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Steve, If you have your old tank you might contact a good tin shop in your area to build you a new tank. I had one for my "36 Dodge made and it's just like the original. The tinner put the baffle in and all the reinforcements in for the fuel gauge ,filler neck and ports. It was all rolled and soldered galvanized steel so it won't rust. Wasn't cheap but worth it. Might be your answer! Jim

Disconnect the rod from the needle at the carb by sliding the sleeve up the rod until you can remove it from the needle. See if you can turn the needle with your fingers until it seats. You can remove the needle buy turning it counterclockwise until it comes out. There is a removable brass seat inside the upper body that may be bad or missing. Remove the carb and look down the opening to see if the seat is in there. Also check to make sure that the needle itself is not broken. You should not have to turn the needle more than a full turn open, all that does is make the fuel mixture richer than it should be and could damage the engine. The gasket I was speaking of is not the bowl gasket but the one under the fuel inlet valve. I have found in some "rebuilt" carbs that there may be no gaskets or several gaskets in place,especially under the jet nozzles. All the adjustment needles are sharply pointed to seat in a fine hole. If you screw them in too tight all it does is damage the needle and they won't seat . I like to be of more help but it's hard to diagnose problems without looking at the car. You may check with MAFCA or MARC to see if there is a chapter near you. If you can find someone locally who really knows A's they can be a great help. Good Luck Jim

First I would recommend getting the book "The Model A Carburetor" by Paul Moller,available at any "A" parts house. The idle air adj. screw is the on in the front upper body just before the manifold connection. It turns clockwise to lean out and counterclockwise to enrichen. Start your engine and let it warm up. Turn the idle speed adj. screw( the upper screw on the throttle lever) out until the motor idles at it's slowest speed without stalling. Then turn the idle air screw clockwise until the engine wants to stall. The engine should stall if the screw is turned too far one way or the other;if it does not , you have other problems. Now turn the idle air screw counterclockwise until the engine wants to stall. Now turn it back clockwise until the engine will run evenly without rocking. Theoretically, all adjustments should be made after making sure the timing is correct. After adjusting the air turn the idle speed screw in just enough to make the engine run smooth. The gas adjustment and the choke rod is one and the same. Before you start a cold engine(and always start the engine with the spark lever fully retarded(all the way up),turn the choke rod knob clockwise until it just seats and the turn it counterclockwise one full turn. This enriches the mixture a little to aid startup. After it warms up close the rod and then open it about 1/4 of a turn for regular driving. To make a quicky check of the float position you must first remove the lower body of the carb. Actually it's easier if you just remove the carb. turn the upper carb upside down so that the float rests on the needle valve. Measure from the float's surface to the machined surface of the upper body. The float should be parallel to the body and the distance apart should be about 5/8 in. If the float is not parallel add or subtract gaskets under the fuel valve to remedy this. The Model A carb. is very simple but there are a lot of conditions that can affect it's performance,to many to list here. Good luck ! If you're having problems please feel free to call at 814-322-4481 EST. Jim

This is a common problem with Fords. Is your car idling okay,usually stalling can be traced to poor idle. Chances are that your miixture is too lean and when you stop quickly the fuel rushes forward and starves the secondary well and the engine essentially runs out of gas. Try enrichening the idle mixture and see if that helps. Also you may want to check to see if the fuel bowl level is correct also. Also make sure that you run your car with the fuel adjusting rod about 1/4 of the way opened after warmup.Also ,make sure that the engine idle speed is fast enough to power a hot engine as the engine idle will slow as the engine heats up due to friction. Hope this helps

Have you tried to obtain any sales literature for your car. Even though the pictures are artist's renderings they can give you an idea of what the interior might look like. Contact some other '40 Dodge owners in the AACA,they may send you photos. Try to contact those who have really restored their cars to get the most original pictures;there's a lot of backyard interiors out there! Also,if you belong to the AACA you will have full access to the AACA library at the AACA hdqtrs. in Hershey,PA. It's loaded with info. You may also try the Chrysler Museum library. There are several brochures for sale on E-bay now.

