Restorer32

We have put over 100000 miles on our '99 Dodge Cummins Turbo Diesel towing a trailer weighing 4000# loaded with vehicles up to 6000#. Best tow vehicle I've had in 30 years of restoring and hauling. Best part is, even towing a trailer with a 6000# car loaded we average about 14 mpg. In my opinion the weight of the towing vehicle is more important that wheelbase. Our Dodge Extended Cab weighs 7000#. I would never try to tow extensively with anything other than a standard trans but that's just me. My only complaint is that the space between 3rd and 4th gear is too big. My Son has a newer 6 speed which solves that problem nicely. For year I was strictly a Ford man until my Son talked me into the Dodge. For my money it is the perfect tow vehicle. Expensive to work on but what isn't these days?

You can purchase high precision bearing balls from McMaster Carr Supply in sizes from 1/16" to 1".

Does anyone know of an online downloadable max torque chart for unhardened bolts as used before engine specific torque specs were commonly available? We have the usual Engineering Handbooks but it would be nice to just print a chart and post it for my newest mechanic on board. Thanks!

Thursday evening I crossed the Canadian border into the US with a 1915 Milburn Electric. The customs officers on duty, all under 40 or so, had a problem dealing with a car with no official VIN but finally relinquished when I showed them the 5 digit vehicle # on the frame and passed me thru. I don't think they believed me when I told them that official VINs were not required before the '70s.

You are only an orphan until you reach the age of majority, usually considered to be 18. After that age you are just an adult whose parents have died. Therefore I would define an orphan car as a car that was cast out by its parents before it was fully developed and could fend for itself.

To quote from my 1922 Dykes Manual "An orphan car is one which is no longer being manufactured". They then go on to list several hundred sources of parts for "orphaned cars". Those of you working on an AMERICAN UNDERSLUNG are directed to the American Motor Parts Co in Indianapolis. For parts for a CINCO contact Auto Salvage Co in Kansas City.

Harold Sharon is an absolutely brilliant man and has an extraordinary way of explaining complex engineering theories so that they are understandable to non engineer types. His seminars at Philly were always a highlight for me. I highly recommend his book as a basic primer in automotive engineering.

Dad was a big guy and always drove used Cadillacs. I remember a '53, a '61, a '63 and a '71. I learned to drive in the '63 Coupe Deville and remember many memorable evenings at the Drive In movies in that car. Dad was in the tire biz and advertised at the theatre so there were always free passes available. My first car was a '60 Corvair 4 Door Automatic with hideous faded blue paint and Pep Boys seat covers. Even driving that beast I was still able to get dates!

Relax Pete, I was just rattling your cage a bit. We all know you have a way sometimes of antagonizing folks with your opinions. Obviously you are very knowledgeable but sometimes I think you are probably the only man who was ever punched by Dale Carnegie.

As much as I dislike agreeing with Pete Hartmann he is correct. If you look at an original manifold closely you will see that it was originally a green so dark that it appears black to most eyes, mine included. By the way Pete, even the lowly 900 Light 8 had porcelainized manifolds.

Had a similar problem a few years ago with a customer's truck. Turns out, using the "if one can is good, more is better" theory, he had overdosed his engine with oil stabilizer products. This effect was seen in cold weather though.

Our limited experience with powder coated parts has been very frustrating. We are currently finishing reassembling a '33 Cadillac that came to us partially "restored". The previous owner had the frame and suspension powder coated. We have found that nearly every screw hole in the frame that was not protected from the powder must be retapped. We have also discovered that it is near impossible to remove those bolts and screws that were in place when the frame was powder coated. Trying to use penetrating fluid is useless as the threads are effectively "sealed" by the coating. Also can't use heat as this would destroy the finish. We have had to drill out about a dozen bolts and retap the threads where bolts were left in place, apparently in an attempt to protect the threads. A careless "restorer" can do more damage in a shorter amount of time with powder coating than with paint. Just our experience, yours may vary.

Some things you just hate to scrap. Son dragged home a 1974 International Loadstar 1600 tilt bed farm truck just to get the hydraulics for some project of his. We sure hate to scrap the excellent runningboards, perfect grill and non-cracked fiberglass tilt front end. Front bumper is also nice and straight. All parts available CHEAP! I told him this hulk has to disappear in 2 weeks so if anyone has any interest let us know.

Likely there is a street rodding forum that could better answer your questions.

THANKS FOR THE REMINDER!!!! <span style="font-weight: bold"> </span>

Years ago we replaced a head gasket on a '16 Pullman with a Gardner-Belknap and Swartz engine(GB&S). To quote more or less verbatim from the operator's manual; "Tighten the head bolts snugly but be certain to stop just before the bolts break". Good advice even after all these years.

I don't believe the manifold studs will hold up to 62 ft. lbs. torque. Head bolts yes, manifold no.

Now that's funny!

We recently bought a new windshield for a '55 Special convertible from Bob's Classic Auto Glass. Very knowledgeable and reasonably quick service. Mo affiliation, just a satisfied customer.

Groovy, let's paint some peace signs on 'er, strap our surfboards on top, get the wives to toss out their bras and we'll fire up a joint and head for the coast. Surf's up!

For relaxation I go out back and work on my 1976 26' Stamas Twin Engine Sportfisher that I have been doing a ground up (water up?) restoration on for the last 5 years. Mrs Restorer and I enjoy taking weekend trips, which always seem to involve me judging an AACA meet. She is not a car person so occasionally we have to do what SHE enjoys. Now that the grandkids have started popping they keep her pretty well occupied. I am blessed to have been able to make a decent (usually) living doing what I enjoy. Best part of the business is meeting and working for all types of folks from all types of backgrounds. There are some real characters involved with antique cars. I hope I live long enough to actually restore one of my own cars.

I do so hate to pull an empty trailer. Last call, any takers? Will be delivering a '33 Cad 12 cyl limo to Mass and fetching a '15 Milburn Electric in Ottawa. Our schedule is a bit flexible and temporary storage could be provided at this end if necessary.

Brockway used a 4 cylinder Wisconsin in 1923. I'm not sure if it was a T head though. This may be newer than what you need? Excellent engines, very well built and powerful for its size.

After getting my undergrad degree in Archaeology/Anthropology I spent 5 years in a PhD program at the Univ of Pa in Anthropology/South Asian Studies. In 1977 two things happened simultaneously, all of my fellowship money was sucked into the Vietnam thing and I realized that I was not single minded enough to make it in academics. Only other thing I wanted to do was restore cars. I grew up around tools and equipment and was good with my hands. I rented a bldg and began restoring strictly as a hobby. It almost immediately became a business and now I've been restoring professionally for 30 years. I consider what I do to be "Industrial Archaeology". My Son came into the business after high school. Life is good!

I too find it hard to believe that an A-400 was not recognized at an AACA National meet.