HurstGN

You may gripe all you want about the looks, the style, the engine, the whatever..... Have any of you EVER gone to a car show and paid $10 or $20 or more for entry, all because it was for a charity? I know I have. I know I won't be at the national this year. According to the website posted above "Tickets are $5 for single tickets, or, $20 for books of five tickets." Much as this car is NOT on my "wish list", or "have to have it" list or whatever....I've spent $20 on much less worthwhile things. In the past I organized a 4 day regional event that even included having 4 cars on hand direct from Buick. (I still owe Buick a huge thanks for sending us the cars...the Blackhawk was a huge hit with everyone.) I know how hard it is to pull off an event, especially a national. I know how much work is involved and how many things can work against you no matter how hard you work to make everything a success. So here's how I'm looking at it: I can donate $20 to a good cause and help the guys putting on a national. Hell, I might even get a new car out of the deal! I think for $20, YOU CAN'T GO WRONG...ESPECIALLY IF YOU WIN!!!! I'll make you a deal. Buy the $20 book of tickets. If you're one of the people that doesn't like this car, and you win the car, I'll buy the car from you for $50. That's over a 100% return on your investment. Now that's a good deal!! C'mon, lets not trash the good intentions of the club here. Lets make a donation and help out.

OK, I just can't resist this one...... Dan and I are good friends, so I get to get away with this one. I am a professional, do not try this at home. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dans 77 Limited</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hopefully it wont take long to get the cat up and running again and this former Mopar house will now be a Buick sanctuary.</div></div> Just make sure that cat isn't clogged, or it won't run right on the highway!

All I have to say is: Plymouth Prowler Dodge Viper Ford Mustang Ford Thunderbird Dodge Charger Dodge Magnum Dodge Challenger Chevy Camaro Pontiac Solstice Saturn Sky Chrysler 300 Tesla Motors Tesla Roadster Cars either designed by the likes of Chip Foose, retro remakes (like them or not), or new cars with a design OTHER than the typical euro-trash jellybean, or another "like me" suv that nobody wants because gas costs too much...Buick doesn't even come close to being on this list. Ironically Buick introduced styling many years ago...now they can't style a darn thing.

Give it time....I'm sure a few things are still being worked on, like identifying new posts easily.... Looks like the new software has some new features. Perhaps someone would find the time to make a "ReadMe" post regarding the changes. Where the new buttons are...how to use new features, etc. A simple guide to what the upgrade is all about.

Awesome sleuthing Dave. I have a few people I talked to that are interested in what this meant. Thanks!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">SEMA Action Network Driving Force - May 2007 Pennsylvania Modifications: The Pennsylvania State Legislature has introduced legislation to include modifications or alterations to a motor vehicle that violate state motor-vehicle inspection laws and regulations among offenses cited as ?unfair methods of competition and unfair or deceptive acts or practices.? </div></div> OK, I must be in blonde mode today....but can anyone explain just what this means? Is there a bill # associated with this that I can read to gain further information?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">my latest one........ i joined the buick club of america..... </div></div> Yup....we're all guilty of joining that club. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

While hosting a seperate set of forums may be of interest to some, it costs money to do this. Is this an expense the club can support without raising dues? If the club can't provide a dedicated revenue stream to pay for this without losing other services or raising dues, I would not support it. Also, keep in mind, moving the forums to a seperate area means there will be no people "wandering into the forum" just looking around to see what's going on. This would reduce means for new members looking in on what's going on. Plus, if you move, will you keep ALL the history you currently have in this forum? This will be a task to involve both sets of administrators. If the AACA admins don't want to spend the time to help with the move, you may loose history. I'd like to thank the AACA for being gracious hosts these many years hosting our forums. PAerhaps we could work together with the AACA to personalize the look of the forums when visiting the BCA portions. While having a dedicated BCA only forum may be desireable for some reasons, in this day and age, we car people need to stick together more than ever. With legislative bodies trying to ruin our hobby with frivilous new laws, I'd rather be hooked into more clubs with fewer clicks if possible. A perfect example is how our wonderful state of PA adopted CA emissions standards for our new cars starting in 2008. The last time they tried a move like this (centralized emissions), we fought back and won. This time they did an end-around and it seems none of the car clubs knew it was coming. Now it's here and we're stuck with it. Perhaps we should start a legislative part in the forums to join forces together and fight for our hobby as a collective group. Oh, wait, there IS one already. It's a few clicks away in the general forums. Did everybody know that? Perhaps we're not making the best use of this fine tool we already have here. Perhaps the legislative forum should be a link on the main BCA page? I think a unified forum is beneficial to all that participate with an open mind towards the other clubs. I don't own a Ford. Did once...big mistake back then. Would I own another? Probably not...I can't afford a GT40, but I'd love to have one. Will I read about Fords? From time to time, yes. It's just a click away. Easy to get to while I'm here cruisin the BCA area. Just some food for thought. Do we really want to segregate ourselves away from other clubs? I can see many benefits from working together. Anyone else? Mods: Maybe this should become a topic on it's own?