All my info indicates that the pto is the std. type mounted to the side of the tranny housing and operated by a lever inside the cab. If not pto equiped ,there was a blanking plate bolted over the opening. 1928 trucks did use wire wheels to about February '29 when they switched to a 6 hole steel disc wheel( like on the Walton's truck). The '28's also had a worm drive differential with a type of ring and pinion( looked like a larger car diff.) later in '29. The new ring and pinion diff. became available in January '30 with the addition of the 5 hole Budd wheels. The only AA trucks that I've ever seen with side mounts were the Service Trucks, Closed Panel Trucks,Ambulances ,Hearses and some dump trucks. Express trucks(like the Walton's ) carried the spare behind the right side cab above the running board. Most flatbeds carried it under the rear of the bed. Only the sidemount version,and only AA's used the indented front door to accomodate the larger tire. I't looks to me that you have a very late '29 or an early '30 transition. I have seen several 1930 trucks using left over parts from 1929 and '28 mixing older parts with new, a regular Ford practice. The tapered rear frame rails also suggest an earlier frame. Your truck looks like a candidate for a full restoration and AA parts aren't aways easy to find. You'll find that most AA's top out at about 45mph. To gain any hi-way speed you'll have to replace the entire driveline. You might be ahead to part with that truck and find something else that you'll enjoy more. It's a good start for someone who really wants a stock AA but I hate to see it altered( just my opinion)! Good luck!

John,Your best bet is to get a sample clip or a good picture with dimensions. I worked for Restoration Specialties and I'm sorry to say that there is almost no reference material on OEM part numbers. Most all the numbers we had were derived from old aftermarket catalogs that sometimes showed OEM numbers but not complete lists for all years. Their knowledge is extremely good so if you call them they may know what clip you need or they may ask for a sample. Doesn't hurt to call 814-467-9842 Good luck!

I ran 10w-40 hi-det. in my A for 16 yrs and never had a problem. One falicy is that detergent oil will scrub a dirty engine. That is not correct,while any oil will pick up some loose dirt it will not clean off sludge. Hi det. oil will,however,reduce the further buildup of sludge and will suspend water and chemical solutions in the oil. The viscosity only changes with heat,the hotter the engine the thicker the viscosity,so a multi-viscosity oil is easier on the engine. Ever try starting an A in cold weather with staight 30 wt. oil? I would suggest that you drop the pan and clean it out good and clean the oil pump. Also check to make sure that the rear main drain tube is open and clean. Most of the sludge is going to be packed in the oil pan. I'v seen some so full of sludge that they would not hold a full filling of oil. Not good for a Model A. Also make sure that the dip pans are fasten in correctly so the rods will dip enough oil. Also, I ran mine with the crankcase just a little overfull to ensure constant protection. It will not push it out though the rear main if it's overfull. Don't be to concerned about rear main leakage unless it pours out. All A's will leak,in a way designed that way ,to lube the front axle radius rod pivot. Ols addage..if something's not drippin' it needs fillin'!

If you could find a copy of the service manual for 1936 it would be a great help. Should be able to find one from one of the better literature dealers. Mine cost me about $40,.00 12 yrs. ago but worth every penny,shows all breakdowns, wiring diagrams and instructions on repairs..

Thanks for the info guys! I'll pass it along to my friend:now to dredge up a good gearset!

Aw,you're right! Can't tell my 2's from 4's;can't type to good either!

Morton, Contact Hampton Coach in Amesbury ,Mass. as they supply Buick interior fabrics and kits from'27-55. Ph. 1-888-388-8726(should still be current) or Hampton Coach - Antique Auto Restoration- Chevy 1916-1954, Buick 1927-1955. They have some nice products. Good luck!

If you haven't already ,check out the '34 Chevy Master project under the restoraion forum. Now here is a guy who deserves the Medal of Honor for car restoration. He took ,what I would deem as junk,and brought it back to life! It's a great story of what can be accomplished when when one is dedicated to the project and another piece of motoring history is saved from the scrap man!

