gungeey

I have one sitting that I got from NAPA, maybe 25 bucks. Regards, Steve PS Is this Chip?

Good luck with your new Riviera! I hope it serves you well.Steve

I have a friend that repairs them for me, but if it weren't for him I'de try here: http://clocksandgauges.com/gpage.html $51 with a video and parts...Steve

Dizzy Dale is right on. Wax and grease remover will take it off like baby food from a bib

I've used Intercity a number of times. Always good to me. During my most recent contract, however, Intercity had raised theit prices considerably. Before committing I shopped a bit and found others hundreds cheaper. I ended up using Intercity because of my very good history with them. The car arrived fine, and when shooting the breeze the driver confided to me that he had experienced both Intercity and Horseless Carriage. In his mind, from a consumers standpoint there was no difference in either company. The same care was taken etc, but a 20% cost savings with Horseless would have me use them next time. Steve

You are correct. The closeup I posted is a '65. Buick moved the trim that year to a lower spot below the rear window. This has zero bearing on the topic! We are talking about the yellow cars "extention" of the roofs flared end! The C-pillar is the same on all the years of the 1st generation Rivs! Here's another pic. Yes a 63, but it won't matter if wearing rose colored glasses! PS: You said it yourself " Snow might of dripped into the trunk when it was opened to take the picture"...how does snow get on a garaged car? PSII: Have your pal grab a corner of the rear bumper and swing the car firmly left to right...rusted body mount perches will have a metal to metal scrape..peel back front and rear carpets under front seat..still no indication of heavy rust elsewhere, need to go through it thoroughly, as in 2-3 hrs...Good luck, Steve!

Here's another car..same area. See the difference? Look how much more elongated the yellow car's flare is behind the spear. You can even see a wave in the slathered bondo where it tapers! I read through this post and a few things leave me weary: Garaged? Sure looks like it was in it's current spot for the last snow, don't you think??! Also a water drip smack dab in the middle of the trunk mat tells me when the snow melted it gets into the trunk through the window channel, like everybody has been saying...usually the conners of the window are worst, but we know they've been remedied with a generous dose of filler.(Besides, if they silicon the plainly viewed painted areas, God only knows what's going on behind those rear window mouldings!!) Also the rust at the trunk wheelwells (where the wheelwells meet the trunk floor), bet I could jam a screwdriver through to the rear springs there.Also, The factory put a tarpaper mat under the trunk liner. Water gets in, never gets out.. If you're in the ROA get a member versed in the 63-5's to see the car. If not I would suggest backing away from this one unless you can get the full lowdown. Not saying the seller is unscrupulous...some people just don't pay much attention.. Steve

Where's the car?

I always found it interesting that the compact car ST300 (2 speed auto) had "switch the pitch" torque blades in 64 yet the Full Size TH400 didn't. The 64 Super Turbine 400 had a detent for downshift, but no stator "switch the pitch" feature til 65. I think your right in that 67 was the last of them. Steve

All the 65's got them. There should be a data plate rivited on the side of your transmission. You have to crawl way under there to find it. Likely says "BS" stamped on the tag.. What you need is a Chassis Service manual. It'll walk you through adjusting your switch step by step and help you greatly to better understand your machine in general.. Hell, you might not even have the switch on there anymore,..or maybe the mounting bracket is loose or maybe the wires going down to the trans solenoid are frayed,or the plug's hanging off.. or maybe your carbs not setup properly and not opening enough. Also, after about 70MPH you won't get the downshift any more...Anyway, the picture attached shows the correct style stator and detent ("kickdown switch") for your car. It also wouldn't hurt if you made pals with someone local that is somewhat of a veteran in dealing with these cars, either through the BCA or ROA. Most car guys are "hands on" more than typists.. but the best investment is ther manual.Have fun, Steve

MY THEORY: That's where the power brake vacuum canister would be bolted down up to 63. The '64 cars carried on with them as there was no major model change on the full-size cars. I believe only the Riviera still used the same inner fender wells in 65. All the others had a big makeover..Steve

I strongly advise using caution when dealing with that ebay seller. He has taken advantage of many Riviera Owners Assoc. members in the past and was forced to leave the club some time ago. Steve

Joe, Absolutely! Please realize you can also put them up here, i bet lots of folks would like to see the new baby...anyway, email is gun-G@excite.com . Steve

Joe, this car is currently on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1 While not perfect, it gives a pretty good idea as to what factory looks like. The deck material is a foam backed burlap weave material. Grey cardboard surrounds. Of course, the spare should be covered with the same burlap material, so should the exposed wheel wells. You might want to know that all these parts (bulk material, tire cover, cardboard surrounds)are readily available aftermarket for about $350. In my opinion, this is the least of your concerns. Check for rust under front seats, inside door jambs, front fender doglegs lower rear quarters, body mounts up near spring perches and on shelf under mat just behind taillights, lower corners on rear window (with a paint depth gauge or magnet)and interior window channel. Check for condition of body mounts (missing or severely cracked)and battery tray (which is tack welded in on these cars)...Also, you might join the ROA ( www.rivowners.org )..Hope she's a beauty! Steve

Looking for a real nice set of used door edge guards, something I can mount on close to a #2 car. A few minor kisses or scuffs is the limit, though...I have two beat up sets already! ( Which, if anybody wants a driver set they can have for postal cost).. My zip for your set is 01778 for shipping. You can get back to me w/ price at gun-G@excite.com , THANK YOU! Steve

Looking for a real nice set of used door edge guards, something I can mount on close to a #2 car. A few minor kisses or scuffs is the limit, though...I have two beat up sets already! ( Which, if anybody wants a driver set they can have for postal cost).. My zip for your set is 01778 for shipping. You can get back to me w/ price at gun-G@excite.com , THANK YOU! Steve

Try www.then-now.com . They specialize in pump rebuilding kits for today's fuel. Steve

Thanks all, A member emailed me off list and took care of me...Thanks, Steve

Thanks for the tipI'll do that. Regards, Steve

You know, the triangle bottle in the engine bay? Anybody got a dirty ole bottle hanging around that'll clean up..don't even need the cap! Thanks, Steve

www.p-s-t.com

Must be PIT FREE. Ready to mount on a high end driver. No glass OK. Please include price with shipping and your address for payment. I will check back here or faster would be direct to me at: gun-G@excite.com Thanks, Steve

Looking for 63 riv drivers door mirror...what is condition of yours if available? Thanks

I just spray the whole piece then wipe off the fins when the paint is almost dry with an old t-shirt slightly dampened in lacquer thinner, urethane reducer etc..Steve

There's a correct set for a 65/66 on ebay now: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...me=STRK:MESE:IT Steve