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groselle

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About groselle

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/04/1965

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  • Website URL
    http://www.1936buick.com

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Rexburg, Idaho

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  1. As far as I know that is an oil line for oiling the throwout bearing. It requires an occasional drop or two of machine oil.
  2. Just saw this on Craigslist: 1936 Buick Fenders and Trunk
  3. From my Buick Master Parts List for Chassis Parts: Group 8.130 FENDER, Front (Prime Finish) Part # 1293790 1936 -40 (Right) Part # 1293791 1936 -40 (Left) Part # 1293792 1936 -40 (With fender well) (Right) Part # 1293793 1936 -40 (With fender well) (Left) So it appears that there was only one size fender for the Series 40 regardless of number of doors. FYI - the price of the fenders was $23 without the fender well and $26.50 with it.
  4. I believe the front had a rubber floor mat, whereas there was carpet on the rear floor.
  5. I replaced all of the front suspension bushings and pins on my '36 last year. If I remember correctly all of the bushings were easy to press in. Seems like I removed the old ones by putting a bolt through a socket that was just larger than the bushing one on side and another socket large enough to ride over the bshing on the other. The new bushings do ned to be reemed to size. The only place in town here that did it was the local alignment shop. Seems like it cost $10 for each side for the kingpins.
  6. I'm in the process of replacing the wood in the front doors of my 1936 Special. I have all of the old wood out and a new set from David Entler. However, I'm curious how to handle the top of the door. There are two bolts that attach the top of the door to the wood. The only problem is that the heads of these bolt are underneath an overlapping piece of the door. I've attached a few pictures. Anyone have ideas as to how to get the old blts out and reinstalled? I could bend the top of the door all the way flat but that seems excessive. Any ideas would be appeciated. Thanks in advance.
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