gungeey

That's for a Super Wildcat engine, I believe it fits a few other cars, too...Chevy 409 2x4 comes to mind...looks like a nice one...rust free they fetch about $350 on ebay..if it has a cut hole in the side it would be for a 65 California car. Looks like you are missing the special knurled acorn nut that goes with it...if that's the case let me know via email, i can help you out.

The top ten list I think, will directly coincide with the top ten stolen cars...an exception being the Civic and it's younger driver base, Steve

401 and 425 share the same heads,too(I hear some '66s had the beginnings of a smog design).Camshafts different, at least for the SuperWildcat(425 w/2x4bbls). 401 and 425 same block core, thicker sleeve and bigger bore on 425 for additional 25cu.in....same rods,crank,etc,etc With the 425, Buick had reached the limits of the nailhead design.

I alwys liked the rear distributor (as in my nailhead). The front mounted distributor (as in my 64 Skylark) tends to have a habit of getting wet in the rain. Of course we don't tend to worry about these things, as, for the most part, our old buicks aren't daily drivers.Steve

Get yourself a vacuum gauge, hook it up to a convenient vacuum source on the intake manifold. Bottom idle mixture screws, back out 1.5 turns. now, with engine running and vacuum guage hooked up, adjust screws evenly to highest vacuum.Steve

Are you telling me people would stand by and choose to be uninvolved in the "Early Years"as a car thumped down the road with a clump of cast iron attached to a wheel..an obvious sign of theft... and the owners would follow the repetative holes dug up by the prongs in search of their missing vehicle?? Not only do the thieves sound like fools, so do the townfolk!! The only ones missing are the Keystone Cops!Where the hell is the chauffeur?!! The man should be strung up by his thumbs! What are we paying him for? He must be in cahoots with the vermin!! Why,...if I ever find those hooligans.... Popular? This device was POP u lar? A lead pipe must have been a sensation! Ahh, progress..

Good luck and I hope your surprise pans out...the car owners on this sight have interest in much older cars...here is a source that may be able to help you: Crescent City Cruisers #119 1612 N. Starrett Rd. Metairie, LA 70003-5748 Contact : Walter Farrell (504) 467-3451

Aren't the spares on those oldies on the runningboards/fenders? Those car thiefs mustn't have put a lot of energy or thought into their profession to not work around THAT problem....Sounds like there was more of a chance of the car owner getting maimed or impaled with the contraption. Imagine the lawsuits if that were to fly off a wheel in todays world! Perhaps it locked on the steering wheel, ... the culprit would have to disembowel himself to make a 3 point turn! Say are you sure this wasn't purchased at an Adult Toy Store? Don't mind me...not enough sleep ... Steve

can't help you personally,, but have seen this topic on this site recently, you can run a search at the top of the page.

1963 and '64 Buicks used Silver paint...a bright shiny silver...I have nothing but high regards for this vendor (below), the catalog prices: ITEM Part # Price Qt can EP-614 $30.25 12 oz spray EP-614S $8.50 I use their phone number= 1-908-369-3666 (ask for "Tony"...nice guy) www.oldbuickparts.com Hope I'm not insulting you by suggesting Buick paint! Good Luck, Steve

I don't know if I'd recommend the plastic wrap idea...it will keep the moisture outside,it keeps the moisture inside, too.I think it's better to use the plastic under the car if moisture coming up is a problem (though if we're winterizing, most areas would have the ground frozen, unless a heated garage...must be nice).Car on jackstands,washed/waxed with a cover, mothballs inside ( 3 0r 4 boxes..opened and in paint roller trays)Full tank of gas with Stabil. I always tried to get a final wash well before it was time to put away, figuring if I waited til Nov/Dec, it would never completely dry, just freeze, thaw, freeze and thaw... I put a 12" house fan on once or twice a week for a few hours to get air moving on dry days to prevent buildup of condensation. I change the oil so any contaminated oil doesn't get a chance to sludge. I remove the spark plugs and squirt some WD-40 followed by a couple shots of engine oil from a can, then reinstall the plugs finger tight and crank the engine a second to swish it around, then get the battery out of the car...store it on wood, not cement as cement will leech power from the cell..In the spring remove the plugs, add a squirt of oil and spin the engine 10-15 seconds or so a few times with a little break in between for the starter to cool off. I've read people oil the bottom of their floorpans (undercarriage), but have never done it. I figured the next year, dirt would collect on the oil and then that buildup would be a breeding ground for rust eventually. Someone else mentioned sticky fly paper around the tires (or stands if car is lifted) to help against mice...sounds like cheap insurance. Steve

The early to mid 60's Buicks are HOT right now, they happen to be some of my favorites.Matter of fact, 63 Wildcat is probably #3 on my desire list. That car has a dynaflow in it, as long as its the orig engine and AT.Check it out like you would any old car. See that all systems are complete...A/C, coolant,steering, etc . Deduct for needed work, and don't get emotional about the Wildcat until After the buy! Treat it like any major purchase...there ARE others available. Better to pay more and get the ready to roll product as opposed to buying a gem in the rough(a car like that can cost $6-7K for a quality paint job!!)...the bills on a PERFECT one will add up quickly enough!!Steve

I remember the decal on my '85 LeSabre(w/307) didn't have quite the complete map you need. It shows the routing of the major vacuum lines. I can clearly remember this because there was a vacuum line at the rear of the carb, along with a few others, that was left undone by a "PRO" mechanic at some point to pass a state emissions test. the underhood diagram didn't illustrate every detail...in other words, wasn't exactly a snapshot of the engine compartment...besides, your local salvage yard must have a dozen of this car readily available to view the sticker and perhaps the vacuum routing. My suggestion: undo the EGR valve and tap it with a plastic hammer to loosen up all the carbon in there...don't put it in a vice...while it's off ram a coat hanger down the passages on the intake and see if they're clogged.Steve

