Rawja

I think it was also available in the Roadmaster. There's one of these units on eBay right now, modded with an MP3 hookup which in my opinion is much more desirable as CDs are pointless nowadays. GM RADIO 5EQ CD PLAYER IPOD-MP3 86-87 BUICK GRAND NATIONAL--CHEVY MONTE CARLO SS | eBay

On my '88 Seville (same compressor as Reatta) I went with Delco which came with a 12 month warranty. At month 14 the compressor crapped out, according to my mechanic it was leaking through the compressor body itself(?). Having learned a lesson of sorts, went with the Four Seasons brand which came with a 24 month warrantee.

Just be aware the the 88-89 grey is significantly darker than the 90-91 grey.

Well here ya go: Then & Now | 100 Years of Chevrolet | Chevy Centennial - YouTube And one for my local market:

Might as well add varying battery health to the list of variables given that you generally can't hear the Teves pump running with the engine running. A weaker battery will necessarily result in longer run times.

I'm picking up stakes and moving out West shortly. I have an excellent windshield that came off a babied 59K car (minor accident finished it) that I've parted out. I had the units professionally removed. Encapsulation is in excellent condition, no chips, wiper marks or sandblasting evident on the glass and the tint band is a perfect deep green color (no sun fade). I can bring it to your or your glass shop's door for $ 800.00, satisfaction guaranteed. I also have the back glass available (from an '88, so no RKE antenna). Figure another $ 200.00 for it with the windshield, 300 without (gotta cover driving costs). Not dying to pack and ship this across the country. Figure I'm willing to deliver anywhere from DC to Boston or an equivalent distance.

About 61%, which seems pretty impressive to me. http://forums.aaca.org/f116/reatta-survival-rate-291580.html

I've been doing updates every couple of months to the sticky usually to update the RockAuto discount code as well as adding vendors when requested. Anyways, we've lost a some resources recently and I don't know what if anything should replace 'em. Jaxed is back thankfully, but we've lost: CompNine for RPO lookups. LakeshoreWheelAndTire for refinished rims. Any suggestions for inclusion in the listing?

As do I. Also sitting on another 8(?) complete assemblies. I really have a parts hoarding problem. Thing is if I see something pop up priced too cheaply I feel compelled to buy it.

This sign was purchased by me back in August 2010. The poster had it on eBay with a "buy it now" price of $400.00 One benefit of usually waking up at an ungodly hour, I was able to snatch it up. Sign was in NJ, so I was able to drive over and pick it up, saving the quoted $100 added cost for shipping. Seller was a nice guy in his late thirties/early forties, worked in a Buick dealer as a teen, sign was in a room of junk he was instructed to throw out. He saved it, it went to college with him and hung in his dorm room... Married with kids, sign had been sitting in a box in his garage for ages. He had no particular connection with Reattas.

Craigslist and eBay are very much at odds with each other... read about the whole tangled mess below: eBay Wins Lawsuit Against Craigslist

Looks like Jaxed.com has developed a work-around for craigslist's cease and desist order. Make sure to check the "include 3Taps" box when searching.. car and truck site mash : combined site search

AFAIR the numbers are on the compass module connector port, plug the connector in and the number/color issue should be readily resolved. My install allowed for a full data loop to the compass as shown in the FSM. Apparently the factory just dead-ended a single data line at the compass, hence the lack of the fourth wire which should not affect operation.

The Teves system (like all brake systems) require that warning lights not be ignored. Admittedly the Teves system is more sensitive to neglect than standard braking systems, but at the time of production it was the only method to achieve anti-lock braking so it was clearly a net-add to one's safety. If the pump-pump parking brake bothers you, D-a-n-i-e-l has already posted the solution, complete with a parts list. http://forums.aaca.org/f116/bolt-brake-rattle-solution-upgrade-304512.html

It's definitely a Lesabre front end. Reminds me of the sham "prototype" Reatta that has popped up a few times as well. http://forums.aaca.org/f116/prototype-278808.html

I've used the Infiniti Kappa, not Reference. The Kappas are 2 Ohm impedance and give higher apparent sound output. The Reference series that Marck linked to are more suited to much higher wattage applications than our factory systems. Reattatude, I've never had a problem getting the radio in and out through the top of the console and while admittedly I've taken apart and reassembled my Reattas a lot of times, getting to the rear speaker brackets is not a huge project, figure even if you've never done it before it'll take an hour or so start to finish.

"A fool and his money...." And I gotta agree with Marck, a deal is a deal. If I could've done better elsewhere that's on ME not the seller and my word is my bond. I'd rather "lose" a little money and keep my ethical standards and reputation intact.

Electroluminescent film which provides the backlighting for the pods dims over time from use. It does not appear that it is necessarily directly a time-issue as I have come across NOS switches that are very bright, so it does not appear that there is appreciable degradation while the item is sitting in a box. Degraded output from electroluminescent film can be counteracted by increasing the voltage applied, though I'm not suggesting that going to a higher voltage inverter is advisable, just that that is a theoretical solution. Given how seemingly simple reproducing the overlays for the window and mirror switches appears to be and the total lack of interest in getting them reproduced, I'll just continue to snatch up every good switch I can get my hands on. As far as headlight vs. wiper switch differences in degradation, just a WAG but the headlight switch is likely exposed to much more direct sunlight, so maybe it's a cumulative heat/UV exposure thing?

Those should be genuine 16-ways, no? Power headrests and bolsters?

I'd definitely go with the Sensatracs, and by all means replace the mounts, they're cheap and replacing them after the fact is really expensive.

IP addy shows as Wayne NJ.

Just as an FYI, the current RockAuto Discount code is always listed within the "Reatta Resources" sticky at the top of both Reatta Forums.

I'll second Ronnie's advice. Also exercising the switch occasionally.. I usually run the fogs first then go to headlights when needed, as a result the parking light portion of the switch never gets used. I had an issue with the dash backlighting turning off when I'd switch to brights, exercising the headlamp switch by cycling it through its paces cured the problem. You can use the lamp retract switch to prevent excessive cycling of the headlamp retract motors when doing this.

Seems to me we could get the original letters 3D scanned and CNC new stainless steel letters. Would also limit the amount of finesse required when power-poilishing the tail light as well..

On my old '89 the parking brake worked just fine, but it nonetheless had the sag evident in the parking brake cable under the driver's door only when the parking brake wasn't engaged. Never got around to addressing it.