KAD36

^———- Also check the spacing between the rows across width of radiator. Similar problem here. Had correct 3 rows but the rows were spaced 9/16 apart leading to running hot. Replaced with 3/8 spaced rows and so far so good. This was replacement for a replacement, stock core was long gone.

…and if you can shake it, all the lost French fries under the front seat will come out too

Bump. Any news?

+1 Rislone and lifter considering if it’s being run more…..

Was thinking the same thing. Looks like a corner was turned and have a really nice vehicle. Pride of ownership.

Help with “ the shifter will not shift” - having trouble visualizing it. Automatic? Can’t rotate shift lever about the column from P to R and back? Or can’t raise lever toward you to “unlock the detent” and then be able to shift it? Have done this twice and don’t recall any weird tricks. The column was pulled completely out of the car? It’s not jammed up under tension is it? Or tension on the parking pawl holding it jammed in park? Maybe try loosening the clamp under the dash to make sure nothing is binding, try rotating the shift column and linkage manually, make sure the detent lockout slot (pulling shift lever toward you) can be cleared, lever aligned with gear car is in. Stream of consciousness - let us know what you find

Yeah yeah…..that’s it—-^ See? No flex seal….🤣

Can you try flushing out the bottom tank clean to get any sediment out then make a fixture that seals up a water hose to the lower radiator hose inlet, or heater hose inlet, and try flushing it out the top? Think EmTee had some widget he engineered that did that…. Not to resurrect the dreaded clutch fan thread, but for a point of comparative reference am still running the dreaded 5 blade HD clutch fan we discussed, running AC using a 3 core HD radiator and runs fine at 200-210 on a 95 deg day with AC on. I followed JDs advise and used some rubber welting to seal up the perimeter gap between the shroud and radiator to minimize end around in the airflow.

Those service technician examinations are cool. I have a couple Oldsmobile ones from the 50s from courses my uncle took. So…what was your grade 🧐

Looks like I won’t be heading back to Binghamton until Sunday morning by the time I get done here so it will be a bit rushed for me - until I get home, switch horses, blow the dust off the car and head up there, so I’m going to pass. If you guys decide to do a replan or a sequel let’s post it here…. I did fire up the car this morning before I left maybe that’s partial credit…. nothing like a 550 rpm idle and the smell of no catalytic converter out the back….

Am needing to do some work on my moms house, who lives a few hours out of town. It’s not a big deal but at her age anything in the house is a big deal so that’s a priority. Playing it by ear. Been so busy this spring sadly don’t think the car has more than 150 miles on it this year yet…..

If we keep dancing around the (Political posts will not be tolerated…) eventually one of us is going to slip up and say something about how the (Political posts will not be tolerated…) and why the (Political posts will not be tolerated…) and then we will make a political post, which will not be tolerated. Just sayin….

Fortunately, there’s re-runs…..

I also rode on Muds coat tails and measured the fluid displacement of the domes after seeing the results of his tests. What a bunch of Motorhead nerds. 🤓

Turning the ARP bolt down was the way to go. Everything is still where it belongs inside the block 🤣 What did you find for pistons, how well did they balance out and how did they compare to stock? Egge appears not to be making them and Rebuilders Choice (through Kanter) was an option a few years ago…. Apologize if I missed it earlier, didn’t scroll back.

Did that filter start as a 57 thing? 55 just has a big old suction tube like a shop vac.

What was chosen for heat? Any tips on technique other than cleaning? Never heard of this before….

Good. Anything in that primary circuit path that drops even tenths of volts unnecessarily robs the coil. This is an interesting problem.

BRAVO! Saved this for future reference. Thanks for the write up!

Yeah plus you won’t blink every time the spark hits….as .enquiring minds found out 🤪

If you are interested in investigating the primary side of the ignition and it’s related components and are willing to make a bunch of hot/cold measurements I could dig up my notes, let me know. In Emtees note above if you measure with the engine running you might see the numbers jump around depending on what kind of meter you have as the points are connecting/disconnecting the coils primary to ground. If so you can try it with engine off, ignition on. If you get zero volts just bump the starter until the points close.

