ghostymosty

Not as a system, you will have to determine what parts of it you need and then find those parts. Example of parts; accumulator, pump, wheel sensors, calipers (for rear you will need to get the ones you have rebuilt), abs computer (rarely bad).

Sacramento won't meet the criteria, my electric Nissan Leaf has a range of 60 miles with the a/c or heater running so 30 to see a car and 30 back is my limit. David in Riverside, CA The right TC can park in my driveway again. White, black, or red with ginger and a V6 within 30 miles of me. I am also a cheapskate when setting a value on a TC since most need a lot of little costly repairs for things their owners have gotten used to and now overlook. This white one was relisted twice on ebay and the last time down to 3500 starting bid, got the starting bid (from someone else) and sold with no other bids. I probably would have gone up to 4000 if the seller had just answered my questions instead of answering me with an Attitude Grande and no information.

If you are changing the entire assembly it is only a few bolts and the wiring. The whole thing adjusts up/down with the bolts so a grease pencil mark as a guide for installing the replacement would be wise, you will still need to get the adjustment right so the tops pins latch easily while getting the weatherstrip to seal at the body/top joining.

That interior would be turquois, considered to be in the blue family of colors during the 60's. The late 70's saw a change to teal instead which was considered in the green family of colors. The blue colors would fade out and make the turquois start looking much more green, just like red would look more orange as it faded and copper would start looking more like coral.

That auction ended and the seller took the best offer he could get, but NOT 7500. These sales are what skew the numbers and no one but buyer and seller ever know the actual sales amount. Maybe someone here made an offer and didn't get the car so can say what the car 'got more than' .

I think that is just the speed alert needle, the orange needle should be the actual speedometer indicator. Go past 80 and the car will let you know it!

1973 required 5mph front bumpers and 2 1/2 mph rear bumpers on all cars, (1974 changed to 5mph bumpers on rear for all cars). Those huge rubber bumper guards on the front and rear accomplished this in a strictly full on frontal or rear collision but not in an angled collision. I think the government realized they needed to change the 'letter of the law' for 1974 to get car companies to meet the actual intent of the law that was skirted in 1973. Same thing with the side lights required for 1968 being changed to having to be visible on a parked car in 1969 and then changed in 1970 to being both a light and reflector in the law, Chrysler Corp was the biggest law skirter in 1968 with lights and no reflectors and 1969 with reflectors and no lights.

1991 Chrysler TC Maserati | eBay Seller doesn't exactly say much about this particular car, (white/ginger in Agoura Hills, CA) just about TC in general. He may just be hesitant judging by his ebay feedback as a seller and is probably a dealer or flipper and I seem to have rubbed him the wrong way by the way I asked questions. I can't go see the car myself but it is the combo I am looking for so don't want to give up completely but the feedback and auto check report are a little unnerving (many failed smog checks and no miles for quite a few years) and make me think the car needs too much to get it back on the road reliably for me. His comment to me that it hasn't needed a smog check because it has been in storage for 3 years doesn't make me any more comfortable either, but the engine pics show that it wasn't neglected completely by a previous owner so maybe maintenance was taken care of before the storage started. If anyone has looked at the car and decided they didn't want it can they fill me in on details please. If not I will let this one slide on by for sure. The auction number is 133698671462 in case the link doesn't work.

The engine computer should compensate for lower grade fuels. If you constantly open up the turbo then premium is really what you should run. Why let the computer diminish performance from using regular (unless no problem is detected, such as a higher octane regular grade than some people can get) when you want to experience 'spirited' driving excitement. I ran regular in my V6 car and never noticed a difference on the rare occasion I put in premium but I did mostly in town driving with the occasional highway onramp, but with no turbo and an engine that runs very cool by design I didn't expect any difference.

That 89 price sticker is the first one I've seen correctly listing the 8 speaker sound system instead of listing it as 10 speakers. I don't remember but maybe 2 of the rear speakers have 2 cones in them and each cone was counted as a separate speaker?

And these TC's for sale at high prices have been for sale at the same dealerships for YEARS! If you want to see the real selling prices just look them up on Ebay and then go down the left side menu for 'completed items'. You will see high priced TC's as completed auctions with no sale, or if they show as sold you will see them relisted over and over again and completed as sold each time. The actually sold TC's will normally run in the 2500 to 3500 range for ordinary condition and miles, the 3500 to 4500 range for really nice examples, and pristine with low verifiable miles anywhere up to 6500 with the perfect ones maybe getting to 8500. The ones that have bad paint, lousy leather, and running/brake issues go from 500 to 1500 depending on how bad they are. 16 valve get the highest values, 8 valve are next and the v6 (which I prefer for daily driving) are at the bottom of values. Color combo and location play a huge part in sales of these cars, the combo a buyer is looking for, in a location close to them, will bring more money than the combo that is 'settled for' or has to be shipped.

I think that was the reasoning behind adding STP to engine oil, keeping a film of oil on bearing surfaces reduces that 'start up wear'. Thicker oil remains on the parts longer but you want it to be able to thin out as it heats up, hence the advent of multi-viscosity oils (10W30, 10W40, etc).

