Degerb

Easy Peasy... remove the seat back panel. 4 or 6 screws don't remember for sure. Raise the headrest up a skosh then using a 1/2"wide or so steel packing strap lay it on the flat of the headrest column pushing the strap upwards. You should feel the strap entering the latch assy.socket , keep pushing upwards you should feel the latch lock disengage. Then pull the headrest out of its socket. Going back in you will not need the strap. Sounds more difficult than it actually is! good luck!

Your're right Hemi, you've eased my mind about the equalizer. There is very little movement of the parking brake lever before the brake begins to apply to the r/rear wheel. I have a new p/brake cable which I intend to install next, I was just concerned about a possible problem also with the equalizer before I started, as I've never seen one quite that movable after years of road grime etc. This is also my first experience with this particular type of p/brake adjustment, the main reason behind my uninformed question. I'm sure I'll have more questions when I start to replace the p/brake cable tomorrow!

Hey guys... I have a problem adjusting the P. brake on my 1990, Nov 89 build, 12V, manual TC. The P/brake has been unusable since I bought the car 3 years ago due to caliper problems. I finally replaced the calipers, bled the brakes and adjusted them. They now work fine, except for the P/brake. After adjusting them per Hemi's instructions, the left rear locks up and the R rear keeps rotating..... tried readjusting the pucks, then readjusting the P/brake equalizer bolt... Nada! I finally found that the equalizer fitting shown in View V, page 5-49 in the Red Manual, was loose and can easily slide up and down the R /rear brake cable. I know this is probably a stupid question ... but where is the correct equalizer position on the r/rear cable supposed to be? Trial and error? Is this fitting supposed to be staked in the nominal position on the cable prior to adjusting the P/brake? ,

Per Rock Auto: High performance oil filter Wix #51348XP; Fram Ultra #XG3614

HAHa...... you made my day Hemi! I only feel 90 when I roll around on that concrete, my knees,elbows and hip bones keep reminding me! Besides that I just love the sound of that turbo when I climb thru the gears! Brings back the kid in me! Enjoy your fall wx in sunny Fort Mohave!

Well, I don't know bout that youngster.... LOL... I'M 84 feeling 90 after my brake n shock job on a concrete floor!

Thanks Hemi.... I have her up on jack stands now, just finishing replacing the rear calipers and shocks. Before I de-jack I wanted to see what problems I might run into replacing the pump and sender. In the light of your input, it might be just one of those things that I better leave for the pros!

Hi guys, I have a 1990 16V manual. As far as I can tell my car still has the original fuel pump and sender installed. I would like to replace both before they fail. A few years back I believe Hemi replaced his without removing the fuel tank completely, describing the process in our newsletter. My question is in order to do this is it necessary to unbolt the track bar/Diagonal brace also or will the pump and sender slide out between the bar and axle?

There also is the possibility if the speedometer gears have been changed. The speedometer needle may have not been reinstalled correctly onto the speedometer assy. upon reassembly.

I believe Hemi had a broken spring problem he was able to repair himself a few years back. Perhaps he'll weigh in on this topic! I not sure a broken spring would keep your brake warning light on! Let us know what you find! Degerb

Hi Tjackmil I had the exact same problem on my '90 16V TC, you likely have 2 or 3 areas of concern.... 1) Your brake cable pawls on your rear disc calipers could be corroded not allowing the cables to re-tract 2) your brake cable going thru the floor under your EB foot pedal could be corroded, again not allowing cable movement 3) your EB is out of adjustment! Its unlikely your EB switch is bad as your Warning light is lit. It is possible your foot brake assy could be the culprit In any case you should extinguish your warning light because of the bulb overheating the receptacle. Under the car on the drivers side locate the PB cable and physcally pull the cable rearward with vice grips until your light goes out. My problem was the brake caliper pawls were frozen. being unable to sufficiently free them I had to replace both rear calipers! Good luck degerb

Jim... This site is in I think the UK, it does indeed have pics of the accessories available in a new TC. http://www.portholeauthority.com

Hi Mark... there is an alternative available, if you can't find someone to work on your mechanism. Try contacting tcparts.com., they will rebuild your unit. Albeit on the expensive side but a certified mechanic doesn't come cheap either. If your not really comfortable with trying to fix it yourself this could be another route for you. Good Luck

Hello Kriley: If these are all of your problems, consider yourself very lucky. These cars are after all over 25 years old and things do go wrong due to age and neglect, plastic and hoses do get brittle over time. FYI, to my knowledge there were no more cars built after after model year of 1990, your car is probably a 1990, sold in 1991. (1 Buy yourself a repair manual absolutely necessary, there is also a lot of good info in the archives if your a new owner! on this site and also on Ebay (2 The tonneau unit can be repaired by people here on this site..... just do a simple search! (3 I'm not sure what you mean by key fob, if you mean the original Chrystal Ignition key you may find one for sale once in a while again on this site an original blank can be very pricey (4 I'm not sure what you mean by drivers door actuator problem .... outer button or the inner plastic one behind the arm rest. (5 Trunk Key.... that's easy, take the car to a good reliable locksmith and for $25 he'll make you one. FYI the trunk key is probably 50% longer than the ignition key blanks are still available! A word of advice here.... as the trunk lid is very heavy too many people attempt to lift the trunk lid with the key... Don't do it!! Enjoy your new/old ride, good kuck

Hey Rusty... after I had my tranny replaced, that fall I stored the car in an unheated garage here in N. Idaho. When I took it out the next spring I started to experience symptoms similar to yours. After an extended trip with the car, the tranny shifting became silky smooth again. This past winter I had my car in a heated garage 50 degrees or so.... This spring when I took the car for its first drive in almost 10 months the shfting was still nice and smooth. I really think a lot of problems are caused by our cars not being driven enough or long enough and perhaps surface rust is a problem on the shifting rails in some winter storage areas. I would suggest that your take your car on a fairly long trip, getting your tranny good and warm with a lot of shifting (perhaps you already have) and see if the tranny will free up by itself. I'm just speaking from my experiences, certainly not from any particular mechanical knowledge. A lot of the guys here at the site gave me a lot of insight and their thoughts on my particular problem, which helped greatly. I hope your problem will clear itself, these cars are really fun to drive when everything is working according to Hoyle! Good Luck