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super55

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  1. Thanks Bob! I greatly appreciate the info and details. I have been putting this job off foir a while and now have no excuse not to do it. I think the inners are pretty bad and those will need to do the full job. Thanks again.
  2. I have a 55 Super 4-door that I will replacing [cut and weld] the outer rocker panels on. Can someone explain what inner rocker panels are and what is involved in there replacement? In addition, any info from those that have done this work will be greatly appreciated.
  3. Need some clarity. If I put the car up on ramps, can the oil pan be removed without dropping the idler arm, etc? Or is this gonna be a full day job with lots of headaches?
  4. I was looking at the oil pan and it looks awfully tight to be able to drop it without raising the engine or something. Can the pan be dropped as-is? If not, how is it done?
  5. I have a 55 Roadmaster 4-door that I am resurrecting. Because of the extensive work it needs, I am trying to add some minor personal touches. Will the grill or taillights from a 56 roadmaster fit the 55? Any suggestions for minor body modifications that add a little something exra to the already beautiful car. For those that are wondering why not keep it 100% original - the car was in pretty bad condition and I do not have the $$$ to bring it back to original. At least I saved it from being crushed!
  6. I have finally located a donor for replacing the quarter panels on my ' 55 Roadmaster 4-door. My car has rust-threw entirely around the rear wheel well where the trim moulding was, including the lower door jamb. What is the best bet as far as replacing the panels? I am thinking to cut the replacement panel a few inches above where my rust-out is and include the door jamb area also. Is it more practical to also replace the inner wheel housing as well for a better/easier repair? Any and all suggestions/advice will be appreciated! I tried to make my question as clear as possible, but I don't know if I did.
  7. Thanks for the input and I hope to get more. I am tired of going to get a case of oil and always wondering which type to get. Even though there are a lot of varying opinions, they are all very helpful. At least now I won't be spending as much time picking out my oil.
  8. Just wondering what type motor oil everone uses, with confidence, in their 322 Nailhead?
  9. I got it to run a little. If I unscrew the mixture screws all the way until they just about fall out and then hold the accelerator to the floor it will start and putter a little until I let up on the accelerator, then it stalls. If I can get it to run, I will check the vacuum.
  10. I have adjusted the carb to specs. I didn't want to install new points or condensor since they were just replaced, but I will take a look and do so if necesary.
  11. I have had a 62 Skylark convertible for the past ten years. I sent the carb out for repair and rebuilding. For some reason the guy also painted it gold. When I installed it, I took it for a full tune-up. The car ran good for about 100 miles and then hardly ran. I checked the carb and it was leaking and the gold paint was flaking. I bought another correct carb and installed it. I checked the spark plugs and they were black. I installed new plugs and made sure the gaps were correct. Now the car won't start at all. Anyone have any ideas.
  12. Where are you located? Can you post a picture?
  13. Are you still looking for one? I have one you may be interested in.
  14. Still looking for a non-damaged hood! Wheatbelt has a hood covered in surface rust. They want $150 for the hood and almost $250 for shipping. It is way too far to pick-up. Does anyone know if the $150 is a fair price and/or if there is any cheaper way to have the hood shipped? I paid less then $400 to have a whole car shipped half-way across the country. Any help will be appreciated as always. Kevin
  15. Bob, Do you have a picture you can send me? Might be able to talk the family into a road trip when the weather gets nice! Kevin
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