Bhigdog

Like OldTank said. Idler arm is easy part. If your Exhaust system is newish it's meerly a pain in the butt. If the flange nuts are rusted to the exhaust manifold studs and you twist the studs off.........well, you get the point. It's anywhere from a 2 hour job to a burn the damn thing where it sits deal. You pretty much must remove the whole exhaust system. When you put it back together use brass or stainless nuts and anti sieze....Bob.

remove idler arm from frame. Lower steering relay rod. Remove exhaust crossover or "Y" pipe. There are holes in the frame to acess forward 4 pan bolts. A real miserable job........Bob

BCA, No local chapter AACA

If they are indeed chromed you are indeed outaluck. Are you sure they aren't stainless? If stainless use 600 grit paper and a sisel buffing wheel with black then white compound...Bob

Try http://www.restorationspecialties.com

Book says cyl. head part #1392351 is for 1955 & 1956 either side and both 322 and 264. So the answer to your question is.........YES.

If it's a brass float about two minutes and a drop of solder will fix the leak.

Thanks Steve, I just found the online rule book. It is my understanding then, if the points leading Junior car happens to be a 400 pointer, the next cars in line must score at least 390 to be awarded a Junior also. Is that correct? Thank You, Bob.

I have a real dumb question. I've been a member for awhile now and have restored a car that's made it to Grand National Senior status, But I'm still kind of hazy on the scoring system. I showed my 57 buick at Hershey last Fall and was awarded First Junior. What exactly does that mean scoring wise? Was it the higest scoring car in class, or only in relation to other Junior cars, Or are Seniors in the mix, etc etc. Also I heard that the order in which Senior or GN cars are announced or listed reflects their point total, i.e. highest point cars listed/called first. True or false? Sorry for the ignorance guys......Bob.

I'm looking for a 54 victoria project car. Will consider all. EMail me directly please. bhigdog1@ptd.net.

No good deed shall go unpunished

Bill Hirsch engine enamels on bare steel work fine. The castings must be completly degreased. Oils and grease hide in all the little sand pits in the rough castings. The castings must be scrubbed clean or better yet boiled out. If not completly clean no paint will adhere correctly.

Never mind the car. Where can I buy what the appraiser was smoking?

I guess modesty dictates that I should not mention that my 55 Buick Century is honored to be part of the muscle car display. Oops.....Bob.

Anyone here interested in a 57 / 58 J-2 set up or should I just go to EBay? Unit is in good shape but will need rebuilding. Has linkage but lacks pneumatics...Bob

I stumbled on a Toronado (66 I think ) in a PA junk yard today. Looks complete except for the front bumper and grill. In fact looks way too good to be there. Anyone interested reply for name and # of yard.

Thank you much.........Bob

Does anyone know the correct color for a 57 olds J-2 engine? Thanks.......Bob

Nice 57 steering wheel on Ebay. #6517573268

Model? Pictures?

I did a 55 frame and underbody semi gloss black. No body color overspray. Car ended up with AACA Grand National Senior award, Buick Senior Gold. May not be 1000% correct but it works....Bob.

BINGO!

DUHHH, what are J bars?

test, sorry.

Thanks Charlie, I've only seen green also. There is a repro top on EBay that's described as gray, the pix looks pretty gray also. Does anyone know who's selling the repro's?