Rawja

Just to clarify, the failure of the IPC cannot create a condition where the car won't start. Ronnie's suggestion to clean the ignition key may help with your "no start" if the cause is a problem with the PassKey system not reading your key chip.

Jusst checked, the Goodyear Eagle GT's indicate 51 PSI as the maximum pressure. Just filled 'em to 50 PSI. On the short rides back from the service station both the Reatta and Allante seemed to exhibit improved turn-in response, though on the Allante there was a teeny bit more cowl shake. I'll report back when I have some MPG data.

I got them from Steveskyhawk. Did a write-up on them when I got 'em a few years ago HERE, dunno about the current pricing. As far as the MPG penalty, It was as compared to the "correct" skinny tires. I've been running them at 35 PSI but I'm contemplating running higher pressures. I acquired a '00 Honda Insight about a month ago which has had me paying a great deal of attention to maximizing MPG's and given the extraordinary sensitivity to the slightest changes in operating parameters the Insight demonstrates, many of the Insight forum folks are running crazy-high tire pressures (some are running 90 PSI, and claiming no ill-effects) and are indicating that it can add 5-10 MPGs on the Insight. Another anecdote that I can relate regards my Allante which I purchased out here in Phoenix and drove back to NY. I didn't trust the tires which came on the car so I bought a new set of the Goodyear Eagle GTs so I wouldn't have tire worries for the 2800 mile drive home. Long story short the tire place had left them pressurized at 70PSI and I didn't check the pressures prior to the making the trip. Made it home with high-twenties for milage, "fixed" the tire pressure upon discovery back in NY (to 35 PSI) and subsequent gas mileage dropped to around 15-20, I mostly chalked-up the change to being in congested NY and didn't give it another thought. Now that I live out in Phoenix, my Allante mileage is running about 20-23MPG but I'm wondering if the trade-offs of higher tire pressures (maybe 50PSI?) might be worth it. The damn Insight has completely ruined my perceptions of what constitutes acceptable gas mileage. :-/

Bulldog stance is a very apt metaphor. Snapped some pics this evening...

I just moved away from Long Island. Dunno where on the island you are, but this place can help you: Nick's Auto Repair Centre 85 Sea Cliff Ave Glen Cove, NY 11542 (516) 671-2140 Nick had been servicing all my cars for several years, let him know I sent you, and your car has the same braking system as a Reatta.

The car with the "true" 16-ways was the '86 Riviera 'T' Type.

Ditto on retaining the stock tweeters.

My Reatta is presently in remote storage, I'll probably be able to get pics by say, Wednesday. Here's some photos I was able to locate/take which'll give you an idea of how they look. On the Reatta, they especially enhance the view from the rear as they appear very wide and give the car an aggressive stance. I should probably mention that they aren't the best tire for fuel economy, I lost approximately 3-5MPGs on the both the Reatta and the '88 Seville compared to their previous tires, but like I previously stated I'm very happy with the trade-off. I'm running the Kumhos that Bushwack recommended on my Trans Sport. They're good tires as well, just a different set of attributes.

I'm running Goodyear Eagle GT 225/55R16's on my '88 (with '99 Riviera chrome wheels). I originally bought a set for my Allante and liked 'em so much I've installed them on the Reatta and my '88 Seville as well. They look sweet, really meaty and cornering is extraordinary. Another plus is the construction of the tire makes curbing the rims very unlikely.

Yup, that's Steveskyhawk.

Seems to me the inertia mechanisms in both the seat and seatbelt would keep movement of the kiddie seat to a minimum in the event of a crash. I have taken my friends' kids out in my Reatta with their seats installed in the passenger seat and it all seemed to be secure.

A member of the forum has suggested that I add www.Reattas.com to the resources thread. Last I heard, they were for the most part unresponsive to requests for pricing/parts. Have anyone had a good experience using them? In keeping with forum rules, if you have a horror story about dealing with this vendor let me know via PM, not a public posting. I don't think reporting lack of response in this particular case constitutes anything "out of bounds" as that's been the consensus opinion for some time.

She has an '89.

Your signature pic appears to be working.

Here's what I use sitting on the console top when in use, easily handles the 52oz cup size I'm partial to. It has a non-skid base I just place a finger on the top during hard cornering and stow it in the rear shelf compartment when not in use. It's called The Octopus Cup Holder and it's really inexpensive.

Great vids.

Ronnie, Could you explain how the amazon store commission thing works? I was under the impression that you only received commission on the individual items you have on your store. If you're receiving commission on a "wrong" sensor it would imply they didn't get it in your store. I just ordered a new alternator for my '88 Seville on Amazon and if there is a way that I could've gotten you a commission i certainly would've done it that way.

This stuff definitely works: ANODIZE REMOVER

Does anyone know what specifically would need to be modified or is this just an abstraction?

The thing with the positive cable is that the copper within the cable can corrode where it meets up with the battery connection. This is not visually apparent as the corrosion is within the cable itself and hidden by the insulation. If you move the cable around near this connection (assuming the battery connection is properly-tight) and the car starts stumbling or if the cable feels "crunchy" internally or less solid than it feels further away from the battery, that's likely the problem assuming your grounds are good. I went through this with my old '89, went nuts tracking other items down to no avail, when I discovered this was the problem it was fixed by simply skinning the wire further down to where the copper was good and installed a new battery connector which solved all the intermittent weirdness I was experiencing.

I'd take a quick look at your battery cables, particularly the positive cable which can corrode internally. Give both the positive and negative cables a wiggle while the car is running and see if you can reproduce the problem.

Wow I had no idea Compnine was back. Cool!

This has happened to almost every one of us when we were new to the car. Welcome to the forum!

Love the sunshade.

You've answered your own question....You need to replace the harmonic balancer.