Thank you for the kind words - sure and post so we can all learn. My post was a culmination of what some very experienced forum folks helped me to piece together. 100% team effort. Interested to see what lancemb finds… hate these kinds of goofy problems.

What was the ballast measurement? “New” ones I’ve measured were high at 1.8-2 ohms. The car will work with that unless other parts of the primary circuit are worn or drift out of spec over temperature, then a weak to intermittent spark could develop due to a “tolerance stack” of worn or out of OEM spec “new” parts. Per the service manual the ballast should be 1.4 to 1.6 ohms, lower numbers drop less voltage across the ballast and can provide the coils primary side with higher voltage and therefore more secondary voltage to the plugs to fire reliably across the plugs air gap. New ballasts can be modified if desired to hit the low end of the service manual specification if you get the wire wound ones that are not fully encapsulated, just clip about 1/4-1/2 inch off (use an ohm meter and mark cut point). If you have or want to keep an original to the car unit, disassemble all the brass connecting swaged barrels and get rid of all the tarnish and crud out of each electrical “interface”. Each is an opportunity for voltage loss. Its ok to jumper across the ballast to see if it affects running, it won’t burn the points short term. Have you tried swapping out the coil with a known good coil - maybe I missed that. If a coils primary (or secondary) resistance drifts while hot or internally shorts under running vibration (which is difficult to measure) the car can quit, surge, idle rough/miss, backfire. FWIW I could not get 2 “new” oil filled coils to last (mounted on its side per stock) more than a few months and the hot run problem would begin to reoccur, but a “new” epoxy filled one has proven reliable. From my research at the time, assumptions on why that worked and the consistency of the newer oil filled coils reliability when mounted on their side is a whole different discussion that appeared laced with strong opinions blended with foggy facts. That plus a corrected ballast resistance value solved my cars hot run problems. (at the time there actually were 3 concurrent issues - bad electric fuel pump, ballast too high, coil performance deteriorating over time at hot). At least by swapping out the coil, it affected (but did not initially fully solve) the behavior indicating the debug approach was on the right track. All this assumes that the voltage regulator is working correctly at hot (both the charging and cutout relays) and the battery holds proper charge. If the battery voltage, or upstream side of the ballast is say 10-11 ish volts measured to ground at idle, in D, full load of lights and fans on its probably not a contributor. Maybe more than you wanted to know but thought to share what was discovered solving a random hot run problem with symptoms similar to your situation. The cars ignition problem was so sensitive it got down to idling hot in D reliably with hood open and slowly stumbling and eventually dying with hood closed and hard starting thereafter - zero fun and tough to cool down in real traffic on 90 deg day. Not saying it’s a smoking gun so apply as appropriate. Good luck and keep us posted.

Starter Solenoid switches big amps to the starter motor at the starter and the contacts will pit, limiting current to the motor. Notorious on marine engines. See Emtees trick - I can vouch it works no need to buy a new one unless the coils are shot. Starter Relay on fender switches lower amps to energize prior mentioned starter solenoid extending to complete the high amp circuit to motor. Try rapping on lid with a screwdriver handle. The cover can be removed and contacts cleaned if I have my relays right - someone correct me if not. Unless the coils are shot on that relay these contacts can be cleaned up and still be used. There’s a car quest part number that matches up if you’re in a jam. Would have to dig for it…..

Have mixed and matched from Steele, RTRW and Metro. On 2 dr HDTP large series the Steele better matched the original shape and construction at the door, windshield and the auxiliary at the cowl. I’ve been chicken picking through mine the past year gathering and test fitting until body prep and paint day cometh. Be aware across suppliers it’s been my observation the rubber composition can differ in appearance if that matters to you. Good luck!