Rawja

I have a windshield for you. I'm on the island, came off a babied 59K car (minor accident finished it) that I'm parting out. I had the windshield professionally removed. Encapsulation is in excellent condition, no chips, wiper marks or sandblasting evident on the glass and the tint band is a perfect deep green color (no sun fade). I can bring it to your or your glass shop's door for $ 800.00, satisfaction guaranteed. I'm about to leave on a road trip to FL this Friday AM, could run it up to you tomorrow (PM) or I can get it to you when I return after about a week.

There's a procedure for checking the resistance of the individual valve solenoids in the valve block. If it would be a help I can loan your mechanic the breakout box the dealers used back in the day. I also have a complete master sitting in a box if you're interested. It's also possible the aforementioned crud in your fluid jammed up the works and caused your problem. I'd drive it and see if the problem returns again.

Just a note on the Allante F7 transmission, while it is indeed "stronger", as a one-off edition of this transmission family there is near zero parts availability for many seemingly mundane parts of it and you'll pay through the nose if one of those pieces fails.

I recently did the coil upgrade on my '88. Car was not exhibiting the "classic" signs of coilpack failure, but had a very rough and stumble-y idle. Runs smooth now.

I'm a believer in ABS, has saved my a$$ many times over over the years. I don't avoid cars without it or anything, but given the choice I'd rather have it than not. That said, I'm certain that a later model vacuum-operated ABS system could be retrofitted, just a matter of time now 'till one of the more advanced forum users here does it...

Here's the info for one-pump emergency brakes, Angelo: http://forums.aaca.org/f116/bolt-brake-rattle-solution-upgrade-304512.html

Your pump might be on its way out as well. As far as I recall the pump and the pressure switch are sold as a unit, last time I bought 'em it was three hundred and change. Here's the three firewall relays: I realize it's a bit late, but I'd swap the firewall relays around (they're all the same relay) I'd drive the car 'till I experienced failure again. If it does fail again (I suspect it's exacerbated by the addition of summertime heat to the engine bay) give the pump/pressureswitch assembly a rap or two with a pair of pliers of something of the like with medium mass. It it starts running then swap out the pump/pressure switch assembly. Like I said it's around three hundred and easily swapped out in under a half an hour with basic hand tools, don't bother with the mechanic. If you want to go whole-hog and go with a completely rebuilt master assembly, there was a source doing them for six of seven hundred recently, off the top of my head I can't recall the source. Barney knows who I'm sure, but I think it'd be a waste of $.

That is definitely the wrong color.

Install 'em with the covers as well. You have the clearance and it eliminates buzzing caused by the door panel's foam surround contacting the live parts of the speaker.

My two '89s and two '88s all had grey interiors, all same color grey across the dash and pad. I'd venture Padgett's Grey was interior'd dashtop was black and has faded a bit. My blue '90 (900732) has a black column, blue bagback and blue dashtop. I've seen many many GM steering wheels with smooth black rubber under the leather wrapping.

The BCA National Meet. http://forums.aaca.org/f115/bca-national-meet-2013-a-305545.html

What's wrong with your tail light assembly?

Here's what you're looking for: http://forums.aaca.org/f177/clock-65-riv-245074.html

I used Auto Transport | Car Shipping | Free Vehicle Shipping Quotes - Dependable Auto Shippers a few years back Idaho to NYC. Was very satisfied. uShip - The Online Shipping Marketplace - Ship Freight, Furniture, Cars or Moves is also worth looking at.

The problem is lowering the rear. It utilizes a transverse composite (plastic or sumphin') leaf spring, not much can be done as far as modifying that.

http://forums.aaca.org/f116/2012-bca-500-national-meet-info-306904.html

Just drop 'em off at Jiffy Lube (or the equivalent). In NY they are required to accept used oil and filters. I don't change the oil in my cars myself but I bring them the used oil and filters from the scooter.

I've been obsessed with the Reatta from the moment I saw the first spy photo i think a coupla years before the introduction. 20 some-odd years later and it hasn't abated one bit. Best I can reckon it's exactly the "high tech" sports car I imagined I'd be driving in the future (other than it not flying) during my pre-adolescent feverish automotive daydreams back in the 70's.... I suppose it's now retro-futuristic but it nonetheless still gives me a thrill even after 10+ years of driving one.

You can also contact Jim Finn JFinn@CPInternet.com . He'll have what you need at a reasonable price.

Yeah I forgot to mention that. The current 5% discount code is always on the http://forums.aaca.org/f116/reatta-resources-287447.html page.

Rockauto.com has everything you're looking for.

Talk to these guys: Sinister Performance, LLC. They can help you out, even if you're doing the work yourself.

Sinister Performance, LLC. Cost me 60 bucks AFAIR. Best money I've ever spent.

That radio was used in Roadmasters as well. Just search eBay for Buick Radio and something suitable will come up, for directly compatible size and harness you're looking for +/- 1988-1996. Other GM radios from this time period will also work, but illumination colors will likely be wrong.

I REALLY took advantage of Sears' lifetime alignment back when they offered it in the eighties. Lived in Brooklyn at the time and between the truly awful condition of the roads and my errr... "youthful exuberance" behind the wheel I had to get the car realigned pretty much once a quarter. Was $99 lifetime vs. $49 for a single alignment AFAIR.