Rawja

You master cylinder overflowed because you had the system overfilled. Before adding fluid to the master, it's required that you de-pressurize the system by pumping the brakes (with the car turned off) at least 25 times until the pedal is rock hard. THEN you add fluid to the fill line on the reservoir.

With the button removed from the wheel you can confirm continuity using an electrical tester and pressing the button.

I'd cross-shop pricing, In my experience GM Parts Direct: Your direct source for Genuine GM Parts has lower prices. Just make sure you factor in the shipping and handling costs.

Please, not the polo green convertible argument again.

The original fillers had latex incorporated in the mix to provide flexibility. Whether on a car or in a box, at this point they are all brittle. Primarily speaking from Cadillac experience, the repros need a great deal of coaxing and adjusting to fit correctly, but can be made to work. A friend of mine went with the ABS kit and eventually had to resort to a heat gun, but in the end they look and fit correctly now.

I always just send 'em out. Too many fiddley bits for me to have confidence in my repair. These guys are good: Delco , Ford , and Chrysler Radio Wholesaler , M & R Electronics is one of the largest Delco radio distributors in the Country

The following is excerpted from Padgett's Headlight Crank Review with analysis of the available options to repair the headlight retracting mechanisms on the Reatta: One of the most common failures in the Reatta is in the motor and linkage that raises and lowers the headlamps. While most worked well for the first few years, two decades out from the last manufacture, nearly all have experienced failure, either for the headlamp not to rise, to do a dance while rising, or to rise then drop. All are caused by the same mechanical failure. Some years ago I wrote an article on the repair of Fiero headlamps. While that covered part of the issue, decay of the rollers, the Reatta and the Fiero both have additional failure modes and each is different. While the Fiero would often strip the large nylon gear, instead the Reatta strips the inside of the pot metal crank assembly. When removed an oval original hole has become round. Since the shaft inside is smooth, it then simply spins instead of raising the headlamp. Note: Whenever an unknown assembly is replaced, also replace the three rollers inside the motor. These have often decayed into powder. While the crank can be replaced in the car, unless you know the rollers are good, the extra time should be taken to replace the rollers also. Also any time work is done on the headlamps, check the plastic upstop nut and retainer since compression of the retainer is what keeps a headlamp from vibrating. Some of the kits reviewed include these parts as well. The full article describing each solution is available by clicking the link below. Padgett's Review of Replacement Headlight Motor Crank Arms

The following is excerpted from Padgett's Headlight Crank Review with analysis of the available options to repair the headlight retracting mechanisms on the Reatta: One of the most common failures in the Reatta is in the motor and linkage that raises and lowers the headlamps. While most worked well for the first few years, two decades out from the last manufacture, nearly all have experienced failure, either for the headlamp not to rise, to do a dance while rising, or to rise then drop. All are caused by the same mechanical failure. Some years ago I wrote an article on the repair of Fiero headlamps. While that covered part of the issue, decay of the rollers, the Reatta and the Fiero both have additional failure modes and each is different. While the Fiero would often strip the large nylon gear, instead the Reatta strips the inside of the pot metal crank assembly. When removed an oval original hole has become round. Since the shaft inside is smooth, it then simply spins instead of raising the headlamp. Note: Whenever an unknown assembly is replaced, also replace the three rollers inside the motor. These have often decayed into powder. While the crank can be replaced in the car, unless you know the rollers are good, the extra time should be taken to replace the rollers also. Also any time work is done on the headlamps, check the plastic upstop nut and retainer since compression of the retainer is what keeps a headlamp from vibrating. Some of the kits reviewed include these parts as well. The full article describing each solution is available by clicking the link below. Padgett's Reatta Crank Page

That hood mod was done by a forum member. http://forums.aaca.org/f116/forward-tilt-hood-hinges-184969.html http://forums.aaca.org/f116/forward-tilt-hood-compleated-191075.html

I can say that it works perfectly mounted under the rear window shelf. That's where it was installed on the Riviera, probably for the very reasons you're describing.

The compass on my iPhone never works right in the car. When I did this mod it was pre-smart phone and I used a regular old compass. Just knowing where north really is when you calibrate should be adequate.

'86-91 Eldorado and Seville should also be the same.

