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Don't over think some of the aspects of the bill. Here in PA we have a 25 yr. clause for antique vehicles with a driving restriction to 1 day a week. When asked about the 1 day restriction and what it really meant PenDot could give no real answer. I have driven my Model A pickup a good bit over 16yrs.,Sunday drives ,tours,trips for ice cream and even trips to the lumber company for supplies and have never been pulled over for an infraction. The cops have enough to do besides pulling over old cars. They do frown on you using an antique for regular transportation,that is driving it several days in a row to go to work,ETC,. and you cannot use any antique vehicle for commerce, meaning that you can't haul for pay or sell rides. The law also restricted cars without sealed beam lamps and turnsignals from driving after dark,for obvious safety reasons,but I have driven several times,usually back from a late show,with no problems.I have found that the collector car insurance is far more limiting than the DOT restrictions. I don't however ,agree with the occlusion of heavy vehicles as antique. Pa also has a one time fee on antique plates and does not require state inspection on antique registered vehicles. The classic car registration is different. One problem I have seen (and so has the State Police) is many hotrods registered as antique cars. This is a no-no as hotrods,even if they have an antique or repro body is NOT an antique car by any stretch of the imagination. At one show several years ago I saw a State cop ticket at least 7 rods with antique plates,I say good for him!

I have used high detergent multi-viscosity oils in my Model A for 16 yrs. with no problems. There are several falicies out there about these oils ,the number one is that HD oil will loosen old sludge and ruin the engine. Hd oils will not remove the old sludge ,but it will prevent the formation of new dirt deposits,another is that they suspend particulates. That is partially true(that's what helps inhibit the formation of sludge )but the oil filter will filter out the particles and the oil does suspend acids,water, and other damaging chemicals that can damage babbitt bearings that non.detergent oil will not. Another falicy is that oil breaks down. It does not ; motor oils can be reused after they are scrubbed of dirt as it is done all the time in the hvy. duty industry. The multi-viscosity will also help as it does not thicken with the lower temps. as non-det. will. I don't think you'll have any problems!

I used to have that problem with my Model A after winter stoarage;I used a more primitive method of release. I would move the shifter to neutral ,depress the clutch,press hard on the brake,started the engine and let it warm for a little bit and then pulled the shifter into gear. That broke her loose every time.I didn't worry about the tranny as those old Ford gears were tough as nails!Perhaps not the best way but it was quick!

Helfen, What kind of car or brand of air filter do you have. I had a sealed unit and was able to dissassemble it to replace the filter. A bit of work but worth it!

Restoration Spec. can furnish staples that you can use to install your beltstrips. It may require redrilling some holes as the staples are not quite the same width,if you're handy you shouldn't have a problem. As far as bending the material,you can opt to send RS the old patterns and they will make them for you or you can make them yourself. It depends upon which material is correct for your car. Many of the stainless capped material is flexible and easily bent some is made ridgid and cannot be bent so it is important to get the right material. I can't tell you how many times people tried to make parts using the wrong materials because they thought they knew what they were doing. RS will do a good job for you with beltstrips,they're a major part of their business. They also will install the correct fasteners where applicable. There are some tricks of the trade to make accurate reproductions,I know...I used to make them!

I drove my A for 16yrs without the filter with no adverse effects aside from a little leakage from under the cap. As far as a flame arrester goes ,if it would catch fire I don't know what the filter would do. I ran Champion C16C commercial plugs in mine although the original 3X would probably be best if you don't mind paying $25.00 a plug. You have to watch 2 things with the plugs. The reach(or length) and the temp.range. A engines are cold running engines so they need a little hotter plug,but all the Ford parts guys sell correct plugs.

The AUVECO company is an old aftermarket supplier that dates to the twenties and their products are only available through AUVECO dealers.They do specialize in specialty clips and fasteners but also have some rubber,mostly bulk universal and some older OEM type foam seals. Nothing specific or pre molded. Like I said before ,you'll not find an entire kit that is solely from one specific mfg.,most are made up from different brands because no one parts manufacturer makes parts for every vehicle. Many will cater to specific marques like Chevy or Chrysler but may have parts for other makes. Steele and Metro do alot of the preformed seals,that is door seals that have molded end caps and specialty parts like Qtr. window seals and vent divider bar seals. Resto. Specialties have alot of bulk OEM profile seals for older cars that do not have preformed door seals and they have some specialty grommets ,bumpers and the like and are capable in making specific small parts from samples. No company will never satisfy all customers(and I know from experience that some are really tough),you'll just have to trust the advice of others who bought products for the same type of vehicle and realize that there is only so much to choose from ,good or bad.