I'll agree...Pete is doing a FANTASTIC job with the Bugle. And that's not just this issue, it's every issue consistantly. Thank You Pete for the excellent publication.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Need 2 wheel centers ... The part numbers on the ones I have are 25506050 and 25518708. They are a chrome cap with black plastic insert with tri shields.</div></div> A chrome cap with black insert was used only in 1982 for the Grand National only. This cap was pretty much obsoleted as soon as the last 82 GN was rolled out to the dealers. i.e. that part is no longer made and quite hard to come by. But you can make your own. - Get 4 chrome caps with the red/white/blue tri-shields emblem (lots of these to be had) - Get 4 black caps with the black/gray emblem (typically used on T-Types of the day) - Swap the caps and emblems. They are identical dimension wise. - Viola! Chrome caps with black centers. Hope this helps.

Perhaps some photos would help.... Plus the no title thing. Those of us in PA now have to deal with the new "Enhanced Inspection" to get a title on a vehicle like this. The amount of paperwork, approved paperwork, and criticality of inspection are so ridiculous it almost isn't worth the effort anymore. If you could provide a title, there may be more interest as well.

OK...DON'T get ahead of me here..... Working on a 78 Olds Omega daily driver. The job was to replace the rear leaf springs. With jack, jack stands, electric impact wrench and an assortment of hand tools I begin the job. I know a car spring is under tremendous pressure, even when worn out like these were. So I proceed and get the car up on jack stands safely. Next is support the rear end properly to remove the spring pressure. Exactly how I determined that I had supported the rear with the jack enough to relieve the spring pressure...I don't remember. There are certain parts of this job I don't remember anymore. Pain will do that to memories. OK. Back to the spring removal. These nuts on the u bolts had been in place for about 20 years, and they weren't giving up without a fight. With impact wrench in hand I begin removing the 4 nuts on the drivers side. 3 nuts down and one to go. I back this one off about 1/4 inch to verify no pressure on the spring. All looks good. Time to remove it the rest of the way. Due to the weight of the electric impact wrench I was using 2 hands to steady the wrench. The nut backs off grudgingly. The spring hasn't moved at all...till that nut was off the bolt. I just begin to remove the impact wrench from under the now free spring and BAM! 20 years of rust let something loose. The spring rams the impact wrench to the cement driveway with my thumb between the two. With true mechanics instinct, I grab my right hand with the left fully covering the damaged digit. All mechanics know if you hold it on long enough, 15 minutes or more, the thumb will not be severed and will still be attached. While she was quite worried and wanted to do something, I just sat there rocking back and forth in pain hoping the thumb was still attached. I couldn't feel the thumb at all. About 20 minutes later I opened my hand to find a severe laceration that was prevented from bleeding due to the pressure holding the hand. Back to holding...must stop the bleeding... It took 30 minutes to convince me to allow a dressing to be formed to cover the cut. The thumb wasn't broken, but it wouldn't move either due to the swelling. Now with a right hand minus an opposable thumb (I'm right handed) I had to finish the job since the car was now immobile. The straps that hold the spring together let loose and the spring was in pieces. This was the failure that got me. On to the work at hand (pun intended). I still had to do the second side! I was prepared for an exploding spring this time. With long Rube Goldberg-ish devices, I was at least 3 feet away from this spring when that last nut was freed. What happened on this side? You guessed it. The nut fell to the ground and nothing happened. Nothing! The spring tension was properly relieved, and this time the spring didn't explode. The scene looked like the bomb squad removing a fake wire from a ticking alarm clock. The rest of the weekend was spend trying to assemble the rear with my opposite hand and my now opposable thumbless right hand. By late Sunday night I got it done. I'll never forget parts of this incident...other parts to this day I still can't remember. Pain will do that.

