Fred Rawling

Steve, The count last week was 23 cars and 4 swapers. We usually get a lot of cars showing up on the day of the show and expect between 50 and 60 cars if it runs as it usually does. Fred

The Orange County Chapter show is Sunday, October 12, at Enderly Center in Tustin. We have the rear corner of the shopping center away from all the traffic of the center. The location is East 17th Street 1 block east of the 55 Freeway. The show hours are 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. and the swap hours are from day light until the vendors leave. Judging is from 10:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. and trophies will be awarded at 2:30. E-mail me for an e-mailed registration form or for a map. I can also fax one if you wish. I am handeling the swap meet part and you will not be cramped into a postage stamp sized space. fredrawling@verizon.net

Thanks for the response. That would be great. You can e-mail me at fredrawling@verizon.net.

I ran across a guy looking for a 23 Dodge tail light and licence plate-tail light holder. This guy has no idea what he is looking for. Can anyone e-mail me a picture or discription so I can help him out?

For Sale: A pair of new Tilt Ray head light lenses that fit 1926 and 1927 masters and 1928 standards. I took them out of the old moldy boxes myself.There are no chips, nicks or scratches. $45.00 per pair plus shipping from Bellflower Ca.

I have some nice port holes at $15.00 each. The pot metal is nice with no or only very very small pits. These would look good on anything but a completely restored car and would plate up nicely. They are complete. I can e-mail you pictures if you are interested.

Left and right front fenders and hood in nice condition $75.00 per piece. Core support $10.00 Brake backing plates $5.00 ea. Heater core (I think-send measuremtnts) $15.00.

IS THE LEAK COMMING FROM THE BALL JOINT ON THE DRIVE LINE OR FROM THE TRANSMISSION. IF IT IS THE BALL JOINT, STOP LEAK WILL NOT HELP. THE SOLUTIONIS TO PULL THE REAR END AND ADJUST THE TENSION ON THE TAIL PIECE FROM THE TRANSMISSION BY ADDING OR REMOVING SHIMS. THIS IS DESCRIBED IN THE SHOP MANUEL. IF YOU NEED A COPY OF THE PAGES, E-MAIL ME AT fredrawling@attbi.com

If anyone finds one for a 1927, I would appreciate some measurements or photos. I need one also. I do have visors for 28 standard and 28 master off the cars and have made copies for a few people. Does anyone else need a copy? fredrawling@attbi.com

It seems to me that I saw the headlamp doors advertised in Bobsautomobila.com Give it a try. You can down load the whole catalogue if you want. Fred

The original Buick trunk that I have had a square Buick decal on the inside of the lid centered and just above the top of the side.

I shipped some stock 61 Invicta wheels from California to Montana. The weight was around 14 pounds each and the cost was around $20.00

I just realized that you are probably looking for the water tube on the head and I was thinking the water pipe from the radiator to the water pump. Sorry for the confusion.

I have some lused con rods for 1930 series 40. What series are you working on?

The best solution that I have found is electrical metal tubing conduit. The 1930 master parts book lists the length that it is supposed to be.

I have camshafts that came out of a 1963 Riviera. Any interest?

Hoods for sale: 1940 ser 80 & 90 - $125.00; 1952 Special & 1951 Roadmaster @ $100.00; 1956 Special nice $50.00, another with a few dings $30.00, 1963 Riviera- nice blocked out primer-no rust but about a one inch bend on one corner- not serious, no rust on front lip $95.00; 1961 Invicta $80.00; 1965 Electra $70.00; 1965 or 1966 Impala $90.00; 1973 Chevy Impala & Caprice $75.00

Hood and front fenders for 1940 ser 90 and ser 80. Nice condition. $125.00 each or offer for the lot. fredrawling@attbi.com

After Dan finishes on your list, send me any that he can not get and I will give it a try.

What a long thread. I have a 1928 Buick Master that has been converted to a pick up with a mid 20's Studebaker bed. We got it in 1982. Since then we have put 74,000 miles on it. It works as a pick up, (right now it is half full of scrap seel that is going to the junk yard. The last time I cleaned up I had a half ton on it), it works in the movies, it goes on the freeways and if I do not drive it for a few days, I miss it and get it out to go to the office. If you set the brakes up like the manual describes, it will stop satisfactorily. I leave at least 2 car lengths in front of me on the streets and I watch the traffic ahead to see what is going to happen. I leave more distance on the freeway. I do not worry about the crazies that want to cut in front of me just because there is space in front of me in the lane. The engine is tired and there is a lot of blow by so I can not go over 45 mph without looking like a destroyer making somke. The cylinder head has a crack and it blows bubbles in the radiator. When I lost a rod bearing, I pulled the bad rod and the rings came out as bb's. I replaced the rings, got another used rod with good babit, plastigaged it and stuck it in and went down the road. With the engine the condition that it is, I figured that I did not have much to loose. That was 2 years ago and I am still going. You can see a picture of it on Yahoo 1927 Buicks group but you have to sign up on the sight to get into the pictures.

Make sure that you put flaps in the tire to protect the tube and make sure that the flap is not folded over allowing the tube to touch the rim. Do not use too much force with either the jack or the rim spreader. Figure out how to push the rim so that the lock lines up. If it does not work one way, move the tool around. Too much force will bend your rim. Do not pound on the rim with pressure on the tool to try to get it to line up. (five stiches experience talking here). The worst part was that I had not eaten all day and I passed out from the shock and peed my pants which the guy in the emergency room announced to everyone. Look in the Buick Club roster for someone close to you that has a pre 1931 Buick. They may have a tool you can borrow or better yet, you may get a lesson on how do do it.

The number was usually stamped on the side of the mounting flange. You can buy rebuild kits and it is not hard to do the job if you have a vice. The factory number for 1941 through 1951 for the 40 and 50 series is 1523520. The part number for 1941 through 1951 for model 60, 70, 90 is 1523530. And just to make things interesting, for replacement engines # 1390885 - 1390886 has been installed on the 1946 to 1949 model 40 and 50, the part number is 5592609. Many times only the last few numbers are stamped on the flange. You can buy rebuild kits from Antique Auto Parts Cellar, Tom Hannaford Jr, box 3, So. Weymouth, Ma 02190 or send him the pump for rebuild. I think bobsautomobilia.com also has rebuild kits.

I would say that it is a 1926 model 47x (120 inch wheel base) or a model 50x ( 128 inch wheel base. It is a Master series because the crank goes through the radiator shell. There should be a plate on the firewalll that has the model number stamped into it. That plate lists the tire pressure for all models. The radiator cap is 27 or 28. I can not see it clearly enough to tell. 1926 had a round cap with flutes on the edge, the same as the standard models for 25 through 27. The crank hole cover and reprints of the owners and shop manuel are available from bobsautomobilia.com. If he does not have the 26 shop manuel, get the 27 one as it is almost the same. If you want an origional owners manuel, I have a nice one for $55.00 and one not quite as nice for $45.00.

Do you still sneed the fender? I may have one for a standard.

I looks like I was not signed in when I put on the message offering help.