Bob McAnlis

Al suggest you drop the carberator level down so the bowl level is below the bottom of the frame if you are planning gravity feed . Also open the inlet to the float bowl to about .115 /.120 diameter. If you will run a fuel pump then this will not matter. But dropping the carb level should also give you more installation space

I’ll amend my input to indicate the wood to which I am referring is packaging wood. Pallets for parts inside the car or not.

Work with a forwarding company or broker that knows how to handle all the necessary forms and paperwork. Vehicle must be dry meaning cooling system, engine oil, transmission and rear greases, and fuel removed any wood used in packaging must be heat treated and stamped as such. or made from processed wood like plywood or chipboard. This is a big/pest control requirement that must be followed. It is is probable that a fumigation is also required for similar reason. None of the the above are difficult to tackle. But the wood issue is one that is very difficult to address once the vehicle and parts are already in transit. Best of luck.

Yes, we have been using products like this for many years. Maybe 10? It is excellent. I just finished a pail and need to get another. Current material is Conoco 1044025, Dynalife L-EP 00. It has all the benefits Ken indicates above. Hard to get into differential , but with big funnel and patience and disposable gloves it all works out. I recommend...

On the 1906 Olds photo, interesting wheel rings. Demountable rings that bolt on to capture the bead.. Not a configuration I have seen before. Bob

Guys. I am very interested in this topic and thanks for putting it out there. I need to be sure I am okay with a gravity feed to a newly installed BB1. Carbking I am pretty sure you are talking about the inlet hole size for the float operated inlet valve. While Steve, you seem to be talking about the main jet orifice. I’ll be looking at both this next week Thanks bob mcanlis

I recognize your car and the prior owners names. There may be an article about your Premier in AACA magazine long ago, maybe in the 60s. Try looking into that. It could also be from VMCCA as well. I don’t believe it was HCCA gazette. Good luck.

Mike. Nice project. A gear reduction starter would work. If drive gear as purchased does not match, perhaps you could match a gear from the starter that drives the Cummins ring in standard application to the gear reduction unit. Happy hunting.

Mike. Two other options to consider. If your flywheel is exposed and flat, you could run a flat belt around the OD to a tractor starter/generator unit and get both starting and generating in one application. This I have seen done often on two cyl cars but also successfully on a 50hp brass four. Second option is to mount a free standing ring on some standoffs. Perhaps this could be done in a way to step down to a smaller OD ring depending on your clutch configuration. We have done this on brass Renault where there are fan blades around the OD to draw air thru the radiator. Just some alternate thoughts to get the job done.

I have had headlight mirrors resilvered at Bear Glass in Brooklyn NY. Good work within the past two years. Bob McAnlis Chagrin Falls, OH

Yes. It is a 1914 Oakland Model 43. I have one. It is a southern tread. Perhaps the first wide track Pontiac.

Try Kenworthy

Really, this car looks like a 1908/9/10 Lozier in a later race than 1904. Nice photo though. Hopefully the # on the car can be tied to a race directory, but this seems to be a few years newer than 1904. Bob McAnlis Chagrin Falls, OH

Thanks very much Curt. Happy T-Day Bob

Curt: Do you have any photos of the interior on the Oakland body? Any way to forward the contact info of the new owner? We will replace upholstry on a 14 Model 43 we have later this winter, and it would be nice to have some photos for comparison if possible. Thanks Bob McAnlis rjmcanlis@prodigy.net

Curt: Please tell me about the 13/14 Oakland body. Is it model 42 or 43? Is there more than the body? THanks Bobo McAnlis Chagrin Falls, OH

Still looking . Thanks

Wanted 26" Stanweld rims, demountable & detachable, and rings for same. Rims are typically stamped Stanweld in large font, and say 34 x 4 in a smaller font. For 1914 Oakland. Also Delco ignition and light switch for same. Please contact John McAnlis 330 336 4511. mcanlisjon@aol.com Thanks<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

Wanted 26" Stanweld rims, demountable & detachable, and rings for same. Reims are typically stamped Stanweld in large font, and say 34 x 4 in a smaller font. For 1914 Oakland. Also Delco ignition and light switch for same. Please contact John McAnlis 330 336 4511. mcanlisjon@aol.com Thanks

Looks to be EMF. Say 1910

Looks like a Winton

Gavin Beautiful work. If you google 1911 Paris Breese you will see a similar concept. Not a skiff, but nice for reference. You probably know this one already. My question today is - where is the cooling fan for the engine. Is there one by the radiator? or is it in the flywheel? If in the flywheel, Airflow through the radiator with the side vents you are planning might be concerning. Bob McAnlis

I am pretty sure this car belonged to BC Hartline in Akron OH. He had more than one Cunningham. All the cars are long since gone, but included Locomobiles, Pierce Arrows, Cunninghams, 2 Duesenburgs, a McFarlan, 2 Northerns and a Model T. I used to ride my bike there to shine brass. Bob McAnlis

T Head is absolutly right. BOth the upturn of the front fender and the storage area under the running boards spell Stoddard Dayton to me.