I think that several years used bolts like this. Try checking with the WPC parts guys,they should be able to help.

The battery box looks a little shallow for 1936 maybe a little earlier. Also the lid on mine only has 1 hole for a screw and a tab that holds the other end. The cover in the photo has a hole on each end.

You'll find that the antique rubber business is like any other:no one vendor makes all his own product. Steele is heavy in the moulded rubbers and has ,for the most part,excellent products. Other name vendors contribute other types of parts. Restoration Specialties makes a wide variety of bulk rubber seals,both OEM style and universal along with a number of specialized pieces made in house. They also hand make a large number of belt weatherstrips( window fuzzies) for distribution ,all in house and all rubber is mfg. in the USA. No one suppllier makes everything so it's best to check each one out. The problem with aftermarket rubber parts is that usually there is no original mfg. drawings to go by. Most parts are made from good NOS parts or from parts supplied by customers. Sadly,many of these samples are old and suffer from shrinkage and other damage so it makes it hard to copy. Some parts,though, are copied from good aftermarket pieces out of production and some mfgs. like AUVECO still make alot of old OEM replacement parts. It's also impossible to make parts for every vehicle made as the cost to sales ratio would render it unprofitable. I will say that all the major vendors do strive to provide the best products and services available ,not only for business sake but because they are car people too!

You might try drilling them out using left hand drill bits. If you can see in the recess well enough you should first try to punch a starting divot in the center of the screw using a center punch. Then start with a small bit about 2 sizes smaller than the diameter of the screw following up with the next larger size until you are just under the actual diameter of the screw. With left handed bits you will be drilling in the same direction as to back out the screw. Usually the screws will come loose quickly. You don't want to drill into the threaded receiver or you'll ruin the threads. Left handed bits can be purchased at a good industrial hardware like Grainger, McMaster Carr or if you have a supplier locally. Probably should soak them with a penetrating oil for a while before you drill them. Good luck!

Around our area people are always stealing copper. They'll go into occupied houses when no one is home and cut out the piping and wiring. Thieves stole the copper gutters off a church in town in broad daylight and about a week ago 2 men stole the copper ground wires and conductors from a local 911 transmitting tower in broad daylight rendering 911 comunuications useless but they were caught on video. Some people will do anything for the easy buck! The bad part is if you would happen to catch them you can't do anything. I like the Arab justice---you steal from me , I take your hands! Usually they don't do it again! Sorry for your loss though, I once had all my tools stolen from my garage,fortunately they didn't damage my Model A. Do check with all the local scrap yards as these guys usually dump the stuff quick and close.

Please forgive my ignorance,but what is the H.A.M.B.? I've seen several references to it but am not familiar with it . I don't keep current on all these organizations. Jim

Lokks good! I don't think you'll have any problem with restriction as the original was made from fine wire and tightly packed. Good job! Jim

Where are you located ? There is a four door sedan near my home that is supposed to be a'36 Olds,or so I'm told. It's been sitting outside for about 2 yrs now and getting a little rusty. It looks complete but I have no idea who owns it or if it's for sale. There used to be a old repair shop on the property along with a junk yard filled with old cars. Several years ago they cleaned out all the junk,all except the Olds. I don't imagine '36 Olds are easy to find.

Thanks guys for the input I'll check the "Doctor" out. Oh yea, sorry about the fordor faux pas,I used to be a Ford guy,I'm still learning how to speak Dodge.

I have located some steel replacement panels for Dodge and Plymouth cars from a couple of sources. They are supposedly hand made and will fit but carry a heavy price tag. I'm looking for a tailpan and front outside rocker panels for a fordor touring sdn. I've made the rear outer rockers but have no way to reproduce the compound curves needed for the tailpan and rockers. Does anyone have any info or experience with these"repro parts"? I hate to buy anything I can't see first ,especially parts that are not returnable. In my experience many "quality repros"do not fit well. We have no one in our area capable of forming these types of parts and these repairs are holding me back.Even the local auto body trade schools won't touch them. I could probably piece the rockers together but would rather have them in one long section. Any thoughts?

I actually planned to do 2 air filters ;1 for go and one for show. With a sealed filter you have to dip the entire top half of the can in the oil and that makes quite a smeary mess. Also,solvents used to clean the filter can destroy the finish.Dodge did have a 2 pc. hvy.duty filter but I have yet to see the right type. I was wondering if you really needed to oil the filter for it to filter dirt. After all we're not driving these cars every day or under adverse conditions and I had a Model A for 16 yrs. with no filter and saw no problems although I realize that's not a good comparison. Jim, you might consider having both the paper element and the "original" and swapping them at shows. I know that's a pain,but I'm a stickler for originality. Hey,whatever works!