First off like Dave said, If you break the vent or dash top it isn't the end to the world. I have some pics with me on my laptop.. They weren't taken for this purpose so bear with me. Here's the vent: If you look here you'll see the little tabs that lock it to the dash top. The reason I suggested credit cards or the like is it allows you to keep each locking tab unlocked. moving along the seam with say a putty knife will work, but as you move along the line in my experience the tabs re-engage the dash top. Very frustrating. ...and yes, you want to work the seam closest to you.

Apparently the compass module will work with a single data line, and was equipped with the single line from the factory. I came up with my wiring by utilizing the service manual which shows two data lines (loop). Another case where the manual differs from reality I guess.

I've had some success sliding credit cards (actually they were expired PBA cards) between the defrost grill and the dash top to get the defrost grille removed. Used a bunch simultaneously to keep the tabs disengaged. The torx screws are exposed by the removal of the defrost grill. The edge of the dash top closest to you is held by friction clips. Be VERY VERY careful about prying as the soft dash front is likely to crack if you use it as a point of leverage prying the top up. Try laying something flat and rigid across the soft part of the dash to evenly distribute the force you'll be imparting into the dash front by prying.

Bumped thread by request.

I was just sent this pic.. I would expect that the panels are the same 90-93 and the cloth/leather inserts would be interchangeable. Thanks again.

For a friend of mine in Phoenix. Looking for something without cracks or damage. Thanks,

There's one on Autotrader. Cars for Sale: 1999 Buick Riviera Supercharged Coupe in Elgin, IL 60124: Coupe Details - 320086875 - AutoTrader.com

Would be nice to have on record here on the forum, no?

What's the deal? We have a new user looking for assistance with this part. If you're selling them, tell us how much. If you're not what possible reason could you have for withholding the part number?? What's the point of this? :confused::confused::confused:

They're legally importable to Canada at this point. Japanoid.com - Home

The rubber surrounds on the windshield and back glass are encapsulations bonded and integral to the glass units. They're not replaceable without replacing the glass.

As near as I can tell, no one is compelling anyone to do anything. The number one selling vehicle for I dunno the last three decades has been the Ford F-150, hardly a fuel-sipping green-mobile. The point I was trying to make was that "We the people" collectively make decisions to incentivize people to make decisions that are believed to serve the greater good. It's everywhere. Hybrid tax rebates. Diesel car tax rebates (expired 2010) Oil exploration tax credits. Mortgage interest deductibility. Dependent deductions. Tax exempt status for religious organizations. Married joint filing (which usually results in significant tax savings). It's real easy for me to say "Why should I be subsidizing your marriage/kids/church/car/oil/house?" I don't resent mortgage interest deductibility any more than you should resent a tax credit for buying a hybrid. There's plenty of things the government spends on that I don't support, but I recognize that I'm one of +/- 311,000,000 so I can't reasonably expect that everything is going to be the way that I want it. I know where you're going with this. First off none of the sedan versions of "regular" cars offer the utility of the Prius, secondly the Prius is something of the gold standard of hybrids. If you want to imagine every Prius is a smug nyah-nyah statement aimed towards you I suppose that's your right even if you're wrong. February 2012 hybrid sales spiked at two-and-a-half-times the increase of the also rising passenger vehicle market. Camry Hybrid sales are at 11% of total up from 5% last year and projected to be 40,000 units for the year. There's a tidal wave of new hybrid models coming, pretty much from every automaker. The recent spike in oil prices is going to abet quite an increase in the sales of 'em to be sure. If seeing hybrids out on the roads upsets you, you're in for a very angry future.

I'm acutely aware of the dangerous ground one treads when the subject of taxation comes up around here, so I'll try to stay with generalities. The government provides all sorts of incentives for all sorts of things. Is your mortgage deduction coming out of my pocket? Sure it is, just as much as the incentives for purchasing a Volt, putting solar panels on your house... or for that matter tax credits given for oil exploration. We live in a SOCIETY. As agreed upon through our (imperfect) representative republic system certain behaviors are rewarded and others are penalized. Saving energy (for whatever motivation, saving the earth or reducing our dependence on antagonistic furriners) has been determined to be in our greater national interest. Projecting "smugness" on hybrid drivers by conservatives is about as useful as projecting "neanderthal" on SUV/pickup drivers by liberals. It's pointless and mostly inaccurate. There are plenty of conservatives (Lutz being a good example) who can appreciate cutting edge technology and saving money on fuel, and not feeding the aforementioned "enemies" of the US and there are plenty of truck-driving, car-loving liberals, stereotypes be damned. Being against something just because you perceive people you generally disagree with as being for it is counter-productive. Just sayin'