Fred Rawling

Success. I tried an electric impact wrench and a long pipe on an L socket handle. Both did not work. Finally it was suggested that I brace the breaker bar and tap the starter. I cut a 4 x 8 to length from the ground to the center of the nut. I put the socket on the L handle. I did not want to use the breaker bar for fear of breaking it at the swivel poing. The second tap broke it loose. I found that the penetrating oil had reached the threads and it still took a lot of force to break the bolt.

Thanks for the response. I am trying to remove it. I have access to an electric impact wrenc which someone on the other forum suggersted. I will try that first. Then the breaker bar starter option. Fred

Thanks for the answere. I did mean harmonic balancer. I do have access to an electric impact wrench. I will try that. Thanks for confirming that they are right hand threads.

I am trying to remove the torsion balancer from the engine. I have the torque wrench set to 150 pounds and the nut is not moving. I tried jumping on the handle of the breaker bar and it is not moving. Does anyone have any suggestions? Fred<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

I am trying to remove the torsion balancer from the engine. I have the torque wrench set to 150 pounds and the nut is not moving. I tried jumping on the handle of the breaker bar and it is not moving. Does anyone have any suggestions? Fred

I am trying to remove the tortion balancer. With the torque wrench set at 150 pounds, I can not get the nut to move. I tried moving it both clock wise and counter clock wise. Does anyone have some ideas that may help. Fred

You can replace the cut out relay parts with a diod. I had a diod kit fforf a 35 Ford. I took it to the electronic partrs store and told them that it was for a positive ground and asked for the same thing with a negative ground. I am not too smart on electronics but this worked for me. Expect to pay around $85.00 for a replacement cut out relay at an auto parts store. They sell 2 styles, one that has mounting holes where yours are located and another style with the holes 90 degrees from where you want then. Fred Fred

Bluedog, I think your best bet for the floor boards is to take Steve's offer. 1926 and 1927 standard front floor boards are probably the same or close enough that it does not matter. If you are missing any of the metal plates around the pedals or steering column, let me know. I may have some. Fred

1930 series 40 bore 3 7/16 inches 1930 series 50 & 60 bore 3 3/4 inches

The mechanical parts are usually not a problem. Many of the engine parts interchange to `1937. Missing seats can be a real challenge. Make the guy an offer.

Originally, there was a filter screen inside the filler plug on the top of the vacuum tank. If this is a new car to you, check the fuel line under the floor boards for an in-line filter. That is a good place to install one. You can do it from above and not have gas running down your arm while working on it. When screwing things into the die cast tank top, do not use teflon tape. Teflon is a lubrficant. You can ovder tighten fittings and crack the tank top. Another place to check is the pick up tube in the gas tank. There is a screen on it that can get pluged up. When I replace the plugs in the vacuum tank top and the pick up tube in the gas tank, I put a little permatex #2 on the copper gaskets to seal them. Fred fred.rawling@live.com

My first thought is how long has it been since the fuel filter was changed. The next thing that I would do is fill the vacuum tank and see if the car runs for more than a minute or two. A full vacuum tank should be good for a 7 mile drive. If it runs for a while on the full vacuum tank, the next thing would be to place a very small piece of paper on the vent tube opening while the engine is running. If the paper sticks there, the vent valve is not closed. That valve should be closed when the float in the inner tank is down so gas can be sucked in from the gas tank.

I have gas tank straps from a 1928 and 1954 Buick. Send me the measurements on your straps and I will see if the ones that I are the right length. fred.rawling@live.com

Interesting commement about damaging the coil and gauges. On a 1926 Buick, the only electric gauge is the ammeter. I have jump started my 1928 Buick several times by putting one jumper on starter and the other on the spark plug cover wingnut. I make sure that I am the person touching the hot lead to he starter so I can remove it as soon as the engine fires. I do not clip it on the starter. I have not noticed any problems with the coil or ammeter. So, can the coil be damaged with such a short burst of 12 volts? The coil does have an external resistor. Is that what saved my coil?

I always thought that the only frame number for 1926 was on the plate riveted to the frame behind the passenger front wheel and that it was not stamped on the frame.

When you cleaned the electrical connections, did you run a file between the points. Sometimes after sitting, they get a glaze or film on them and will not conduct the electircity. A quick check for spark is to remove the distributor cap and with the ignition on, open the points. You should see the spark jump across the opening.

I forgot to add my e-mail address fred.rawling@live.com and also the correct gap on the 3076 plugs is .040 inspite of what Autolite recomends.

For spark plugs, buy Autolite # 3076. They work well and are short enough that you can put the spark plug cover on over them. Check the ads in the Buick Bugle for the points . If you are not a Buick Club of America member and do not get the monthly Bugle, send mean e-mail and I will return a BCA application with information how to join. Fred

1926 standard model 27 chasis, rear end, 4 doors, drivers side front fender, side aprons below doors and above running boards, radiator core, brake parts, cowl, wheels, rims, rear of body, trans gears and case but no main shaft and u joint and some engine parts and seat springs. 1928 model 27 chasis, wheels, rear end, seat springs, cowl, radiator and shell. 1928 model 47 chasis, rims, brake parts, engine block and upper crank case 4 doors, cowl, hood, and rear of the body. The best way to reach me is fred.rawling@live.com or 562 644-4670 Fred

Jon, Do you still need the push rods? Fred.rawling@live.com

If you have the old one, try super gluing it to the tower. I did that and it worked.

I AM INTERESTED IN THE 61 SPECIAL PARTS. Please send me a note with the price. fred.rawling@live.com Fred

1928 model 27 frame, cowl, fenders with some bondo, wheels, brake parts, differential, transmission, head lights, radiator shell, radiator core . Best way to contact me is fred.rawling@live.com or 562 644-4670

350 V 8, EXTENDED CAB, $5,000 OBO BED COVER AND LINER, 124,000 MILES, 5 SPEED, 15 INCH SPOKE ALUMINUM WHEELS, LIGHT BLUE AND DARK BLUE 2 TONE, GARAGED ALL OF ITS LIFE. EMACULATE IN AND OUT CALL JOE 562 923-8577 MY FATHER IN LAW in Downey, Ca. OR e-mail me. fred.rawling@live.com

Thank you Stuart, I did notice when I turned off the fuel from the vacuum tank that it seemed to keep running. I was looking for the fuel from the vacuum tank flooding the carburetor, not being sucked out of the top by the vacuum line. I am going to check it out now. Fred