ghostymosty

The factory parts book is no help, it just lists the long Chrysler part number. The Mitchell manual lists the turn signal bulb as 1156 and the parking lamp bulb as 67. Wait for someone with either the service manual or the owners manual to chime in to verify.

I just rechecked my books and only the numbers Hemi gave for the 89 are shown. The factory parts book has a print date of August 1990 and the Mitchell crash book is July of 2003. The factory parts book numerical index does not show Hemi's numbers for the 90-91 so if someone has a factory parts book dated later than mine could they look at it and see if the TC part (Q body) electrical section has different numbers than mine? The Mitchell manuals are known for having errors and omissions so there isn't any need to check one of those, I just use it to double check for possible superceded numbers in the newer book.

I got curious and referenced my 1991 factory parts manual as well as the 2003 issue of Mitchell that includes the TC. Both sources only list one set of numbers for the front lights/brackets/covers for all 3 years depending on left or right side. I also checked the two left (driver's side) brackets that I have and there was no difference in the late 89 and the very early 89 production brackets. The brackets can be put on upside down on the opposite side but the mounting holes would be in the wrong spot, cobbling something could possibly make that work but the cross piece would then be on the top of the headlight.

ZC2FP1104KB200309 is on ebay right now. Was a Cabernet/Ginger automatic car but looks to be painted a dirty white or extremely pale yellow but VERY poorly done with all trim painted as well. I don't hold much hope for the seller getting over salvage yard price (150 to 250) on this one so it may end up off the road for good. I checked and it has a couple of recent failed smog checks and 200 owed to the state of CA.

Just try to remember that these are NOT a K-based car. These are based on the Daytona platform and if you need to know the difference then just read the auto magazine articles of the time (1984 models) commenting on how much the Daytona chassis was improved over the K cars. Some people have gotten into the habit of referring to any Chrysler Corp front wheel drive car as a K-car. Didn't help that the LeBaron was made as a K-car as a 4door in '87 while the 2 door and convertible moved to the Daytona platform that year and then the 5door liftback LeBaron GTS was on the Daytona platform as well. Now that I have confused even myself, try to remember that the Chrysler Laser was a rebadged Daytona and was replaced with the '87 2dr LeBaron. Kind of like the Barracuda was a version of the A-body Valiant/Dart line before being made as an E-body Plymouth version of the Challenger in 1970-74 with a very different suspension setup than the previous years.

Never made it to a TC Nats, too busy working or not working with no money! What 3 mechanisms, and would it just knock out the Antilock feature or the entire braking ability? I never had that problem even the couple of times I hit a pothole with the 91 triple black, didn't even knock the alignment out.

"RIGHT!. Lets be sure to be 'politically correct'!" Sorry for the ruffling, but: Why would he want to 'gather parts' to do that type of change to a working system when he could just as easily 'gather parts' for the system that is on the car now? The component that could lead to system failure in other components is the accumulator and that should be changed on a time/miles scheduled basis as normal maintenance as well as brake fluid flush every 2 years. Other parts can be acquired for a 'just in case' repair and kept on a shelf so he has them. The 'downgrade' to his braking system in this case just doesn't seem necessary to me. If he had a non-functioning braking system and couldn't locate the Teves parts then it would be a different story. I consider the Teves system to be superior if properly maintained but it sounds like you see it as inferior.