Sorry guys, I first saw the post on the Technical Forum. It's nice to have so many different venues but sometimes it's hard to know which forum will give the best info.,especially for the new guys! I think it's really great that we can communicate with each other like this-too bad we didn't have it 30 yrs. ago! Have a great day

A friend of mine has a '39 Special that maxes out between 45-50 MPH. Can a gear set from a Century be swapped for the std. Special rears or are the carriers different? Some one suggested the swap to increase roadability. Car has a rebuilt engine and runs strong. Any help appreciated.

Here's a cell no. so you won't have all the long distance charges. 814-341-2461 Be awaiting your call. Jim

To get the front channels out you have to remove the door panels and the long lock panel below the window. It might be eaisier to explain on the phone as it can be a little involved. Any problems just call. Jim

I know that the manufactures would put different gear ratios in cars depending on where they would be sold. Our area is rather mountainous as even a straight 8 would not pull the hills with hi-way gears. I'm told that the Century got it's name because it was touted to be able to hit 100MPH. Don't know if that is true.

Watch out for some of these deals like on Ebay. I've seen weatherstrip sets for $79.00. Way too much! You're only talking about 12or 13 feet of rubber for a fordor. Any questions feel free to contact me@814-322-4481 Good luck Ps. Did you have your front window channels rebuilt and new beltstrips? I can help with these.

I'v had to narrow the hex on some fastener in the past. All standard fasteners will have the same nominal(hex)size although modern fastener heads are not as thick as the original. I drew a hexagonal shape on paper the size that I needed and glued them to the tops of the heads as a guide,then using a bench grinder I just ground to the paper pattern. If you're careful it will wotk fine. A machine shop would probably do the same as it would be too much trouble to set up a mill for ten screws. Probably cost alot too! Good luck!

I have a '36 but the two are simiar. Both the front and rear doors used a bottom doorseal that sealed(and I use that term loosely) the doors to the door sills. The seal was the same profile front and rear. I have seen two different styles. One is a bulb seal about 3/4" in diameter with an 1 1/4" wide flap(looks like a "P"profile. The other is an 1 1/4 " flap with another 1" flap extending from it (looks like a Y profile). The long flap has slots in it and goes between the door panel and the door and is held in by the door panel clips. They provide a moderate degree of protection. The doors also have a rubber seal that fits into a track on the top of the doors. There again,It may not fit real well along the door edge. There is no rubber seal on the door sides, only the cloth windlacing that fills the gap. Rubber seals are available for the Dodges from all the legit antique Dodge parts dealers,and i Worked for the company that acually made many of these seals and I do believe that they are a little bit small. Might pay to experiment a little. Jim

I have a friend that has a "39 Buick Special with the same problem,slow,slow,slow! It maxes out at about 45 mph. I can't understand why they geared these cars so low. Maybe the engine doesn't have enough power. Someone mentioned about replacing the stock ring and pinion with one from a Century. Does anyone know if a Century gear set will bolt into a Special diff. or are the carriers different size? Any Info?

Post this on the Dodge and Dodge Bros. forum ,I'm sure you'll get an answer!

The unit that I saw at Hershey was an almost exact replica of a stock car. They also had a reproduction frame for it. They had one assembled as stock and it was very impressive. They had fenders , grille shell,hood and grille insert, and top irons along with bumper brackets and bumpers. I don't think that it was ever intended to be a Camaro retrofit. The assembled body looked similar to the new repro bodies available for the Model A Fords. I thought that license issues finally caught up with them as the bid guys started putting on the pressure around this time. Maybe Trimacar is right,not enough interest!

In most cases and I'm not real familiar with Chevrolet, the headliner was tacked to a tack strip above the doors and qtr. windows. The upholstered interior panels then met the headliner and was finished off with a "Hydem welt''. This welt is tacked on over the seam where the headliner and panels meet and then a flap is folded over to hide the nails. The windlace goes only around the door openings and the tack flap is hidden under the upholstered interior panels. Hydem is avail.from Hampton Coach in the appropriate colors for Chevy. In some early Fords upholstery panels were nailed directly to the tack strips with small head nails and the fabric was then pulled out over the nail head with a pin to hide the nail. Some cars will also have metal grip strips in places to hold upholstery.