franklinman

model T Ford

Great pics! The info is much appreciated, Thanks

OK, looks like that pretty well firms up the requirements for the running boards. Again, thanks Tony. Now i’m Curious to confirm what the trim was that was used around the floorboards. Given the tight bends involved I don’t think it was the same as used on the running boards. Anyone have floorboards with the original trim, especially the pieces around the pedals, shift tower, and handbrake?

What Ed said... The Lowes, Home Depot, Hardware store stuff today just doesn't do much. Luckily I have an aircraft restoration facility nearby and we often swap/help each other with current projects. The aircraft stuff works much better.

I know just what you mean.

Thanks for the photo Bill. One problem is that Rest. Supply only sells the stuff in four foot pieces. The 1925 running boards require a piece 4’- 8-1/2” long.

I would also like to see what the original running board trim looked like, possibly with dimensions. Also how was it installed, i.e. were the corners mitered, butted or lapped?

There was some discussion that it might be over with due to a lack of personell to host/run it

We're in the process of putting a 1925 motor back together, but it may not actually be put into a vehicle for some time. I'd like to make up a run-in stand to keep it in and run it periodically and I'm thinking that the easiest and most convenient thing would be to adapt the front half of a frame, I'm also looking for a full frame, preferably 1925, for a project that I have coming up. I'm located in the south-central PA area (think Carlisle/Hershey) so the closer the better buy I don't mind a drive either for what I need. Thanks everyone.

Maybe I didn't word that the best I could, but my point was that unless you opt for the transponder you are penalized with higher toll fees. Personally, I don't care if anyone knows where I drive. I do have an issue with the Government using the reasoning that having the transponders saves the turnpike money rather than hiring toll collectors to justify the higher tolls. The problem of the higher tolls is the money the turnpike has to give to PennDot each year due to government mismanagement.

I have stopped using the turnpike since the increases to cover the PENNDOT fees kicked in along with the fact that they actually penalize me for not allowing them to install what is basically a tracking transponder in each of my vehicles and to have to maintain an account with my money in it that only they have access to. I will only use the turnpike if it is truly an unavoidable emergency situation, and I haven't had one yet that I haven't been able to get to by an alternate route. Government gets enough of our money and has enough information on our actions, screw them!

Beautiful Bonne. FWIW, those are not the correct center caps for the 1964 8-lugs wheels though.

I'm cleaning out some surplus DB items that I've accumulated recently and don't have a use for. This set of wheels came from a nice original car that the owner was converting to a street rod. They are in very good condition, with what appears to be the original DB blue paint on the spokes. The 4 wheels have virtually new tires mounted on the rims (the nipples are still on the tires!) but I can't say how old they are for certain. Almost all the original rim bolts and keepers are in place too. I'm not certain if I have any of the hubcaps as they might be the smaller boxed items that came with the lot of parts from the car. If I have them they will go along too. I'm asking $750 for the set. I can text some photos if you sent me a pm with your number.

In doing some wiring repairs and general work a question has come up regarding the battery box in my ‘25 DB Roadster. It is located under the floorboard directly under the driver’s side, like in the touring cars i’ve owned previously. However it is not the solid box with a lid that I always had. In checking the master parts book I find that the roadster battery box is listed apart from the touring but no pictures are shown. Can anyone supply a photo of an original roadster box or at least describe what is different. I’m not certain if what is now in my car is correct.

Hi Pete, I can't thank you enough for all the trouble you went through to get me the photos. They are just what I'll need. We should be able to easily scale the curtains for my car with them. I don't know where you are located but if you ever find yourself back this way (I'm about 1/2 hour south/south west of Hershey) please let me know and stop in for a visit. I'll keep my eyes and ears open for a set of top saddles for you. Some time back there was someone posting that they had a pair on this forum. You might want to search back through past posts and see if you can find it. I also got a lead on a guy that might have a set of original curtain rods. If anything comes from it I'll let you know and if you still need a pair I can make you up a set while I'm making mine. If there's anything I can help you out with please don't hesitate to shout out to me as well. I'm still hoping to find an original top boot to copy as well. I'd even use a touring version, just scaling it back slightly for the 3-bow roadster sizing. Again, thank you, Bob

No Problem Pete, If there's anything you're looking for let me know and I'll keep my eyes open through the flea market.

Thanks Pete, I can't wait to see what you've got. Sounds like you didn't make it to Hershey. The weather here today was really nice. I got really lucky and picked up a correct wiper motor for my '25, so it was a really good day for me. If you'd like you can email the photos to me: marern1@comcast.net . Thanks again.

Thanks Pete, So far as the rods go, If we can come up with even one correct rod, it won't be a problem to replicate a couple of sets (they are just mirror images so having one will give me all the information required to make a pair). Any information regarding curtains and a correct top boot, even decent original photos will really help. Thanks, Bob

I'm surprised that no one can offer any information regarding side curtains and/or boot for a 1924/25 DB Roadster. Maybe the right person just hasn't seen this post so I thought I'd try again just in case. I'll be at Hershey just in case someone could bring something I could take a look at, measure and/or photograph. I'm also still seeking side curtain door rods that I could buy or copy as well. Thanks again.

We've had many discussions regarding our trailers on this forum such as axles, suspension, brake systems, hitch types, and tow vehicles. I'm curious about what some of you do regarding securing your trailers from either outright theft and/or break in while your trailer is parked at a show or even at home while it's not in use. This topic has come up in a discussion around the shop lately and there doesn't seem to be a general agreement. For instance, there must be 30-40 different ball locks (sometimes referred to as coupler locks) on the market today. If you look at the various reviews on line none seem to really receive overly positive reviews. I'd like to hear from you folks on how you address this issue.

Specifically what type of insurance? I.E. general liability, coverage amount, etc.?

I would never have a spare tire/wheel mounted up on a wall inside a trailer. First, just having to lift it off, especially while having a car in the trailer, is not fun, nor sometimes not all that safe. Second, if that sucker ever comes loose just think of the damage it will do to your car while bouncing all around inside your trailer as you're still heading down the road. That's a surprise I just don't even want to think about seeing when I arrive at the show site!

No, sorry but it was sold very quickly.

let's never forget "Uncle" Tom McCahill!

Check out "TOTALLY STAINLESS" in Heidlersburg, PA. They are just down the road from us and are great to deal with, and good pricing too.