I like to stick to the 60's but have ventured into the 70's and 80's cars. I really liked my 79 Cordoba with T-tops, 2 different 71 Plymouth Sebrings, an 89 Chrysler TC Maserati to replace my really nice 91 TC that I sold to get a work van. I feel like the collectible ones from this era are those of a type that will never be produced again, the huge 2 door hardtops and convertible luxury and near luxury cars, the rear wheel drive midsize personal luxury coupes with long hoods to peer over as huge chunks of road disappear behind the car as it floats along. 73 and 74 Charger SE models, 74 and 75 Imperial / 75-78 New Yorker, Town and Country station wagons, 71 to 76 Electra and Oldsmobile 98, Buick Estate wagons and Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser wagons, 73 Grand Prix and Cutlass Supreme with the skinny front bumpers, Eldorado and Riviera, 75 to 78 Grand Marquis and LTD Landau, 74 and 75 Cougar XR7. Obviously the exotic Italian and British sports cars. I am leaving out any of the German built cars just because they do nothing for me on a gut level. I drive cars through an auction a few days a month and recently got to take a 72 Mercedes SEL across the blocks but the inside just looked and felt so 'purpose made' that I didn't find anything to like about it, not good for collector value. The Porsche 356 coupe I drove was better but still not inspiring to me. The 1970 Ferrari 365 GT was absolutely awe inspiring even though I was sweltering inside because the driver window wouldn't go down. The 1975 Eldo convertible was nice except for the cracking plastic on the dash and sounding like the front end was falling out while driving over a couple of dips in the parking lot, still liked it. The 1972 Chevy C10 pickup was ... a truck.

Before you do that, ask your insurance agent if the car can be insured without the ABS system it was built with. The non ABS brake system will work fine for the car if done correctly but you could be sabotaging the value of the car and causing headaches later on for yourself. The TEVES abs system has been used on a lot of different European cars over the years and should be serviceable for decades to come but could be very expensive if you don't replace the accumulator on a regular basis.

5X100mm is the almost universal pattern for most smaller front wheel drive cars that have more than 4 lugs, and has been around since the 1980's. You will find a HUGE selection of wheels for that size but need to pay attention to offset: center of rim toward outside (keeps lug nuts in normal FWD position) or inside lip (used to be called 'reverse rim' and gives lots of unsprung weight) of rim. You also need to check for size of center opening to be sure the car's hub will allow the wheel to seat properly. If you go into a wheel store asking for the SAE equivalent of the 5X100 they won't know what you are asking for unless it is for a big or very old american car or truck.

Here you go, this checks the smog test history of any car that underwent the CA smog test since it went computerized. VIN gives the most results since plate number can be changed. The site used to give you both VIN and plate results just entering one or the other but somebody complained (probably a flipper that didn't want craigslist viewers to check the changed plate number from photos and get the older plates 'failed' or 'tampered' results that would put a buyer off. http://www.bar.ca.gov/pubwebquery/vehicle/pubtstqry.aspx

Was gonna ask for an update then remembered I could check the state site myself. Woo Hoo! His car passed the smog check on 1/21!!! Guess he's having too much fun driving to post about it! edit: now I'll probably get warning points for stealing his thunder!

I have no plans to go look at this one so someone else could get those parts if they went, maybe TwinCam? Just so you know, those ABS tone rings can be removed from the axle and put on another axle if I remember correctly. The ABS sensors and wire leads are what need to be saved.

Visited the pick a part website for Ontario, California tonight and they are showing a yellow 89 TC they just got in. The only photo shows a broken passenger cornering lens and probably a missing rear bumper. http://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/locations/LKQ_Pick-A-Part_-_Ontario-280/recents/ Yeah I know about the fuzzy speaker covers but I didn't know about the early cars having the carpet covering the long and short fill-in pieces on the dash between the defroster section and the A/C vent section.

Bill, the headlight knob was missing and someone had broken the plastic part under the instrument hood because they didn't know about the two screws at the top edges. EmmettTC, the passenger side amber lens has cracks in it but no missing pieces so you probably won't want it. I grabbed it just because of how rare they are without missing chunks, the plastic covers for the front lights would keep the moisture out of it. I also nabbed the bracket behind it. I now have a set of headlamps with brackets, turn signals with brackets, and a driver side cornering light so that I can rescue a cheap TC in need of front lights after polishing them and putting the plastic covers on all of them. If I ever make the decision to not think about having another TC (or find better ones) then I would sell the parts I have. I would also trade them for a good set of 90's Chevy sport truck chrome wheels (like on the 454SS trucks) for my 93 Caprice wagon. The wheels are why I went to the wrecking yard but someone had beat me to them, I saw them getting the tires removed for the quicker buyer.

