Bhigdog

You can pay $60 apiece for the flat glass (plus shipping) from Fusick or Olds Supply. Or you can remove the glass from the frames and take them to your local auto glass shop and have them cut for you. I just had all 6 pieces done for my 55 in tinted safety plate. Total cost $120. The shop will also remove and replace the glass in your frames if you want, but at added cost of course. As for performance, higher compression, hotter cam, better breathing will all add horse power at the expense of smoothness and drivability. And of course getting your foot into it with that additional HP will shorten the life of your drivetrain.......Bob.

I guess I'm mentally challenged but there is NO WAY I would change that if it was my Buick. I LOVE it. HAW HAW HAW........Bob.

In my experiance either copper or carbon fibre cored wires will work just fine to fire your plugs. Radio noise may be another matter. If you are rewiring a Buick V8 (nailhead) you must be carefull to place the wires in the proper spots in the wire looms and covers otherwise you may get cross/misfires........Bob.

I think 56 was a [@!#!$] year with rebuild kits hard to find. Try Apple Hydraulics, and have it relined with brass while you are at it. Last one I had done was about $75 but it's been awhile.......Bob

Do you have a link to the Ebay stencil?........Bob

You can get a rubber wire set from Cars inc. about $35. They work OK for me.........Bob.

Tap the screw head smartly a few times with a drift or punch. apply penetrant tap smartly again a few times. A bit more pentrant then try the screw driver with a wrench trick. This often works....Bob

Try Restoration Specialties. They have a few different sizes. www.restorationspecialties.com. they have an on line catalog......Bob.

The 55 is basically the same body and yes it's trim is held on by clips with studs and nuts. The rear seat has to come out, they just lift out, then the side panel, then a panel on the inner fender. It's not as hard as it sounds. You can be in the fender in under 20 minutes easy but I can't remember if the rear window regulator is in the way or not. I think not but if it is then it gets to be a hassle.

There's lots of things that are "factory correct" but you wouldn't want to do. Such as just a thin coat of primer on inner sheet metal so that the body rusts out in 3 years. Bolts cross threaded and driven in anyway with an air wrench. Over spray in all the wrong places. Trim misaligned (let the dealer fix it). Cheap steel exhaust systems that rot out in 3 years. Sealer sprayed all over the firewall. Cheap vinyl seats that crack and rip. Ahhhh the list goes on and on. But I love the damn things anyway. Happy new year to all.......Bob.

Approximate value is about $25 each

Not too far East is Pennsylvania. An antique (I think 25 years old ) plate is about a $75 one time fee, no inspection required. Classic plate is same one time fee but a yearly inspection ($20 where I live).

Yeah some shapes don't lend themselves to getting fancy. I usually lay the strip on a flat surface and use a brand new single edge razor blade to make the cut. Scissors usually won't make a square flat cut. BTW if you are gluing the strip over it's whole lenghth to the body, or whatever, be sure to wash it with soap and water first to remove any die release agent........Bob.

yes, the diagonal cut increases the surface area and also changes the angle of the "shear" forces increasing the joints resistance to pulling apart. I like the idea of the vee joint. More trouble to do but should also work good....Bob

On a 55 S-88 were the front seat cardboard kick panels (they are on the sides next to the occupants feet) covered with vinyl or were they simply painted cardboard? Anyone know? Thanks........Bob.

Also comes in black. It works best on foam type W/S. Place the joint at the least invasive position and use a diagonal cut to make the joint....Bob.

Very nice job, I thought it was real. That's the car I learned to drive in. BTW, the AACA museum has a very nice example........Bob

The book value on that car in #1 condition is $60,000+. However to get your car in that condition would cost much much more than that. I would pay $8000 for the car as a restoration project. BUT, I think you are looking for a car to use once in a while for a nice drive rather than a maintenance nightmare or a money pit. I would look for a nice "driver". A nice to fair shape driver of that period can be had for about $8000. It won't be a high end convertable but in my opinon a nice two or four door model would be much less work and much more enjoyment for you. Just my two cents........Bob.

Tommy, could you elaborate on your "mixed results" comment pertaining to the neoprene rear seal repacement for the rope seal? Thanks....Bob.

Thanks Steve. I'm in the middle of restoring a 55 S-88. It'll be as "correct" as possible but I am changing the color. I probably won't bother with the Olds club and just stick to AACA events......Bob

Some in the shop covered with overspray and sanding dust, some piled high in my office, mixed in with old Hemming's, falling over and getting lost behind the book case and desk, a lot in the store room, unmarked, and all mixed up as to make and year, my pictures are all still in the envelopes from the developers but they are getting all mixed up too. AAAAAAAARRRGGGHHHHHH..........Bob.

I'd like to find a 37 Buick project car. Anything out there? bhigdog1@ptd.net .........Bob

Wow Ron, a suggestion that the data plate be altered to make the car "correct" strikes me as bizzare logic. Does anyone know how the Olds group judges re: color/data plate?.......Bob

I got a letter about a week ago inviting me to Phila. for an award for my 57 Buick but it didn't say why......Bob.

I'm looking for a pair of robe ropes and bullet shaped end trim for a 55 Olds but they are the same for other 50's GM cars. Condition of the ropes is unimportant. bhigdog1@ptd.net