Brian, Car shipping is a big business. There are 2 types of haulers in the business. Those carriers that own their own trucks, and employ their own drivers. And those that are brokers, that run out of an office and locate a trucking firm to carry your car (these brokers don't own their own trucks). I've used both with success, a broker most recently. Typically a broker will list your car for pickup and you will wait for up to 30 days or more for a trucker to arrange to pick up the car. This all depends on if you're "along the beaten path" or not. If not, the wait is longer. Price runs like this: assume the carrier says it costs $1000 with a $100 deposit. This means the carrier is taking $100 for arranging the service, and the trucker is getting $900 for the job. So the driver is responsible for fuel, hotels, and all expenses along the way. If he can't make it work for that amount, he looses money. They don't typically loose money, so they look at the price...if it's loballed, they just won't even offer to move the car. So lowest price isn't necessarily the best way to go. Open or enclosed is another selection. If it's a perfect show car, go enclosed, otherwise, go open. Open costs less. Insurance - make sure the carrier has full insurance coverage in case anything goes wrong. Things can and do go wrong at times, so full coverage is a must. Check out the companies at http://www.transportreviews.com/ When I had my car shipped from CA to PA, I tried several companies and the first two just couldn't get my car moved for me. I then went with Monstar Auto Transport after talking to Letty about my situation. Letty indicated this was going to be a tough transport to get done, but she would try her best. After 30 days, still no move. Letty asked for a little more time as she had one transport that may do the job if he could fill the load with another car along the way. I agreed. Letty got the job done, and went above and beyond the call to do so. To make it happen for me, she gave the driver her part of the fees. Yup, she got me transported and collected nothing in the deal. that's the kind of dedication to a customer that gets my attention. Monstar came thru for me when nobody else could. Do some research, talk to the reps and make your own call. If you do call Monstar and talk to Letty, please express my thanks again for being so dedicated to getting my car moved.

Might try Waytek. I've used them in the past. Not sure if they have cloth covered wire though.

Hi guys, I'm just lurking in here ... I'm a Grand National guy. I read your dilemma over finding reproduction floormats. We had the same problem finding floormats for our GN's as well. Long story short - I decided to make them myself. I custom cut the carpet to shape; embroider the logo; attach the nibbed backing; sew edge lace trim. GN mats were embroidered front, plain rear, and cost $110 a set of 4. If somebody wants to work with me, we can try to get you set to do mats in single sets again. The Reatta script would be less sewing, so the price would be lower to do them, even lower if all we need to do is 2 front mats. Limitations: As mentioned earlier, the only version of nib backing I can source is also black. So the back won't be color matched. And I don't recall the style of edging on the Reatta mats, but I think it may be a sewn edge with the thread looping around from front to back of the mat to finish the edge (known as serging). I sinply cannot afford a serger for carpet...as mentioned, we used a vinyl lacing that is sewn around the edges to finish off the mats. For the GN's, this was factory and matched perfectly. If a Reatta mat is serged, this would be a compromise. So, I put forth the offer to make you mats, 1 set at a time, and NEVER to pull the "increased minimums" trick...just cause we don't do business that way. To determine pricing I'd need to find the correct carpet, determine number of stitches in the logo to be sewn and amount of backing and other materials needed. If someone is near Pittsburgh and wants to work with me to find the proper carpet in texture and colors, I'll do what I can for you guys. I only insist on the initial help because I don't know enough about the Reattas to be able to ensure I'd select the right quality carpet, and colors. The GN's were easy cause I own a couple...but sadly no Reattas in my stable as of now. Once we get the initial stuff worked out, I can make them to order as needed. Since I don't have tons of time to frequent the board like I used to....if you guys want to do something, send me an e-mail to let me know if you want to try making a set. I'll try to check back on this thread late next week and see if there are responses. Dan McCann Pittsburgh, PA