I saw this Royal Cabernet over Ginger leather sitting in the local pickapart today, vin 200377. This one has the early build hood with the lift supports on the outside edges instead of more centered like the later TC's. One thing I noticed was that the dash inserts (tiny on driver side and the long one on the passenger side) were covered in the same fuzzy carpet as the speaker covers, I have never seen that on any other TC as they were all leather. Did the really early cars have another difference from the later cars? When I saw this TC the hardtop was off and laying against the driver side taillight and reflector, the rear upholstery was incorrectly removed (ahem, being polite) in an attempt by someone to open the soft top cover on the passenger side. Turned out that the pull cable for that side was pulled loose in the tire compartment and wouldn't work. Wheels were gone and the soft top was gone so I am assuming this was the car on craigslist for $600.00 locally. Leather on the dash, seats, and doors is shot from heat exposure. I did manage to get the soft top cover open by removing the top seat belt cover and then removed the latches so the next person can open it just by lifting up. The passenger side tail light was still good but I didn't bring a battery for the trunk button to work and the car had no keys to open the trunk so the light is still there. I did take the top pull down assembly, plastic strips on the tire compartment, a couple of wheel trims and the usable but not really good driver headlight, both usable amber front turn signals, 3rd brake light, and the loose usable glass lens for the passenger headlight. I just couldn't leave these usable parts there to get crushed in a couple of weeks so they are now part of my stash in case I get another TC. The grille was gone but the hood looked good, both door mirrors were there, and the side glass was there. The trunk lid is waiting for someone to drill out the lock or cut their way through the soft top compartment but the reflector was loose and cracked around the lock area. Driver side tail light is usable but not as good as the passenger side.

One more I found today in a local salvage yard. 200377 turbo and automatic trans, Royal Cabernet with ginger interior.

Fury 1 was basically used as a cop car or taxi and few private citizens bought them. Fury 2 was the regular Plymouth full size car line and bought by those who wanted basic transportation especially by those favoring the 3 on the tree manual transmission with no a/c, power steering or brakes and a plain bench seat. Fury 3 was the nice trim level and most I've seen have had a center armrest front bench seat, automatic trans, V8, power steering and brakes, and few other options that weren't part of a basic group (yes, some were loaded). The Sport Fury was higher trim level and usually had lots of options but occasionally rather basic. The VIP was the luxury trim version but some were rather low on power options just having the really nice interiors and appearance items.

Sorry, I just don't know what I so or ISO stands for. I have seen it a very few times and seems to be a 'wanted' ad but my curiosity has the better of me right now so I am asking.

I don't have my wiring diagrams anymore but was wondering if it is possible to bypass the dimmer switch in the column to eliminate it as a possibility. I am assuming by your description that you replaced the headlamp switch because the dimmer for the dash lights was in bad shape, that should not be related to low and high beam headlights selection. The tilt function of the column may also be pinching a wire that goes from the dimmer switch on the column.

Number one thing is to always have the smog check done with a very warmed up engine/cat converter. The converter doesn't do its job well until warmed up. Your cat converter has probably been ruined by the oil smoking issue, if the car was getting too much gas then I believe the NOX reading would be a lot lower than it is. NOX and HC numbers are generally inverse to each other, when one goes up the other goes down and when the other goes up the first goes down. Burning oil makes a LOT of nasty leftover HydroCarbons for a cat converter to get rid of so a new converter could be ruined by the next smog check if the smoking isn't stopped.

Third brake light is removed from under the tonneau cover weatherstripping, two screws hold it on. A short piece of jumper wire from the rivet that holds the wire to the rail (that holds all the bulbs in the assembly) run to one of the bulb sockets and the bulb then put back into place should light the bulbs when the pedal is pushed. Then you know the rivet has come loose like 90% of them.

It should be shorter than the LeBaron.

I'm guessing the engines stalled out within seconds, likely never reaching max rpm. High part throttle is sufficient for this and I have known quite a few people to do that with auto trans fluid into a carb.

No, the power button is wrong. The TC didn't have a turn knob, just a push button.