harry yarnell

He did say he had a '90...

As to mounting the accumulator remotely, yes it has been done. I removed one from a European piece (jag, maybe?) that had the accumulator all the way over on the passengers side of the engine bay.

Yup, that's the 'approved' method of removal. That said, some of these CV joints REFUSE to pop out. I've gotten creative with two pry bars. I've even used a log splitting wedge and maul to pop that joint/circlip. Leave the four bolts/nuts alone. I've also made up a slide hammer with a shifter fork from a manual transmission welded on

I see no mention of replacing the cam magnet...the major cause of code 41.

Easy. Remove the strut and the spindle/bearing housing pivots on the ball joint and flexes the axle joints til they pop out.

One of the CV joints has come apart.

Drill out the rivets.

Is it silicone? Never put silicone brake fluid in a pump driven master cylinder.

Yup.

Code 41 is almost ALWAYS the cam magnet missing.

No vacuum line to the BCM. Vacuum line in the engine bay is another one to check. Easy to dislodge when muckeling around under the hood.

I'm with Dave on this. My first choice is swaybar links.

I have good ECM's for $50 plus ship.

This is a common problem on the '90s. Bad (but repairable) cluster (IPC). '88s; not so much. This would be my first suspect. Not sure why the A/C would go out, as the two are independent of each other.

Excuse me?

As for using a used accumulator, I have no problem using one. You'll know pretty quick if it's shot. Cadillac of the late '80s- early 90's used the Teves as an option brake system. I harvest accumulators and pumps at the salvage yard as they appear.

Leave the Trans Tune IN. I don't believe in car repairs in a can, but this stuff works.

Your eyes are better than mine. Besides, it takes too much time from driving safely to 'find' the right spot to push. Hell, I have trouble pushing the buttons on a rough road!

My point was, that if the display is stretched, the soft keys won't be where the overlay needs to function; you'd have to press over (or under) the green button.

This is a vertical sweep issue. Definitely a circuit issue. I was an electronic tech back in the day, and usually the height can be adjusted, but I can't remember if there's a HEIGHT adjustment on these Zenith units. My question is , if the vertical scan is stretched, as in this case, do the soft button functions work?

The HVAC defaults to DEFROST when vacuum is lost.

I've had 'issues' with a '91 Allante, with a similar braking system by Bosch. I rigged a small panel with a lamp and switch. The lamp was wired across the pump so I could see when (or if) the pump was running. The switch was wired to energize the pump (eliminating downstream problems). I may do the same with the Reatta.

No, I think heat is only a conjecture at this point.

I don't share your concern on 30 year old fan motors. Either they work, or they don't...and they don't run all the time; unless you wire them to do that...like someone on this list.

I'm discounting boiling brake fluid. I had good brakes. ...but I don't have any answer other than a WAG.