Fred Rawling

Pat, What make and application inserts did you use in your 1931

I am having trouble getting my 1928 Buick Master to run right. I have condensation on the intake manifold that I never had before. This may be a clue as to my problem. Does anyone know what causes the condensation? fred.rawling@live.com

I am having trouble getting my 1928 Buick Master to run right. I have condensation on the intake manifold that I never had before. This may be a clue as to my problem. Does anyone know what causes the condensation? fred.rawling@live.com

Do you still need the information. I can send you copies of the pages from my 1934 shop manuel. They are basically the same carbuetor. fred.rawling@live.com 562 644-4670

Have you tried the old hand on the radiator trick to see if there are cold spots. I am betting on the radiator being pluged up. These radiators can be rodded out. There may also be sludge in the bottom tank that is plugging things up.

Would you happen to have any for a Special Wagon?

On my rebuilt 1928 Master I have 70 - 72 psi on each cylinder.

I am pretty sure that Bobsautomobilia.com has a rebuilding service for these vacuum starter switches. Fred

The light in the picture that Mark posted has a chrome bezel around the glass. The picure on the right shows the red lens with a flat spot int he middle which is reflecting the light and makes it look like a different material than the red glass that it is. The large series models had a chrome bezel. The smaller models had a round steel spring wire ring that held the lens in the body. I think that on the earlier cars before 1923, that the body of the light was smaller diameter at the rear than at the front. If I can find my H -K illustrated parts book, I will post a copy of the page with the lights.

Could it be that the clutch is stuck to the flywheel?

Many dealers in obsolete Ford parts have wiper blades. If there is one close, the trick is to take the old one in and ask them to match it. Do not tell them it is for a non Ford product because they will probably tell you that they do not have it.

1929 will not work for you Josef. I had broken spiders on my 1922. I had them welded back and a bead run on the backing plate for extra strength. That said, you should be able to find a 28 rear end. Be aware that the ring gear carier is 1928 only. While the ring and pinion gears will interchanbe with 1927 and earlier, you have to remove the remove the ring gear from the other years and re attach it to the 1928 carrier. 1927 carrier will not fit in the 1928 rear end. I tried it.

For 33 to 35 Buicks, the casting number on the manifold parts is not the same as the parts book numbers 1933 to 1935 80 and 90 series manifolds are interchangable. The 60 series will not interchange with the 80 & 90 series parts. My parts book with the casting numbers that I have been able to collect is loaned out right now so I can not give you the numbers now.

Champion 3X is a pipe thread plug and will not work. If you want a plug with the brass top, you can use Champion C4 but you have to find an old nos or good used plug. As far as I know, they do not make a modern C4 with the brass head. There is no advantage to running the Champion W18 that I know of. The disadvantage is that the W18 is a longer plug and could interfere with the spark plug cover and without the rubber strip like John used. THE CARBURETOR SHOP rebuilds the carburetors. Several years ago I inquired about rebuilding a 1928 carb.. The cost was somewhere around $250.00. If it is just leaking, why not take it apart and put in new gaskets. I cut my own from gasket paper.

The gap should be .040 per the David Chambers article from Antique Auto March/April 1971

There are 2 bands that go around it to attach it to the fire wall. It takes 1/4-20 round head screws and hex nuts to attach it. Be careful with the fitting at the top. It is die cast and fragile.

Is anyone willing to guess the value of a 66 impalla 4 door running with a rebuilt engine, and no rust except arount the back window. I looked on e-bay and all that I found were 2 door models Fred

Complete car with no rust located in Southern California. It has not been taken apart. Engine Frozen 1 extra set of sheet metal in Fresh black lacqure 2 extra engines, one rebuilt 1 extra trans 1 extra 3rd member Upholstry needs to be redone. $6,500.00 fred.rawling@live.com 562 644-4670

This is a 5 1/2 pound book covering all series. $20.00 post paid anywhere in the U.S. All pages are there. The pages are clean with no greasy fingerprints. The front cover is torn loose about half way up the spline. The bottom right corner of the pages is bent up for about 1/2 inch from the corner. Still a good deal for nearly 6 pounds of information. For fastest reply, e-maile me at fred.rawling@live.com 562 644-4670

I set the valves at .008 to .010 after I install the rocker arm and then after the engine is warm, I set them with the engine running. I like .008 on the intake and .010 on the exhaust even though the book calls for .008. Then after a run down the freeway, I check them again while the engine is really hot.

Your car should have the springs on the brake drums. I have some different size drums with the springs on them. If you need any, send me a measurement off your spring and I will see if any that I have are the same. fred.rawling@live.com 562 644-4670 Fred

Bob's information is correct. You do not need flat washers behind the cup washers. They were not there originaly.

Looking for David Fenner. I sent him a tail light lens and the package came back with a note that I had the wrong address on it. fred.rawling@live.com 562 644-4670 If he is not on this forum, does anyone know him?

I have one that looks like an oversized V8 ford distributor from 1935 to 1948. If that is what you are looking for, send me an e-mail and I will send you some photos. I am asking $90.00 for it. The rotor is in good condition with no chips and the body is clean. fred.rawling@live.com 562 644-4670

the trans will bolt right up. 26 engines do not have the rubber motor mounts at the rear. 1927 does so there is a modification to be made if you swap engines. You can keep the upper crank case and just change the cylinder block as the block is interchangeable. 26 heads do not have studs on each end of the exhaust maniforld. 1927 does but you can still interchange the manifolds.