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Most were between 120 and 140 ft. lbs., with a couple between 90 and 100. Says something about the consistency of the shop's impact wrench.</div></div> Mostly it's a function of the shop's air compressor. As it's pressure fluctuates, so does the impact. Once I learned the importance of the correct torque on wheels, I insist on it from my shop. The place I used to go to loooong ago wouldn't do it, they said it took too much extra time to do and they didn't have the time built into the state inspection "special" they offered....I never returned. The place I go to now does it for all cars, Yugo, Buick, Bentley...all get the correct treatment. It's little things like this that can cause Dan's list to artificially increase in size, and in this case, it's not because of a defective part, but a defective mechanic.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Pulsating rotors have been a chronic problem with GM cars for decades, but they sure seem to rust, grind, and wear out faster than ever these days. The only way I got past this was to use aftermarket rotors (unfortunately, made in China) which cost a fraction of GM's ridiculous Suggested List price. I also had to use Raybestos premium brake pads, which gave me 40% longer service than the crummy OE pads. Yet, I've heard that AC-Delco's Durastop (availble through GM dealers) are actually reboxed Raybestos product. </div></div> He didn't say he had pulsating brakes, but grinding brakes. Dave's point taken, the thicker the rotors the better, but as long as the rotor is within spec, it should give good service. I'll bet that in LESS than 1000 miles the newly turned rotors will become pulsating rotors and then you'll need new ones. Why? Because the service tech is not going to torque the wheels properly. He'll do the old zip zip zip with the impact wrench and the torque will be all over the map on the wheels. Some will be too tight, others too loose and bam! Warped rotors that pulsate. When you get that car back, jack it up, break each lugnut loose and torque them to specs. Ask the service tech what the torque spec is. Bet he won't know it since he didn't torque them down properly. I have a friend that is a loyal Honda owner and he had warped rotors on his new car. He bought new ones and they warped. He was getting fed up with them and I told him to check the torque on each one. They ranges from 55lbs to over 150 lbs on the same wheel. He argued with the dealer that they caused the problem by not properly torquing the wheels, they said it wasn't their fault. Now he takes his torque wrench to the dealer and torques the wheels properly before leaving the dealership. Right there in front of the service bay for all to see. He has yet to have another warped rotor.

From my personal experience, the top choice to: <ul style="list-style-type: disc">[*]Keep water out [*]Keep dirt/dust out[*]Keep heat out is a car cover made of Tyvek. DuPont Tyvek is tough, durable, and really keeps the elements away from the car while letting the car "breathe" to keep problems to a minimum. If you want thickness to protect the car from more serious dings, use an Evolution III cover under the tyvek cover. My 82 had to be parked outside one summer, and a bad storm was coming. We had over 1 inch of rain in an hour, 3 inches total for the storm. Winds clocked just over 60 mph. Very light pea size hail. After the rain was over, I checked on the 82...the cover was still on the car. No damage, no dirt, no water penetration. The tyvek did it's job. Previously I had used an Evolution III cover alone for a breif spring shower. After the minor rainfall, I lifted the now fully saturated Evolution III cover to find my car totally soaked. And a real cool diamond pattern of dirt on the paint that matched the diamond pattern of the car cover. This cover was good only for it's thickness, nothing else. Others may have other experiences, these are mine. Plus Tyvek covers are reasonable. KMart used to sell some for under $100. Dunno if they still do or not.

When it comes to 1982 Grand Nationals, I've got a collection of material that resulted from 15+ years of research. And all that time yielded very little, but I have it. If you have a need for any specifics on the 82 GN, just ask. I may have the answer. I know, there's so few left around that prolly nobody will have any interest, but I figured I'd offer since I know an 82 was recently offered for sale on the board.

