone it to the hub? I think once it sets the silicone should hold it in. Howard Dennis

One thing that may make the Maxwell axle look strange is the ring gear is missing as the rear was hurriedly assembled to transport the car to it's new home. Howard Dennis

Gilletman, don't know if this helps or not but 1914-1917 Maxwells use Hyatt bearings and that setup looks like this. I was able to get new bearings a few years ago from Olcar Bearing Co. Howard Dennis

Roaring Roadsters on Vimeo Howard Dennis

If your dash looks like this, you need this type key. Many times keys are marked Clum Mfg. Co. with the numbers 2624 or 3540. Howard Dennis

Granny, it depends on which dash you have as Maxwell used several during this time: if your dash looks like this, you need this type key. Howard Dennis

They have "Player" stamped into the adaptor and when I Googled it I turned up newly made pieces that look identical. http://www.ogrimsdirect.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=24 http://www.ogrimsdirect.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=25 Howard Dennis

That's okay John all you did was misidentify them. I was stupid enough to think they were very old and valuable so I bought them! Guess they'll wind up as garage art. Howard Dennis