franklinman

We are in need of several of the large decals for prest-o-lite tanks. Some years ago these were made, but I can't find who did them. If anyone knows, or has any for sale, please let me know. Thank you. marern@adelphia.net

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If you are looking for a great tour car, there's a great, all-original Model 36, 7-pass sedan available. It's currently posted on the Horseless Carriage Club website's classified section (go to www.hcca.org ). I know the car and it's a super driver, and in exceptional original condition. A few years ago it won an AACA National Award in the HPOF class. If you're looking for a good family tour car you probably couldn't do much better.

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Hello, The car is definately an Overland. If you look close enough you can see the Overland script on the lower front corner of the top hood panel. This is the dead give-away. It isn't the 40HP model however. The running boards are wrong for that model. I could be either 1912 or '13. 1913 was the last year for gas light availability (Electric start and lighting was an option for the first time that year and used the "USL" system.) I believe though that it is a 1912 due to the rims. Hope this helps.

Post deleted by franklinman

Hi, I've had excellent results from a company called Emblemagic. They advertised in Hemmings, and some of the other major hobby pub's. I haven't had anything done in a few years, so I'm not 100% sure if they're still in business, but it would be worthwhile to check them out.

Hello, Congratulations on a neat find! As a professional restorer, and as a collector/hobbyist, I would strongly urge you to give serious consideration to not restoring this car. I am often approached with this situation, and the potential client is often surprised by my response. To start with, the only way you will significantly increase the car's value would be to do a complete, authentic, top quality restoration. Incidentally, the cost(s) to do this would far exceed the potential value of the finished car, so that's one issue to deal with. Next, if the car has significant original paint and upholstery and it's in the condition you state, it's probably not too far fetched to believe that it could be returned to serviceable/roadable condition without disturbing it's cosmetics. That would certainly be much less expensive, and the result would be a car that will offer you a great deal of "fun time". Finally, from the historical aspect, good original cars of this age, and older, are becoming increasingly scarce, and the few true originals that are left are our only tangible connection to automotive history. Comparitively speaking, original cars are now the rarity in our hobby. When we begin a restoration, the first thing we search for in our documentation process is an original car. The knowledge to be gained by inspecting and documenting these cars is invaluable. We have gone to auctions simply to buy the discarded components from other's restorations, to give you some idea as to how much we value authenticity. Thankfully, others in our hobby are now coming around in their appreciation of unrestored, original cars, in part thanks to the AACA's HPOF class. Some years ago I sold my 1920 Stutz, Series H, 7-pass. Touring, with less that 20,000 orig. miles. It was a truly magnificent original car. I believed that the new owner wanted the car to use for touring and felt he would preserve it as is. About a year later I was sent a photo of the "restored" car. While the restoration was nice, and it certainly looked flashy in it's new red color, it just didn't have the appeal it did when it wore it's original dark green paint and it's almost perfect brown spanish grain leather interior, at least to me. I'm not in a position to criticize the new owner. He paid the price for the car, and it's anyone's right to do as they please with their own property. But, a car can only be original once, and once you change/restore it, it's never the same again. The loss to our history can never be reclaimed. It's your choice, and a properly restored car is a thing to be appreciated, but maybe this will give you something more to consider before making a committment one way or the other. A final thought; if you really do want a restored car, you might consider selling this one to someone that would enjoy it as is, and locating a completed car. I will almost certainly be less expensive that restoring this one, unless you are able to do almost all of the work yourself. Good luck with your Stutz.

Hi, Just noticed you post. I agree with you desire for something other than cast iron for your u-bolts. However I am not aware of any source for new forged u-bolts. In our restoration shop we have fought this battle for years. Other than searching the flea markets, we never found any sources. Finally we tried casting our own, but in ductile, instead of cast iron. Thus far we've had no problems. The casting process is much less expensive that forging, and generally easier to have done, unless you've got a friendly in a a forging shop. You might want to consider it.

Hello, I've had some past experience with these cars and can say that under normal circumstances they are excellent starting and running vehicles. Given what you've done thus far, a few additional items come to mind. You don't say whether you've checked compression? It's possible that you are dealing with stuck rings or valves (due to the extended storage. This would certainly be one cause for the dry plugs, even after extended cranking. Did you pre-lube the cylinders before attempting start-up? Any vehicle that has sat for some years will probably have dry cylinders, and this would also cause low compression, hence lack of vacume. Another possible problem could be any of the manifold gaskets that could have become dried and/or cracked which would be another source of lost vacume. A final matter could be the carburator itself. Did you take it down and check all internal orafices. Old dried gas can clog small openings, and while the bowl itself is full, that doesn't necessairily mean that fuel is getting through to the main air passage(s) for proper atomization. Best of luck. If I can be of any other help feel free to write back.

Forgot to list my email to contact me regarding any franklin parts. It's marern@adelphia.net Thanks

I would suggest that you contact Greg Tocket at The Cadillac Shop www.thecadillacshop.com He makes excellent baskets, custom made to your specs., authentic pantosote lining, all hardwood framing, etc. You won't be disappointed!

I am in the process of making new clutch discs for my 1910 model G Franklin. All research to date seems to indicate that the same discs were used on all 1910 models, ie. G-D-H (although different numbers of discs). Possibly the same discs were also used for other years/models. If anyone can supply any additional data I would like to know. If you are interested in acquiring some please contact me too.

Needed to complete project for this car: Dash mounted oil pump, several hubcaps, Solar 932 sidelamps (especially need a good font), correct early style Bosch magneto switch, gas "on-off-reserve" valve, gas tank or pattern/data to fabricate one, driveshaft, brass body sill plates. Just made new cast aluminum front floor boards & I have one extra set left!