Bhigdog

What exactly are you asking? If you are asking if you can just plug the vacuum line from the pump to the wiper moter the answer is yes, just do it. You won't hurt a thing......Bob

If you get under your car and look directly behind the outer rocker panels you will see a vertical piece of sheet metal about 4" wide that is spot welded to brackets that are in turn welded to the floor and are also body mounts. That is the "inner" rocker. It is an important structural member that in conjunction with the the outer rocker forms a "D" shaped tube that stiffens the lower structure of the car. It runs from the front to rear wheel openings. In two door cars the bottom of the rear 1/4 is welded to it. Generally, if the outer rocker is rotten so is the inner. It's not terribly difficult to replace, just time consuming. The good news is that it is not really seen so you don't have to worry about apperance, within reason. Once you get the outer rocker cut off you will see and have acess to the inner. It is spot welded to the body brackets, the floor, and at the front a cowl brace. I generally cut the spot welds to the brackets and front brace and then just cut the whole length along the top, and remove. I fit the new piece tight along the top and skip weld. For the brackets you can plug weld from the front or just edge weld from the back (or both). I use metal about 6" wide so I dont have to worry about fitting both top and bottom. That leaves the bottom over wide and after the outers are welded on the last thing I do is just trim the bottom off. Rather than pay top dollar for repro inners I just use 1/16 thick steel I buy from the local sheet metal shop. ($20 pair). That's almost twice the original thickness but it's much stronger and does a better job. Sometimes the inner is mostly OK with just a small section rotted out. If that's the case it's OK to patch over the rotted area but remember it's not just cosmetic but also structural. If I patch I use a piece long enough to go between two brackets and also weld to the brackets. Have fun.......Bob

In order of preferance......1. Your local NAPA or other auto parts store. You would be very surprised at what is still available and at probably lower prices. 2. Kanter auto 800-526-1096 3. CARS inc. 908-369-3666 they have the stuff you need, but are the worst personalities to deal with.......Bob.

I'm assuming you are using a hydraulic floor jack and not some type of bumper jack. I just put the jack under the rear end "pumpkin" and raise the rear until I can get the jack stands under the rear axles out near the tires (my stands have a flat top with concave center)or under the frame. For the front I place the jack under the front X-member and jack the whole front up at once. Depending on what I am doing I place the stands either under the frame or A arms. I also put a piece of 2X4 wood between jack and car so as not to mar the car or dent the bottom of the X-member. I would not reccomend using stands on anything other than a VERY firm and level surface. I think grass or dirt could be dangerous under some conditions. Also after the car is on the stands I give it a very vigorous test shake. I'd rather it fall then than later but have never had it even wiggle....Bob.

That sounds like a good idea. I tried some experiments today. Mig gas is heavier than air and displaces it in the can (confirmed with a lit match, in an EMPTY CLEAN can). So I purged a half MT can of paint of it's air, replacing it with MIG gas. I'll give it about a month and see what it looks like....Bob.

You've gotten my blood boiling just reading these stories. I've got a few of my own but not as bad as these........Bob.

You know how a half empty can of paint skins over or other wise dries up? I would guess it's because of oxidation with the "air" space left in the can. It occured to me that if I replace the air with MIG welding gas (argon/CO2 mix) that wouldn't happen. Has anyone tried this. If so how did it work?........Bob.

1954 Studebaker Starlite Coupe. Automatic. Failed the first time around because I applied the brakes with my left foot. I was devastated...Bob

Flea marketing one day. Showing the 57 Buick on Sat. Looking for a preservation and then on to the Grand Nats next year....Bob

Flea market runs Wed through Sat. About 9000+ venders. Use the internet to find rooms, Harrisburg is close. Show is right next to Hershey Park which is located in..................HERSHEY, PA. Admission is free, parking is cheap. Whether you find what you are looking for or not is debateable, unless you are looking for the greatest automotive spectacle on Earth. In which case you have found it.......Bob.

I'm lucky enough to live close to both Carlisle and Hershey. I don't bother with Carlisle anymore, it seems more street roddy and aftermarket. I never miss Hershey though, both at least one day for the fleas and a car in the show on Saturday. Hershey cannot be described only experianced........Bob.

Acetone is a VERY active solvent. Use at your own risk.......Bob.

Hagerty for me. no claims but the price is right and they don't hassel you with conditions. All they require is photos, no appraisal. They also will insure a car during the restortion process, increasing the coverage as the progress warrants. Real easy to deal with on the phone too.....Bob

Not to be contrary, but my 55 has different keys for the ignition, trunk/doors. My 57 however uses one key for all locks........Bob.

Lots of different opinions on this one. My understanding is it is not the valves that are eroded but the valve seats. Some say you only have to worry if you run the engine hard (pretty subjective parameter). I talked to my engine machine shop owner and he says there seems to be no rhyme or reason to the erosion problem. He says they see heads with one or two seats eroded away and the others with no erosion. The easy fix since your head is being redone anyway is to have hardened seats installed. It is not that expensive.......Bob.

In a 55 S-88 2 door hardtop where were the rear seat power window switchs located? Were they in the side panel or the top of the arm rest. Thanx.......Bob.

Possibly a short to ground in wire from points to coil (most likely inside dist.) Coil then would never see points opening and therefore not fire. Disconnect points to coil wire at coil, open points (slip a piece of paper between them) and check for continuity between wire and engine block. There should be none. If there is, check for frayed insulation etc etc etc.....Bob.

I'm sure the judges will answer, but in my experiance a judge won't even touch your car without asking first. Except for one show where I came back to my car to find the judge sitting in it trying to put the top down to see if it worked. I all but grabbed him by the neck and pulled him out of the car. BTW, it was a non AACA show........Bob.

Not recently, but the 57 Buick tail pipe they sent me needed EXTENSIVE rework....Bob.

Restoration Specialties Inc. Windber, Pa. 814-467-9842 $1.50 per ft.....Bob

On my current project I've been using X-Rusto satin black and am pleased with the results. Plus it's cheap. It does have to be thinned about 20% to be sprayable though. Sherwin Williams sells a "chassis Black" that also appears "correct".....Bob.

What metal is it made of. Brass or steel would not be too much of a problem. Pot metal would be tricky........Bob.

BTW. A die grinder with a cutoff wheel is as reliable an ignition source as a torch. ......Bob

Has anyone had had any experiance with Gas Tank Renu? They refurbish gas tanks.......Bob.

Thanks, it's worth a try. i only need one but would buy 2.......Bob