Why build new refineries? The current ones are netting the big oil companies BILLIONS. Yes, with a B. The oil companies are taking the attitude that these billions of dollars ain't broke, so why fix it. I guess I can't blame them. They have a monopoly, price fixed to extract every dime they can from us pigs till we squeal then they back off a nickel.......and all the governments monopoly laws are doing NOTHING about it. If there were real competition amongst the oil companies, then I wouldn't see a BP, Sunoco, independent, Shell, 76, Chevron, Citgo, Sheetz, and ALL the others have the IDENTICAL price of $3.19 within an hour of each other. If that's competition, then WalMart better raise their prices, because the Federated department stores are charging more for some of the same items....or should Federated's stores reduce prices. Nah, lets all wish for BILLIONS in profits and have WalMart raise their prices. Everyone deservers to make BILLIONS of dollars like the oil companies do. And remember next time you price shop for gas....that identical price everywhere is competition, not price fixing. Are you of the body? -- Landrew

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you're thinking that the gas at your local station was refined way before Katrina hit, you're right. However, prices are always based on the replacement cost of the fuel. The short-term profits on the "cheap" gas in the storage tanks is supposed to soften some of the inevitable price spike down the road. Think if you sold apples and you knew you were going to have a bad year. If you had any apples stored from last year to sell (not likely but its just an example!), you can bet you'd jack up the price to what the market would bear on those apples, hoping to offset the lean times ahead. It's funny that people who rave about the wonderful "hand" of the free market, rant about it when it comes into play in the market where they have to buy goods. The unseen hand sometimes gives you the finger! </div></div> OK, lets examine this argument for higher prices, AND lets compare apples to apples, shall we? Or in this case, "oil to oil". You state "If you're thinking that the gas at your local station was refined way before Katrina hit, you're right. However, prices are always based on the replacement cost of the fuel." So the 4 price jumps in one 24 hour period totaling $0.50 we recently experienced are based on what the "replacement cost" will be. If this is the case, then how do you explain the industry standard answer that the price doesn't come down as fast because it takes months for the newer purchased cheaper fuel to get thru the refineries, pipelines, and eventually to the station? Up a $1 a barrel up $.05 at the pump...down a $1 abarrel, down $.02 at the pump. What gives?!?! A local TV news report showed a gas station owner watching the price of a barrel of oil trading on the market on his laptop, and he was raising his price because the price of a barrel of oil just traded higher. But somehow when the price of a barrel drops, the price of gas does not drop. If it does drop, it does not drop at the same rate the price rises. C'mon, we're talking one commodity here, not comparing oil to apples...I'm comparing oil to oil!! The oil companies and station owners are all involved in price fixing, price gouging, collusion, whatever you want to call it....AND IT'S WRONG!! Healthy price competition has gone out the window and big $$ profits are in every station owners eyes. I for one am damn tired of it!! Oh, I know, lets blame supply and demand! OK, lets do that. The price of a barrel of oil rises, so supply is lowered and demand remains the same. The result, price goes up. Well, as the price goes up, demand will lessen. When the price of a barrel of oil falls, supply will increase. So lesser demand and greater supply, and the price again doesn't fall as fast as it went up! WTF?!? All this BS from the Big Oil side of things makes my blood boil. I wish I could make my car run on methane gas. Then I'd just eat beans and fart my way to happiness!! Future price, yea, the latest buzzwords meaning "Bend over baby and get ready for the ramming of your life!!" Oh, no vasoline allowed here...that's a petroleum based product you CAN'T afford!!

OK, here's some feedback on your website..... Layout and graphics - Awesome! Very appealing site to the eye. Very nice to look at, interesting graphics. Well Done. Links - 99% complete. The links are very well thought out. While a "home" link is at the bottom of the pages, personally, I'd make your chapter logo at the top of the pages a home link as well. That would complete the package. Descriptions - Many of the graphics are close-ups of well known or interesting Buick "things". But to the newcomer to a Buick site, what are they? It would ruin the site to add descriptions to these graphics....so use the "ALT" property on all the graphics. This way a user can float the mouse over the graphic and learn more about what it is. And the little yellow box will not harm the look and feel of the website one bit. Car show pictures - Now this recommendation can be very time intensive, but will make the car owners proud of the time you spent. Again, use the "ALT" tag for a quickie ID of the vehicle, like "1969 GS Stage 1". Then, if you have a more detailed description of the vehicle, or interesting information about the vehicle, make the photo itself a link to either a javascript popup window that contains the textual information on the car. If the car is really special, rare or you have enough of a textual story to tell, make the picture a link to open new page with the picture repeated and the detailed description below. Overall - A Winning Touchdown at the Super Bowl! (I like football) The layout, navigation, content, and design is very well done. These recommendations are just "little" things that can make the site more educational and possibly more useful to newbies. And that may draw them into asking more questions and gain more interest in the chapter. An excellent website even if no changes are made.

