The Old Guy

Contadt D&D Fabrications in Almont Michigan Phone: 810-792491 They are VERY knowledgable about the 215 aluminun engines

I'm sorry to hear that Jim passed away.I met him at the first BCA national in Flint ,and can say that he will be sorely missed in the Buick community.

Your 42 engine has babbitted bearings and they can be a bit tricky for a first time project.

The latest info I have seen has Valvoline with .11 zinc ,which is about the best you will find in todays oils. I have used it for 40+ years, and not had a failure due to oil.

Nirb deserves ALL the credit! He is the one that did the leg work and got all the permission to do this wonderful thing. He also got the quotes for the work and collected the funding.We just were the cheer leaders.

I am not sure whether that will work, but I do know that without installing a 4 link set up or something of that ilk, the rear axle will have nothing to position it. The torque tube is the main unit to keep the axle in position.

You are welcome! I wish the news had been that they are readily available. as I hate to see parts that cost as much as these. Tha good thing is that we still have people that will step up to the plate and get them repoped for us

You wou;d be MUCH better off to leave the butterfly, open. If you shut it off. you will burn the valves and the engine will be subject to overheating

Dave , to my knowledge, Buick made only the 248-263 and 320 engines in 1950. the 56 C with the Dynaflow had the 263 Bobs Automobilia is getting them reproduced. They are not cheap, but the supply of good used ones has just about dried up.

Most of the old boxes leak, so I fill them half way with 90-140 gear lube and then fill it the rest of the way with moly chassis lube. only driving them when the weather is above freezing, the mixture diesn't stiffen up, but is thick enough not to leak out.

I went a different route than most. I have a 32X48 pole building with 12 foot side walls for storage. It has sheiving around 1 side and part of the front that goes to the ceiling with the bottom shelves 3 feet wide and the top 6 feet of shelving at 18 inches so I have a walkway to all my "stuff". It also has a mezzaine in the back that is 6 feet wide that holds all my "special" stuff (parts that are not for sale) I work in a 20X30 building that is heated and air conditioned and has a second floor that houses my auto memorabilia ( and a pool table and a fridge for "cold ones" )

Aaron, it looks like you took the picture of the 53 at the "Goldeb Memories" show at the Sloan museum. I looked your Buick over, and had a little chat with you as I was leaving. Your 65 looks like a nice ride too

Most old cars are only driven in warm weather, and the heat riser is not really necessary. If it does not free up easily, I would take the torch and remove the inside. From the exterior it won't look any different, and you will not have to worry about it ever sticking again.

If he is knowledgable about hydramatics , he should have no problem. the trans has two pumps, and the rear one is driven off the driveshaft. When you tow the vehicle witout disconnecting the driveshaft,the rear pump supplies pressure to the clutches . this is how you could push start a hyrdamatic equipped car. You probably cooked the clutches and bands.

I personnaly use a completely different approach to storing my Buicks. My theory ( and it is only a theory)is that you can never really get all the components ( engine oil ,trans oil,exhaust system etc) hot enough to really keep condensation at bay. I change the oil, and put the cars in the barn. I fill the fuel tanks and cover them up. I have a battery tender on the 6 volt Buick, and I go out evry 30-45 days and hook up the charger to the 12 volt cars. In the spring, I take them out and run all the old gas out amd they are ready to go for the summer. I regularly run 15,000-20,000 miles per year in the old cars and they have never failed me yet.

Sorry I missed you Dave! My oldest son just finished building his house, and I wouldnt miss a thing like this. As much as I love my Buicks, family still comes first.

Mine was a 72 Electra, but it had to be shortened. the body mounts line up but you need to remove some frame to get the front wheels to fit properly in the wells. I was later told that a Regal chassis would have fit with less alteration. The bodies came down the line, and they did not change the frame mounting pads, as that would have required a change in the line at Fisher body.

I had a 57 on a later chassis ( Electra with the 455) This gives you suspension to match the HP.

The rear ends form 1940 to 1955 are interchangable. You can remove the cast center section from your 40 which is either a 3.9 4.1 -4.4 and replace it with a V8 dynaflow unit. These are 3.3 3.6 and are MUCH more user friendly on the interstate. I have a 3.4 in my 40 and it cruises effortless at at 70+ all day.

I met Jim at one of the first BCA meets in Flint. He was showing his 49 wagon. I always considered him one of the most knowledgeable members of the BCA. I am gld to hear that he is doing better, and will also say a prayer for him.

I believe that is the total number of driven awrds that have been given out since the start of the program. I received number 3 in Plano with my 69 Sportwagon, and received 197 for my 40 convertible in Rochester

The ST-400 that came on the 64 up 401s will bolt on with no adapter, but the back of the crank will need to be modified.

I have a "master switch" on the power to the spotlites on my 40 I can use it to turn off the power to both lights.

When you go to the drag strip, count me in! My coupe runs high 13s at 100MPH . With the gearing , it does it in first and sacond gear. It is fun on the road to watch the expression on the young guys faces , when they try me on out on the X-way, and hear it downshift at 80. The thing runs 110 in passing gear.

As Mark stated, the shims are between the rod ansd cap. removing shims will tighten up the clearance , but the hole will actually be oval. The tight spot will be in line with the rod. By removing babbet with a scraper after finding the tight spot with blue dye, you remove a little at a time until you have the hole almost round. It requires patience, but will give you a better bearing than you can have poured today. I was a tool maker for 40 years, so perhaps I am simplifying things too much.