And to me the salvage title (assumed) would drop the value to about 1/4 of a clean title. Never understood why some people buy a salvage title vehicle and fix to sell expecting the same value as a clean title. If it was already your own car and you fix after a total to keep driving it, then it makes sense but you need to understand the value is killed to anyone else.

Do a search on this forum for the third light fix. Basically, all bulbs ground through a metal strip which has a riveted ground wire to the harness. The rivet gets loose and all bulbs lose their ground. Access to the bulbs and strip is by taking the whole light off of the tonneau cover (screws under the weatherstrip) and then disassembling from underneath (I think, it HAS been a long time). When I did mine I just added a ground wire from the rivet to a bulb connection and all was well, better to actually replace the rivet for a tight connection. edit....put a towel on trunk lid to keep the 3rd light from scratching paint!

Which light is out? Each taillight has 2 bulbs, one for taillamp and one for brake (different # for each one). The reflector on the trunk lid does not have any bulbs. The third brake light (by roof) has multiple bulbs but if all are out it is usually a metal strip problem inside the housing. What takes the 6 amp fuse?

I like my electric Leaf, two plus years of ownership and I've put wiper blades and two tires on it, but it is uninspiring to drive unless I count the great torque from a standstill that can put me back in the seat unless I have the limiter engaged (eco mode). Just went from 10 bars to 9 bars and still have a 70 mile range. Hence the limit on looking for a TC only within 30 miles of me! Just retired from my job and might want to go farther than the range so a gas powered vehicle is in my future with the electric for store trips. And if you haven't tried a Tesla S in ludicrous mode then you don't know what driving really is!

The non letter 300 replaced the Saratogo model in 1962, the Windsor was still around until that name was replaced by the Newport which had originally designated a hardtop (no post) style in Windsor, Saratoga, New Yorker, and Imperial models.

I was working at a parts store when you could still get wiper inserts for Anco and Trico instead of having to buy whole blades every time. I noticed that hardly any wiper inserts or blades sold unless it was pouring rain outside. One of the first questions I would ask is if the car had ever had the entire blade replaced especially with Bosch items. If not then the choice on inserts was either wide or narrow and what kind of clip to hold it on the blade, if so then it was whole blade replacement time again. Then there were the ones who claimed to have never changed the whole blade but the car was sitting outside with the double blade wipers on it, I hated those useless things.

My friend who was a transmission rebuilder for the local Chrysler dealer informed me that most of the early trans failures could be attributed to top offs done by people who used non Mopar fluid of the incorrect type. This would usually destroy these transmissions in a short time. When he rebuilt these transmissions he would educate the owners about the correct fluid and do the wire snip on the very early transmission controllers, he never had one of these come back to him with problems. He would also never use any aftermarket fluid in these transmissions. The original owner of my triple black TC was very concerned about reports of early transmission failures so had my friend put a later model crate transmission in the TC (and the wire snip). I never once had a problem with that transmission.

The rear seats look like standard New Yorker pattern while the front look like 300 pattern. The front seats were likely swapped.

I can remember 'HOT PINK' being quite the thing around the late 60's and very early 70's. Not quite so much in cars, though.

Could be Mary Kay, right shade of pink. At the auction I work at (til next monday) all pink Mary Kay Cadillacs are required to be repainted white before they can be put in a sale. This one has lots of pink overspray on the wiper area and a black engine compartment and tonneau but a white hardtop so any claims of original paint for rarity can just be thrown out the window.

If I remember correctly, those two switches are the exact same as the door lock switches. Possibly the same as the window switches as well. Any momentary switch can be used to test if you get power and they still don't work. Check your fuses first, check for ground after the switch second and let us know the results.

Make sure reservoir starts at full level. Looking at my service manual, you must turn the rear bleeder screw at least one full turn open and with the ignition in 'run' position FIRMLY depress the brake pedal after the pump stops running, if the pump doesn't run there will be no pressure to the rear brakes. Just cracking the bleeder screws open won't work. Make sure the reservoir never drops below the minimum level, it will empty fast. To know when the air is out you need to have a hose attached to the bleeder screw and the other end in a jar of fresh fluid to see when no more bubbles come out. Do one side at a time but the manual doesn't give a preference of which side first. There is a proportioning valve on the car with an arrow on it, make sure the arrow points to the rear brakes. Not sure where that valve is located. I remember having a TC savvy mechanic replace fluid on the 91 I used to have and he had a 'doh' moment while bleeding the rears and getting no fluid out. After having me get in the car and work the key and pedal it took a while to get the fluid flowing so keep trying. This Chrysler dealer mechanic had worked on my TC from the time the first owner had got it and was very familiar with the car so don't feel bad about having missed a step or two.

probably a light staying on in trunk, spare tire compartment, under hood, etc. Try going out after dark and see if there is light shining through anywhere. If not then the easy way is to pull one fuse at a time and see when the battery drain stops. The squiggly under hood light wire is a common culprit for damaged areas that may be grounding out and draining the battery without a light being on, seat wiring under the carpet is another one of those.