ghostymosty

Wow this brings back memories. I can recall cars like these at a Santa's Village type place somewhere in California. I was too young to pay attention to the city but I know it was at high altitude. My grandparents took me there and I spent all day driving one of the cars. There was no center track holding the car in place, just the two outer rails to keep it from going off the ride and I was the only one that wasn't bouncing off the rails from left to right.

I've seen one like it at a local cruise night, in blue, so I'm pretty sure there must be a kit you can buy to make your own. I liked the one I saw in person here but not enough to look up a kit.

If I remember all the threads on this, the issue is simply clearance from the firewall and clearance from the hood. Some people have notched a clearance in the firewall to make other accumulators fit if I remember correctly. The other thing to be careful about is the pressure of the accumulator, some are higher or lower than the TC which could make a problem.

Engines go in to avoid letting the car sit in body shop purgatory! Shouldn't be a problem if you are doing your own bodywork. The other adage is that body guys have great running cars that look bad and mechanics have great looking cars that constantly need repairs. When you do one for a living most people let it slide and pay to have the other stuff done.

at least tell us what craigslist you used. This link is only for the poster to use to manage his for sale ad.

Yes the blue manual is for the 89 models. This circuit also includes the speed control and the spare tire bin light. The service manual does have the wiring diagrams but looking at mine, it is one page off for the references to look at each part of the circuit. I would check the spare tire bin light first.

You may need to change search tactics. Try finding an a/c compressor that still has the lines attached, still in a TC. Some yards will take the a/c compressor out by cutting the hoses and the metal line could still be attached (check for bends due to handling and storage), just let them know it can only be from a Chrysler TC convertible. Try car-part.com to search for yards that have TC's since a lot of them won't list the A/C stuff separate but will list major body parts.

Yes, the State of California requires a dealer's license to bid at this type of auction. There is a work around, each auction will usually have some dealers who are willing to do the bidding for you at a fee usually around $500. I work at a Manheim auction in CA and can't even think about buying a car from that auction, the police even make their presence known as they look around for "dealer's" who don't have an auction number on them in plain site.

location, price, color combo, condition of paint and leather can make or break a sale on a TC. Mileage doesn't enter into it since most of the odometers have stopped at some point and the cars were driven without repairing that problem.

OBD2 started in 1996 as far as I recall, therefore you do not have this plug on your TC. There is a diagnostic connector near the right strut tower in the engine compartment. OBD2 test equipment will not work in any TC.

1990 and 1991 with auto trans would be the 3.0L V6 version. The turbo auto trans would only be in 1989, the 16 valve only came with 5 speed manual trans. This one is going to be the V6 version.

I read this thread as I sit at home after driving my (bought used) Nissan Leaf to work for a whole week. As for battery life, the Leaf is a 2013 and is still using its original battery packs with 10 out of 12 bars of battery life remaining, 52000 miles. 2013 is the year the Leaf used a newer type battery made in Tennessee that is light years ahead of the 2011 and 2012 versions, an even better version came out in 2015 and again in 2018. Each new battery version lasts longer and gets more range than the one before. Right now I can go 72 miles on a charge but only count on 60 to be conservative, lasts me a whole week of getting to work and back with a 4 hour charge at work (240V) that costs me nothing and weekend driving is from charging maybe 3 hours to get store trip miles added to the batteries using 120V at home. I can add charging for a few more hours at home if I need to go somewhere special. When I didn't charge for free at work because of daytime rain, I charged at home a few hours when I could and my electric bill went up by a whopping $10 in the month to get 200 miles of driving range. Needless to say, I thumb my nose at gas prices (over $4 a gallon right now) quite often. The only drawback for me is that I can't drive long distance to look at old cars I might want to buy for a fun car when I don't want to drive my transportation appliance or when I want to drive long distance for something special. Yes, the Leaf is an appliance, I still like and would like to have an older gasoline powered automobile for a fun car but really wouldn't want to drive one everyday to work or the store just because of maintenance time and cost. I have lived the future and I really like it, a lot. Would I have even considered the Leaf if I drove 60miles a day commuting to work, not a chance! The Chevy Volt would have been my choice.

Curly wire for hood lamp is a common culprit, as is the light inside the spare tire compartment behind the seats. Wiring under the carpet for the seats, console light, and ashtray lighter is another place to look but requires removing seats.

To bleed the rears you need a helper in the car pushing/holding the brake pedal down (not pumping) with the key turned 'on', the brake pump should then push fluid to the rear brakes. Don't let the reservoir go dry, it empties quickly with the bleeders open. Bleeding the front should be the same as any other car. If the fronts aren't getting fluid I think you need to verify the brake pump is actually working, if not it is commonly an electrical issue at the relay box.

Wow, I just wish the bank account was bigger right now! I'm sure I would need to spend at least double the asking price to get it to just a daily driver condition but then I would have something to take to weekend cruises again. Being in Riverside, CA means it is not that far away from me but I don't think my Nissan Leaf would be too great for towing it!

Flipping for profit is NOT something to be seriously considered with a TC, at least for quite a few more years. Asking prices are going up but selling prices that I have seen are pretty much stagnant and selling a TC can take a long time. That particular TC looks nice for the price but make sure the brakes are functioning well, they are repairable but costly.

I kept wondering why you didn't do a freeze frame mugshot for the camera but then at the end, I saw it. But what were you holding up?

It sold at an undervalued price, but buyers were limited by being offered on copart.

At RockAuto look under the Dodge, 1989, Daytona, 2.2L, Electrical switch and relay, Radiator fan relay This listing shows both the possible radiator fan relays. Looking under the 1990 Daytona or TC 3.0L only shows one of these.

Or the pump has to compensate for the bad accumulator by running way too often, you will hear the pump run or feel pulsing in the brake pedal in some cases.

Some of the manuals are actually missing pages, I don't have my red manual anymore so can't be so helpful as to give you a page number. Also, some 90-91 cars came with the rectangular silver relay and some with the nearly square black relay, just depends on the wire harness supplier at the time.

Maybe the rear window defrost wiring would work for you.

April fools joke, Chrysler TC in yellow and the Scion tC in the pic.........Just remove the glass in the Scion roof!

Do you have an air bubble in the engine coolant passages? The temp sensor works on liquid temperature but I don't think it will register any temp from air around it.

You need to run a 12volt source to a switch in the car (add on) and then to the fan. Just turn the fan on with the switch when you run the car and you can check whether any of your engine work is the culprit. That is the 'old school' fix for electric fan issues when the fan is still good. People with bad memories for hitting the switch would run the 12volt from an 'ignition on' source but I wouldn't recommend that unless the source only works a relay that lets the 12 volts in from somewhere else (sounds like the factory setup) so you don't force too much current through the computer.