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Ron I see that you must have a fordor. I think you'll find that making door sills will be a very difficult task. Probably better to purchase some,either used or new. If you are having trouble with your window channels I can help you with those. I can rebuild the wide front channels and the upper ones and get you the correct window channel. Front doors are different from the rear. If you don"t have the correct regulator channel you will have to hunt them down. If you want the windows to operate properly it's imperative that you have the right channels. I might have a couple of fronts that might still be good. Let me know Jim

You didn't specify if your car was a fordor sedan or not. The sedans had arm rests built into the rear side seat trim and front arm rests were avail. as an option but I have yet to see a car with them. The cars did have door sill plates and new ones may still be available from a company in North Haledon,NJ. ph. 973-423-1196. Good quality but not cheap. What do you mean by window side chanels? There are the window run channels that the glass rides in and the regulator channels attached to the glass. There were only inside wipe strips and bumpers on the outside . Carpets were only in the rear and were in 3 parts. A strip was nailed to the diveshaft tunnel and 2 small pcs. for the foot areas had floating pins that went through holes in the floor to hold them in place. The doors were trimmed on the bottom with carpet material. If you want more info feel free to call me at 814-322-4481 PA East. time Thanks JIm

Peterjay, The rear qtr. window frames are very hard to come by so you almost have to take what comes up. There was a set on E-bay ,but everybody seems to want to get rich on every part. Way overpriced! Keep checking the Dodge Bros. "For Sale" section and maybe something will come up. Depending on how bad your frames are ,they may be able to be repaired. A good quality headliner and door panel material can be obtained at Restoration Specialties in PA. Their phone no. is 814-467-9842. They also carry the original type cage clips used on original door panels. You will have to make your own panels patterned after the originals. If you need help I have made these before and will be willing to give you any help. (814-322-4481) Good luck Jim

I don't know how many gear ratios were available for trucks in 1936 but I would think that 4:11-1 was pretty standard. You might check to see how many years that differential housing was used and if a later set of gears would fit. I think that if you want a higher ratio you'll have to change axles. I'm pretty sure that the housing for the car and truck are the same length,use the same backing plates and drums,have the same mounting brackets but the 4:11 axle has a deeper rear plate and a larger diameter pinion shaft housing. I had a car with a truck axle in it and I had no idea until I went to replace the pinion seal. If you need an axle I'll giver you a good deal. Let me know or give me a call.

Russ, I believe that the two housings are different. I had a 4-11 rear in my car and only discovered it because the pinion oil seals were different. I have a rear axle that I think is good but it really needs some TLC. I also have a nice 4-11 housing and gear set avail. if anyone is interested. I do not have rear springs though! Let me know if you are interested, I live in Johnstown ,PA.

The parts book does show seats being trimmed in Bedford Cord , which is similar to a cordouroy , but I can't find any specific color listed. There are only 2 colors listed in the parts book. Code 550-color 2706 and code 558- color 558 but I do not know what they looked like. A broadcloth was also available in apparently 4 colors. I think the pile, or mohair, was standard equip. and the other styles were special order at extra cost. At a time when money was tight, cheaper was better than fancy for most people. Actually, last time I checked, the good mohair frabric was cheaper than the broadcloth or Bedford Cord. I also think that it looks richer but I would stick with real wool mohair and not with the cheaper valor substitutes. The real stuff looks more authentic but that's my preference. Lebaron has a nice gray mohair that matches several samples of windlace, carpet and headliner very nicely better than the tan. I susoect that most cars had a taupe interior regardless of exterior color.

Headliner installation isn't all that difficult if you're handy. Biggest problem is making sure it's centered side to side and front to back. A good headliner will have all the pockets and nail strips sewn in so front to back isn't a huge problem. You start in the middle and work your way out to the sides , gently pulling and tacking as you go. Pull just enough to remove wrinkles and not distort the shape. Some repro liners have the sail panels sewn onto them which may or may not ease installation as it's really hard to contour flat cardstock to fit the qtrs. Be careful too to keep the twisted paper tack strip intact. This is not available although there are several good subs. that will suffice. You'll also notice that there are 2 short metal plates covered with fabric on the rear face of the front doors between the door panel and the top of door. New clips are avail. for these should you need them. Also, save the old upholstery buttons as I'm not sure new ones of the same size are available. The buttons come apart and the uphols. fabric is sandwiched in between halves. I found one of the door check repair parts I can send as a sample if you like. Let me know your address. The carpet on the floor and on the bottom of the doors is the same material and color. Originally it's a heavy coarse material( horse or pig hair I think) and good subs. are available but only in 2 or 3 colors. The rear carpets are 3 separate pcs. : the center part over the driveshaft is nailed in and the inserts are fastened with floating pins crimped to the carpet. New fasteners are avail, thus the holes in the rear floor. I'm rambling but i'm noting as details pop in my head! Later Jim