Try riviera60s@aol.com That's "Larry Daisey" . He should have it...nice guy all around. Tell him Steve from Mass. sent you! If that doesn't work out let us know.Steve

What you do is loosen up the lug nuts(and wheel bearing nuts on front wheels) a tad and turn the wheels back and forth. For back drums go forward and reverse a couple inches. All done one at a time. They may break from the rust effortlessly. Steve

Yes, and if we were both in your imaginary country, you would be currently in the village stockade with an apple in your mouth, had I my wish. (Un)fortunately, your remarks are fully off topic for an automobile discussion board. I would suggest your contacting me directly in regards to my current citizenship, if you deem it necessary. Please spend the balance of the weekend preparing your position, and above all...do legitimate research this time, because in it's current form, your ignorance is unsightly.

Hi...I'm another burping whiney newbie that wouldn't know my "classic Ass" from a "vintage Elbow" , but Here's my slant on this recurring discussion: A) A car can be "ORIGINAL" only once. Once altered, it's a replica. Why can't a car be "RESTORED" if the Suspension, Wiring, Trim, Upholstery, Paint, Underbody, Steering, Exhaust, ETC ETC ETC is completely rebuilt with new, but two bolts in the Trunk, which are in fine condition, are left alone? Has it then been only "FIXED"? C) If on this same car (with the two final trunk bolts completely "Restored"), a rock chip takes it's toll on the right front fender, and the nick is repaired, does the whole car have to then be restored all over again? Or is it just "FIXED"? D) If a bear drives a POS in the woods and it backfires, does anybody hear it? E) It would be nice to have a setting within this forum, so the "CLASSIC ANAL GUY" can be ignored by this poster. There are so many interesting, valuable exchanges here, it seems a shame to have them downgraded.... As one petulant poster has stated..."you have to respect the right of someone ELSE to make fun of you, if what you say is nonsence." [Their spelling error]. To that I respond that when the crowd gets irritated enough with this, they will turn into an angry mob."Have" to Respect?The "RIGHT"? To be made fun of? Now THAT is foolish gibberish. Where is that Damned "IGNORE" button?

As long as the gas hasn't been sitting for a year...bolt it back together and start her up!

try 72boattail@cox.net Doug, in AZ may be able to help you.Honest and good prices...Tell him Steve from Mass. Sent you

Exterior A=Regal Black C=Arctic White D=Astro Blue E=Midnight Blue H=Seafoam Green J=Verde Green K=Turquoise Mist L=Midnight Aqua N=Burgandy Mist R=Flame Rd S=Sahara Mist T=Champagne Mist V=Shell Beige Y=Bamboo Cream Z=Silver Cloud Interior 9178-LH Dark Saddle Semi-Gloss 9199-LH Dark Saddle Flat 4621-L Silver Semi-Gloss 9174-LH Dark grey Semi-Glss 9195-LH Dark Grey Flat 4633-L Med. Green Semi-Gloss 9225-LH Dark Green Flat 4634-LH Midnight Green Flat 9226-LH Dark Green Semi-Gloss 4628-L Med Turqoise Semi-Gloss 9176-LM Dark Turqoise Semi-Gloss 9197-LH Dark Turqoise Flat 4630-L Md Blue Semi Gloss 9172-LH Dark Blue Semi-Gloss 9194-LH Dark Blue Flat 9183-LM Red Semi-Gloss 4625-LH Med Red Semi-Gloss 9181-LM Dark Red Semi-Gloss 9201-LM Dark Red Flat 88 Black Semi- Gloss 4428-L Black Flat Hope it helps!

in Very Good Condition. These differ from the fender scripts I'll check for responses here or email me at gun-G@excite.com Thanks, Steve

Your policy fits mine to a "T". Fix it while it's running, keep the original part as a spare.. If I'm going to be working on a certain area (drivers side front engine compartment, for example) everything in harms way gets the make-over. As far as gas mileage...my 2x4bbl gets about 13mpg around town, as long as I'm easy on the gas pedal...if you want to have a little excitement, well, it's gonna cost ya! I find the gas gauge works in direct correlation to the speedomter!Teh more the speedometer goes up, the faster the gas gauge goes down. Another consideration is not only the MPG but the type of gas used. My '64 Skylark (9.0:1 compression) used Regular, but the 65 Riv (10.25:1) DEMANDS sunoco 94...plus a ¼ bottle of TEL..That adds up quick. A fun afternoon of driving will easily cost $20...worth every penny, but to run errands on a regular basis at that rate? Ouch.

Just a suggestion...why not use the offset paper for articles in the beginning of your magazine, continuations at the end. In the center spread insert a single signature (say, a 16 page) of glossy stock for your photo shoots. Most of your readers likely enjoy the coated papers because it adds realism to the color photos. Combine this with the plain paper for type along with a glossy cover and you'de have the best of both worlds...high quality artwork displays with decreased printing (offset paper is substantially cheaper and lighter)and mailing costs. Steve

The point is your original post tells us of compression readings as low as 65 and 70lbs. All the new carbs in the world won't fix that! Your compression tester is junk. No harm done... just sent us off on a wild goosechase.STeve

Plus, do us all a favor and put your compression tester under your drivers side front wheel just before your next trip!