OK, I'll toss my .02 into the fray, just for the fun of it..... I like to see both modified and unmodified cars. I take into consideration the reason for the owners final decision. Dan's Limited and Dart for instance, I can speak to these 2 cars because I've seen them both in person. The Limited is nice, and it's damn near all original. It won't break the bank to put original parts on it and keep it that way. I can appreciate this line of thinking. The Dart. It would break the bank to make this car all original and end up with a car worth what? Not what he'd have into it. So it's getting modified a bit. It's not a gem of history that needs to be preserved for our children's children to see...so a few tasteful mods and it's still with us today. Anyone want to drive the Dart on poly tires? C'mon, where's the first fool to step up to the plate on that one? Yea, I thought so. As far as the car Roberta rescued from the crusher, and today it's modified and running strong as a driven car. COOL! I'd bet to return the car to 100% original would be cost prohibitive if at all possible. So it's modified and still with us. I like that. On the TV show American Hot Rod, on more than one occasion I've seen them take cars that were damn near complete, original cars, and hack, cut, weld, and do all kinds of horrible things to it to make it a "hot rod". They did it with the hot rod build competition, and the Impala too. These episodes of the show made me sick! Apparently Boyd tried to buy the Impala in the past, and was refused as the owner wanted to keep it original. But when Boyd pays over market value to get the car to cut it apart and destroy the originality for the sake of a TV show....well, dedicated to our military or not, that just makes me sick. He couldn't find a rustier example to modify. One that was already a bondo queen? They redid all the sheetmetal and frame anyways. Sick. Anyone here like the 2000 Blackhawk? Wow, look at the hands in the air. OK, now imagine this was a 37 Buick from the salvage yard that was destined for the crusher and somebody spend 10 years customizing it to the car it is today. Anyone not like it now? I still like it. OK, how about if this was a pristine 37 that went through the chop mill to create the car we see today? Anyone not like it now? I don't like it now. The difference, the roots of the car, the work accomplished, the time spent to save an old relic from the crusher. If that's the case, I like it. If it was a chop and hack to make it, I don't like it. We know it was neither, but it gives us something to think about. Perhaps saving the old cars is best done by making them roadworthy and customized a bit. Perhaps the best way is to restore it to it's original state. That's a decision the owner must make. But if a car can be saved and it becomes a custom in the process because that's the only way to save the car, I'll take it. The 48 on the cover of the Bugle, I didn't read the article yet, but if it was a salvage yard junker brought back to life, I'll take it!

Sunday, August 7th, The National Pike Chapter of Southwestern PA is holding their 10th Annual open car cruise at Waterdam Plaza in McMurray PA (Route 19). Late in July, one of our founding members, Roy Schafer passed away due to complications from cancer. The members of the National Pike chapter are dedicating this years Cruise to honor Roy's memory. Roy was always active in our clubs activities. Several years ago, Roy surprised us all at our annual cruise by organizing about 15 Model A and Model T owners leading them to our cruise right up Route 19. At the cruise location, all the old Fords had to make a left turn with a short advanced green arrow to hold back traffic. We all watched figuring at the speed these old cars move, it'd take at least 15 cycles of the light for them to get into the lot. When the green arrow gave way to the first T, the car got mostly thru the turn and the light went yellow then red. We then watched the busy traffic sit still as every A and T moved through the intersection. It was a showing of respect that was just amazing. Not one horn of protest to the parade of old tin. Aside from a sanctioned AACA show, we've never seen a display of cars like Roy arranged for us that year. This was just one of the many things Roy did for our club. Roy will be missed. This year, we dedicate our cruise to Roy's memory.

Well, the plan came together very nicely. The weather was excellent. Nothing but sun for the cruise and movies under the stars. We had a couple hundred cars of all makes and models, and 1 motorcycle for the event. Everyone had a great time. Make your plans for next year, as this Car Cruise Drive-In is now officially a yearly event on our events calendar for the National Pike Chapter of Southwestern PA. Now if we can just get our Buicks running as reliably as that Chrysler minivan in "The War of the Worlds".