nearchoclatetown

The 9625 should be the date code. 9-6-25.

The easiest is to go to General section and put "reproduction distributor cap" in the search. It's the same guys that sell the ignition parts at Hershey, Old Buicks. They explain that the molds for the caps are between 10 and 40 thousand each and they may only sell 100 to 150 caps of each style. A friend spent a lot of time trying to find someone to make new points. He finally found someone that would do it. I THINK the minimum order was 10,000 sets. So NOS points are worth the price. The reconditioned condensers are hit or miss whether they are good or not.

You may want to look up top here and read a thread started by Peter R. about reproduction distributor caps.

That DA touring body would be a rarity in the US. Very few of them. And it looks in good condition.

It's yours to do with what you want, you paid for it. But this is like walking into Grandma's house for Thanksgiving and pulling down your pants to show off your new snake eyes tattoo. It's not the time or place here. There are lots of hotrod sites that will appreciate what you are doing.

It's good there is finally adult supervision. Things will be done right now.

Or why not have a mold built to mold new caps and rotors like they have done? About 15-18 years ago I had a mold priced out to make new caps for injection molding with plastic. Estimate was around $10000 and that did not include the inserts or actually making the caps. No idea what it would cost to make a real bakelite cap like Tom has. And then sell maybe 100 or 150 of them?

Jan, Tom and Cindy Myers owns one of the best screensides I know of. Ask them. Another is powerwagon guy in Calif. if you know him. Another very correct one.

Old Buicks does a big service to the antique community. He and his partner make parts for cars of several different makes that are available no where else. He does a good business at Hershey from what I have seen. I have bought from him and will again. I know lots of DB people that have bought from him and are happy. Yes, bawl babies can whine that the parts are expensive. It's not like you have to change ignition parts like you do motor oil.

Fantastic. How about a '27 DB woodie, but it's in Maryland?

Dave, I THINK it is close to the Latrobe Cream in Matt's post. Cartouche if I remember was used on several different makes of cars. There is actually an original paint coach on line right now. I will see if I can send it to you. I used One Shot light yellow for my pinstripe and I like it. Those color charts and names back then can be confusing, like the gold. No comment on the fingers. I know I would not eat with them.

I think the A in GA is for Australia, that's what Matt told me.

AACA rules say the threads are bare for the head bolts, because the head was put on after painting. That will never fly when Ron sees it.

And I don't think Simms was ever used on domestic DBs.

Magneto or distributor, should be a Delco. Did you do anything between then and now?

What caused the water leak at #3 exhaust?

I guess this has something to do with the discussion, but I don't know how.

One of the hand holes would be behind the S/G. The other would have the oil fill attached to it behind the carb. The acorn bolts are correct as are the primer cups. I've only seen one of the one piece valve covers.

Thanks for that explanation. I will see if my numbers show up on a picture. They are faint. 4900 is pretty early. Do you still have the hand holes on driver's side of engine? Could have one piece valve cover but probably not?

So how did they find the number using a battery charger? Did it say CAR in front of the number?

Looks like you are from down under? Study your manual, maybe even look at a Master Parts Book. But take plenty of good pictures from down at the steering box of the linkage. Have someone move the levers and study, make notes of what does what and what moves.

Matt, I think it was an article in Beaded Wheels that gave me the idea you had to belong to a club to get antique insurance.

We don't know how lucky we are here in the US. Most states have antique license, PA. being lifetime registration with limited driving. We can drive for club events and one day a week for pleasure, no night time driving without sealed beams. Only lights required are what was factory, so legally pre -22 don't need brake lights. But no inspection, which allows many POS cars on the road that are nothing more then parts cars. My Light Repair Truck only has a kerosene tail light and kerosene cowl lights, no headlights.

First, do both fenders have a panel that would keep slop from the tires from hitting the gas tank? Small triangle piece maybe 9 inches on the long side? They started in '18. I have seen cars known to be not wrecked or pieced together that have the same difference in rear fenders as yours. Most have been older cars, like '16 or so. Don't get excited yet.

Matt, if I understand correctly you need to belong to a club to get discount antique insurance too. Is that correct? A friend in NZ said he was not allowed any rust to get registered. And all welds were inspected, even on the body. Could not be ground before inspection.