Bob McAnlis

Sorry Dave: I don't have a manual. But I do recommend the following before you drive. make sure engine bolts and transmission bolts are tight to the frame. make sure the drive shaft front and rear are greased. If there is a lot of wear here, you should fix it before too much driving. take some grease on your fingers and press into the throw out bearing depress the clutch and add a couple squirts of Neadsfoot oil from a pump oil can to the clutch surface. Depress clutch in and out and move clutch with slight rotation to get the neadsfoot oil distributed around to the clutch surface. The surface is leather. you don't want to soak it, but you want there to be some slip ability when the surfaces contact so you don't jerk everything. when the car is not being run, make a stick to keep the clutch pedal depressed . Mine goes up to the hub of the steering wheel. set drippers to engine about one drop per 5 to 7 seconds. transmission is three speed. reverse is all way back and high is all way forward. This should get you going. Renault did not make their own bodies. chassis were sent around the world to different places and bodied locally to minimize import tariffs. You will see lots of differences in style and construction. Have fun and report back. Bob Mcanlis

Yes. The fins on the flywheel are original. I don’t have a photo at the moment, but the engine compartment is sealed too and bottom and the only air entry is thru the radiator. Back to the oil question above, on my photo there is a brass knob with two holes showing behind the mag. On my engine this has two positions, just open and closed. There is a dip stick in the center of the knob. On the earlier engines as for the 1909, this knob will have three positions. Closed, a drain complete position , and a partial drain position. If the engine is now empty of oil in the sump, add a quart and open the valve to the partial drain position The goal is to have oil in the engine up to the partial set position to run the engine. It should be about a quart. Hope this helps organize getting it running. By serial number, this is a 1909 Renault. Also. On the rear axle about halfway from the diff out to the brakes, the date of manufacture of the axle assembly will be stamped near to the top of the tube. Please add a photo of your car. Anxious to see it! Thanks

Oil is added to an AX engine at the front. In the photo attached of my 1912 engine (newer style with oil pump) the brass cap above the gears driving the mag is where the oil is added. The oil will communicate to the sump. In the earlier style AX engine like you have, oil is added in the same place. I would not have the sump all the way dry when starting, but will add specific comments after I am able to speak with my brother. We have 5 AX in the family. They are fantastic little machines. After very early initial use of DeDion engines, by about 1902 or 3 Renault made all their own engines.

I have been using OO grease in my brass cars transmissions and rear ends. Google OO grease. that is OhOh rather than ZeroZero. It is pourable grease. Very sticky. I have used maybe 20 gallons over the last half dozen years. I have used different brands. All are more greenish hue. Very good stuff.

No. My car was part of Hartline collection from early Fifties until I obtained in late eighties

Yes, the upper picture is 1912 Loco. 7p touring. Attached is a photo of my 1911 Loco 48. The first year for the 48. It has a 4p Torpedo body and was the forerunner of the Sportif. I won the Grand Champion Award at the OlD Car Festival at GFVillage in 2016.

Hi all: i have my 1911 Maxwell EA for sale on the HCCA web site. Please check it out. http://www.hcca.org/classifieds.php?cars#12736 thanks Bob McAnlis Chagrin Falls, OH

Al suggest you drop the carberator level down so the bowl level is below the bottom of the frame if you are planning gravity feed . Also open the inlet to the float bowl to about .115 /.120 diameter. If you will run a fuel pump then this will not matter. But dropping the carb level should also give you more installation space

I’ll amend my input to indicate the wood to which I am referring is packaging wood. Pallets for parts inside the car or not.

Work with a forwarding company or broker that knows how to handle all the necessary forms and paperwork. Vehicle must be dry meaning cooling system, engine oil, transmission and rear greases, and fuel removed any wood used in packaging must be heat treated and stamped as such. or made from processed wood like plywood or chipboard. This is a big/pest control requirement that must be followed. It is is probable that a fumigation is also required for similar reason. None of the the above are difficult to tackle. But the wood issue is one that is very difficult to address once the vehicle and parts are already in transit. Best of luck.

Yes, we have been using products like this for many years. Maybe 10? It is excellent. I just finished a pail and need to get another. Current material is Conoco 1044025, Dynalife L-EP 00. It has all the benefits Ken indicates above. Hard to get into differential , but with big funnel and patience and disposable gloves it all works out. I recommend...

On the 1906 Olds photo, interesting wheel rings. Demountable rings that bolt on to capture the bead.. Not a configuration I have seen before. Bob

Guys. I am very interested in this topic and thanks for putting it out there. I need to be sure I am okay with a gravity feed to a newly installed BB1. Carbking I am pretty sure you are talking about the inlet hole size for the float operated inlet valve. While Steve, you seem to be talking about the main jet orifice. I’ll be looking at both this next week Thanks bob mcanlis

I recognize your car and the prior owners names. There may be an article about your Premier in AACA magazine long ago, maybe in the 60s. Try looking into that. It could also be from VMCCA as well. I don’t believe it was HCCA gazette. Good luck.

Mike. Nice project. A gear reduction starter would work. If drive gear as purchased does not match, perhaps you could match a gear from the starter that drives the Cummins ring in standard application to the gear reduction unit. Happy hunting.