Bhigdog

since i will be facing the same project (warm shop but no lift ) please post all the pros and cons............Bob.

Cylinder layout. Drivers side, counting front to rear is 2 4 6 8. Passenger side front to rear is 1 3 5 7........Bob.

You say the linings appear new. If they are like new and not glazed and fully contacting the drum they will feel exactly as you described. I had the same problem with a 57. I even sent the brake booster back to the rebuilder as defective. It turned out the new linings were too hard and not seating. New softer linings cured the problem after a few miles of break in. To test booster operation.....With engine off, pump brakes several times to deplete vacuum tank. Hold brake pedal down while you start engine. If booster is functioning properly you will feel the pedal move down slightly as engine vacuum builds........Bob.

check your coolant for oil. My first thoughts ( after coolant leak ) would be "head Gasket".

You would have to remove the steering column outer jacket to get to it. Nasty job, but the odds are on your side that's not the problem, especially if someone "worked" under the horn ring. My money is on that as the problem area.........Bob.

Thanks guys. I have a bunch of 55 Buick wheels but the center hole is 1/4" larger than Olds. I didn't even check anything else. I was hoping I could get someone to open their Hollenders, but I'm not even sure they would be listed.......Bob.

Actually that was last week. By day 2 the black vultures found him by day 3 there was only a grease spot left. In nature nothing goes to waste.....Bob.

everything you mentioned can be gotten from "CARS" 908-369-3666. Their attitude sucks, they act like they are doing YOU a favor by selling to you, but they do have what you need. Personally they are my source of last resort....Bob.

I should say chances are it's not the relay. A quick check is to ground the "S" terminal of the relay ( green wire ). If the horns blow the problem is in the circuit from the relay to the wheel, and the relay is OK. BTW, the relay itself must have a good ground between the relay and inner fender, the same for the horns. If the relay and horns check good, check/clean the connector on the top side of the steering column under the dash. After that it's the horn ring and pray its not the slip ring contact in the column.....Bob.

Remove the relay. Bend the tabs and remove the cover. File the contact points ( file, do not use sand paper). Adjust to about a 1/32" gap. Bead blast the cover. Spray with semi gloss black. Clean the terminals and connecters. Reinstall. If it's still iffy it ain't the relay.....Bob.

there's a possum on the road by me. he's been playing possum for about 3 days now........Bob

Does anyone know what wheels will interchange with 55 olds wheels? I know Buick's will not. Maybe a Hollanders will list them. I appreciate the help.....Bob.

I need some stock 15" wheels for a 55 Olds S-88. Does anyone know what other make wheels will fit? I know Buick wheels won't work........Bob.

That's EXACTLY what I needed to know. Thank You.........Bob.

Coker tire can give you the info as to make/size/WW width etc.

Mine is a Holiday Coupe and came with fronts only. If 4 was an option I want to add the back 2. I already have all the parts but want to be "correct"....Bob.

Call Alan J Kriss 908-688-2092. His prices are more than fair and he is a perfectionest.........Bob.

The 55 S-88 I'm restoring has power window, but only in the front. the rears are manual crank type. Was power ONLY in the front the only option or could a new 55 S-88 be ordered with all 4 windows powered. thanks...........Bob.

I would say the shop you took them to does chrome plating but is definately NOT a restoration type rechrome shop. Pits in steel or pot metal are most definately a fact of life to the restoration rechromer. Of course the worse the parts are the more it will cost to make it better than new again. I've seen bumpers and pot metal that had holes rotted right through that looked beutiful when done. Shop around but be prepared to pay. It ain't cheap making a silk purse from a sows ear.........Bob.

The car has few things going against it. Mainly it's a 4 door and a special. A lot will depend on the rust situation. The rear bumper, especially the ends are hard to find and are probably the single most valuable part of the car, IF they are not rusted through. I don't know what the interior shot is of, but if it's of the Buick you have a seriously bastardized car. Price wise, It's not a car people are scouring the Earth for. Take the best offer or part it out......Bob.

I'm looking for a good 55 olds hood. bhigdog1@ptd.net

Heavy car, inefficient design, sloppy transmission, relativly low rear axle ratio. At least gas is cheap..........Bob

Someone close to NJ that I could highly reccomend is Librandi's plating, 717 944-9442, ask for Todd. He's located on Harrisburg, Middletown, Airport. My experiance has been he will give you a hard price and a hard delivery date and stick to both. He isn't the cheapest but he's far from the most expensive and his work is excellant.......Bob.

Re Cadmium plating. I had a very hard time finding someone to do cad plating. Jerry Martin DBA Charger Metal Works in Philadelphia (215 289 9227)finally got some done for me, but he sends it to a guy that does production plating and the guy runs the parts when he can. Turn around time/price wasn't too bad. 4 weeks and $80 for a power brake boost can, but that was no prep/polish work, just a quick ride through the tank.......Bob.

Thier bumpers are a P.O.S. They are OK if you are just looking for a driver quality bumper you are going to beat up anyway, other than that forget it. North Star plating did a good job for me (good enough for a Senior Grand National First) on complete front and rear 55 Buick bumpers for $1600. They were pretty rusty too with the normal dings and dents. They quote a hard price over the phone and stick to it. That price is 5 years old though.........Bob.