Jim , There were enough scrubs in 1 pack to do the air filter. I was probably lucky to find the tube type ones right off the bat but maybe they're all like that,you'll just have to experiment. They are not very expensive and you can always use them around the house. They are substantial and easy to work with and I don't think they would have any adverse effects on air intake or performance. Many of those cars are really undercarbureted anyway! Give it a go!I still haven't found a use for the copper mesh,it kinda looks like a very thin fiberglass matting.The modern paper element might be a good answer if you can find one that will fit,that is if you can find a parts store with a buyers guide and someone capable of checking measurements,( not your local Advanced Auto,etc): I would be more concerned about air flow on a paper filter as they are usually alot more dense and might make it a little hard for the engine to breathe and of course the "originallity aspect".

I would think that most pto units were supplied by the manufacturer of the body. I don't think Ford made any dump bodies or special equipment like cement mixers,etc.so pto's may differ by mfg. The engine no. is not a reliable way to date a Ford. Engines were built faster than cars and trucks and were put in storage. It might be weeks to months for an engine to reach the assembly line and the engine no. was stamped on the frame when the engine was installed. 1928 and some '29 vehicles had a date stamped on the upper left(drivers side) of the gas tank front. Some believe that that is a build date while others say it's the date the body was built. Most dating of A's is guessing game using changes in parts and design during the years to get in the general time frame. Some people use the title dates but that can be false ,especially if a 1931 A is registered as a 1932 as production was stopped in '31. Trucks are harder to date as Ford would use up extra parts ,especially on the truck line, to save money and use up stock. It was not important to Ford to build trucks ,or cars for that matter, that were identical to each other or with over concern about looks. In fact,Ford trucks including pickups,were not rubbed out after painting except on special order,which I would think was not very often due to cost. Most A trucks are not restored properly when it comes to paintwork,and they never had varnished bed boards( a real beef with me!)

I got a box of copper wool as a sample when I was searching for filter material and I was disappointed. It's about 5-6in. wide and on a big roll,but it' real fine and comes apart really easily. I deemed it not usable for filter material ,but if you want to try it give me a call and I'll send you some,save you some bucks. No. is 814-322-4481 I still think the copper scrubs are a better alternative. I never could find the "original"type material in bulk. Must be something only made under contract. Jim

Those do look like '36 Dodge wheels as the spokes are pretty heavy and the paint scheme. I thought Chevy used a flatter spoked wheel with a little different holes

I needed a filter for my '36 Dodge so here's what I did. I found some copper scrubbing pads( I don't remember the brand) and they were all scrunched up in a ball. When I took them apart I found that they were actually in a tube shape. When folded in half longways they were the same width as my old filter,but very thin. I wrapped one around the inner screen and cut it to the correct length. Then I took a large sewing needle and some strands from the left over material and sewed the ends together. I did this several times to gain the correct thickness for the air filter,each time staggering the end seam. Then I slid the outer screen over the new material and I had a new filter. Fortunately , several wraps were the exact thickness so I didn't have to struggle replacing the outer screen. You may have to check a couple different types of copper pads to get the right ones,but boy,they worked good and they look like the new original filter element. One thing you have easier than I did,Dodge used a sealed air filter so I had to figure out how to get it apart without destroying it,but that's another story. I will say that the scrubbing pads are a bit coarser than the original and may not filter as fine in actual usage. Hope this helps Jim

A good bearing company should be able to cross that ND number over to another brand if it's not available in ND. Looks like a double ball brg if you say it has 2 rows of balls. Brgs. are listed in both inch and metric sizes and newer brgs may carry a different number than the original. Also many of the new brgs come with shields(metal plates that cover the balls) or are sealed. Usually this shoud not pose problems as they can prevent oil leakage. Good luck The hardest part today is finding older catalogs and a service rep who will spend the time looking up the old info for crossover. I used to sell bearings and I know that if you dig deep enough you should find something!

Steve, If you have your old tank you might contact a good tin shop in your area to build you a new tank. I had one for my "36 Dodge made and it's just like the original. The tinner put the baffle in and all the reinforcements in for the fuel gauge ,filler neck and ports. It was all rolled and soldered galvanized steel so it won't rust. Wasn't cheap but worth it. Might be your answer! Jim