2nd Owner, How's it going? I would suggest getting the headliner from that company that I recommended. They are made with near original fabrics and authentic colors and will fit. You also have to order some extra material for the rear sail panels , front header panel, sun visors and glove box. The color that best matches is a light camel color. It goes well with most of the brown or tan (real) mohair fabrics on the market. The metal rods support the sides of the liner and do not extend across the body in the front. There are 2 full length rods above the rear window. The main liner strips are nailed to 4 wooden bows. One in front , 2 in the middle(which also serve to support the dome lamp) and one nearer the rear. These bows have a padding on to to keep them from rubbing on the roof. The big bumpers are to protect your head and the liner from the roof bolts. The rear sail panels( the parts of the liner that wrap around the rear window and qtrs.) were made from formed cardstock and covered with fabric. The top of this panel I believe tucks in behind the nail strip and in between the rear window and qtr. window garnish mouldings and the sides are nailed to the tack strip along the body. The front header is screw in and finishes it off. After installation of the int. panels the seams are covered with a "wire on" trim strip which is nailed on then folded over. It will be hard to get a good match on wire -on and windlacing as colors and pattern are limited. The coachlace on the doors and seats( the thin piping above the pleats) will probably have to be made. Bill Hersch and Lebaron Bonny have very good fabrics avail. Call them for sample cards. Any questions feel free to call! Jim

Hi Guy; Looks like you have ajob ahead. My advice is to SAVE EVERYTHING! Very few parts are available new. You will have to keep checking E-bay and advertise on the Dodge Bros. site. Restoration Specialties in PA have a good bit of rubber and fasteners both screws and body fasteners although very few body clips are available new. The rear vent windows are going to be hard. I hunted a long time before finding a set . You may want to find a good parts car. The front window channels are special and have to be rebuilt, I can help you with those if you're interested .I also have some misc. parts avail. so let me know what you might need. jamesopage@aol.com

hi newbie, Looks like a nice car, a lot better than what I started with! If you want to change the top there is a man who sells a gasket that looks like it will work well. The original wedge-loc gasket is not available , so we have to do the best we can. On the wheel cylinders, the rears are not avail. new but can be rebuilt by White Post Restorations in VA. The fronts were available though NAPA,that's where I got mine and I can furnish you with the numbers and with new numbers for brake hoses. They still may be avail. and at a lower price than the parts guys. Good luck with your project. Jim

Hey Steve, The original lamps have a 3 pin connector locked in a socket in the exit port of the headlamp . There is a metal sleeve and bakelite bushing that is attached to the wiring harness that connects to the headlamp conn. Sort of a bayonet type fttg. These are not available and do not come with the wiring harness. If you want to retain the original connection you'll have to find all the parts . On the harness you'll have to remove the pins ,install the ferrule and sleeve and resolder the pins to the wires. To save time and hassle, you might just put modern slide terminals on both the headlamp wires and the wiring harness. It should be hidden behind the mounting bracket. I did this on a Model a Ford and it worked fine. Good Luck Jim

Terry, I think I remember seeing a style of rubber mat similar to yours at Restoration Specialties in PA. Their web is Restoration Specialties & Supply, Inc.. It is not in the catalog so if you call, ask one of the guys about it . PH. 814-467-9842 Hope it helps Jim

HI, if you can bend like a pretzel - no problem! There is a small hole located on the bottom of the switch near the front. Take a small awl or nail and insert it into the hole while pulling out on the knob. This should release the knob and shaft then you remove the round retainer nut from the switch body and it will come out. The nut has a small slot in it for a screwdriver. Same for the dashlight switch. Hope this helps! Jim

Hi, Restoration Specialties in Windber,PA sells a snubber belting that is specific for the snubber type shocks. It's similar to flat hoodlace but has a stonger weave. Their website is www.restorationspecialties.com or you can phone 814-467-9842 9am.- 5pm.eastern time. This is a lot better that a seat belt material. Good luck Jim

Duane , I use Paul's Chrome Plating in Mars PA. and have been very satisfied with the results. They have a very good guarantee and fairly quick service. I had them plate the ram and grille center on my '36Dodge. They had to repair the grille( bottom was broken off). When I recieved the parts back I noticed some of the detail was missing from the ram and the parts did not fit the shell due to too much plating on the widow's peak. I talk to Bill at Paul's and explained what I needed and they did correct the problem (replated both parts ) at no charge and they were excellent. Can't ask for more than that! They're one the web or advertise in Hemmings. Make sure that with any plating you are specific in what you want done and if the parts fit into a bezel or an assembly ,send that part along also so they can fit it as most platers will not guarantee fit without the mating part. Good luck Jim

Dave You're going to have to have a good restorer or auto upholsterer stitch you one up, especially if you'[re restoring the car. If you have any of the old upholstery,door panels and sail panels, that will help. As far as material goes Restoration Specialties has good door panel board and painted cowlboard as well as original type clips and fasteners . I got samples from Lebaron-Bonney for materials like mohair and headliner mat. They have a lot of quality fabrics in yardage and they also have an old style carpet material that closely resembles the original carpet for the floor and door panels. They also have welting, coachlace and windlacing. Colors can be limited though! You can always get brave and try stiching it yourself but that'a a job! Good hunting! Jim

Hi Ken: I had a local tinsmith make me a new tank for my '36 Dodge. He made it out of galvanized sheet but rolled and soldered the seams. This eliminates the seam rusting that that follows welding of the metal. He was able to put in the baffles and the retainer ring for the fuel sender. Might be cheaoer than stainless. Good Luck! Jim

Hi 1930: Restoration Specialties has an asst. of old stock carpet fasteners as well as new stock. They look and work just like the originals. They also have special type male fasteners that were used on some cars. Their number is 814-467-9842 and hrs. are Mon.-Fri.9:00 am-5:00pm Good Hunting Jim

Hi Terry: Long and short grain top materials are about the only type you can readily purchase today. They were used universaly not only by Ford. If you contact Restoration Specialties in Windber PA they should have some "smooth" top material. It's really a misnomer because it does have a slight leather type grain in it. They can furnish you with samples. Their number is 814-467-9842 Mon.-Fri. 9-5. Good hunting Jim

Hi John: Most of those old single master cylinders had a push rod that went from the brake pedal into the piston of the cylinder. The piston is about the size of a nickle and held into the cylinder with a lock ring. These should not have to be removed or reused. The plunger rod was held in with the rubber bellows seal that goes over the piston end. Your rod may be frozen into the piston. Soaking may be the only way to remove it. The other option is to find another plunger rod. Hope this helps Jim

Hi Reg: I don't think that any preformed mats are available for these cars. Some vendors advertise having mats but what you will get is a piece of flat matting cut to size(with a price tag to match!) You can,with a little care,make a mat by cutting parts from a flat mat and glueing them together to form a contoured mat. This can be a little tricky though. I know a man who bought an exercise mat at Sears and used that. It is a little thick but "cushy" enough to form around the tranny hump. Looked pretty good in a '35 Ply. Flat matting, in several patterns cah be found at Restoration Specialties in PA. Their ph. is 814-467-9842. Good Luck Jim

Hi FR MIKE ; First make sure you have an original set of skirts. There is a groove that run along the outer perimeter of the skirts which fits over the edge of the fender. It should have a rubber weatherstrip fastened to it to protect the paint. inside the chrome trim wings (if they are there) is a large chrome nut attached to two opposing rods attached to "j" shaped clamps. When the nut is turned it cams over and pulls the "j" clamps down tight on the inner fender lip and secures the skirts to the fender. They fit very tightly if correctly installed. Again ,you have to make sure all parts are there and that they are assembled correctly. It's hard to find a set that is not missing some parts. I got a set for my "36 Dodge and paid dearly for them before they were restored. Good luck! Any problems just e-mail me. Jim

Hi Bert: To the best of my knowledge there is no supplier for the rear cylinders. They are no longer in production and your old ones,if you still have them , can be rebuilt. I had White Post Restorations in White Post Virginia rebuild mine and they did a very nice job. It only took about a week! They advertise in the Hemmings Motor News magazine and I believe they also have a web site. Give them a try and good luck! Jim

Hi: I believe that there is a lady in Ohio that will make custom WPC interiors from your old patterns. This is a regular business with her but I can't remember her name right now. Perhaps another member may have used her services in the past. I understand that she is pretty good. Jim

Hi Rob: To the best of my knowledge Dodge did not use a two tone color scheme in 1936 but that does'nt mean a car was painted at the dealer. Perhaps a special order or repaint. Now, 1936 Plymouth cars,are another story. Info shows that all 1936 Ply's had black painted fenders from the factory regardless of body color. Most of the ones you see now have been repainted or are black. You could order single color options at a higher cost. Memories fade after 70 yrs.,so who knows! We can only go by authentic literature. Take care Jim