harry yarnell

Awhile ago, Fram oil filters got a bad rap. Why? Are the current filters 'any good'?

Oh I like THAT!

Yes, you can use your original cylinder and key in the replacement column.

Water is not compressible? Really?

MY first thought is the sending unit. Wiper looses its 'spring' and makes poor contact. Hello Bob.

I just went out and "tested" 7 used accumulators on the shelf with a plastic alignment tool from my TV repair days. The tool went in 7/8" in 6 units, and 3 I/2" in one unit. I have a brand new one I was going to test, but it's still sealed in its package and I didn't want to 'disturb' it.

Well the CPS was replaced and a 20 mile test was uneventfull. Hopefully that was the problem. CPS failures are sneaky. Installing a CPS requires a good eye for alignment. I cut off the end flap of the box the new CPS came in; bend it into a U shape and stick it in the outer slot of the CPS as a shim. Aligning the vanes on the HB with the gap in the folded shim, I achieve proper alignment. Tighten the clamp screw and remove the HB and shim; reinstall the HB and check alignment again. Usually it's spot on.

CPS? Crankshaft position sensor or central power supply? Both have the same acronym. Yes, the crankshaft pos sensor is a great suspect; why didn't I think of that sooner.

Driving the '88 the other day, and suddenly it just died at 30 mph. As the car drifted, it restarted. Ran for about 100 yards and died again. The restart was off and on for the next 1/2 mile til it refused to start. Cranked just fine. Rollback was there in 10 minutes and it was back to the garage. Hit it with some ether and it sputtered. Thinking fuel issues. Later in the day it fired up like nothing was wrong. Let it idle for an hour. Nothing wrong. Drove it 5 miles today and nothing wrong. Thinking fuel pump, but this behavior doesn't seem typical; or is it? Thinking also the fuel pump relay, but isn't the relay bypassed by a set of contacts in the oil pressure switch? I'm going out now to do some troubleshooting, but I HATE intermittents...

How do you get the glass out of the housing? We're talking a right hand outside mirror.

Putty knife.

Yes, pulling the radiator and condenser makes a world of difference in 'ease' of repair. I thought mineral oil was the correct oil for R-12.

How do you adjust the hood alignment? I've got a replacement hood that I installed years ago, and I've never been happy as to how it fits. The hood is raised about 3/8" on both sides at the windshield. I've adjusted the stops, but didn't help. The LF corner sticks out (forward) about 1/2"; the RF is fine. So how do you make adjustments?

I use a putty knife for removing emblems.

Barbed metal splices are available to splice the plastic fuel lines. I've used them to repair lawn rats (squirrel) bites on the fuel lines.

Plugs, wires, and ignition module come to mind. A clogged cat could cause these also.

As for the erratic temp gauge, either you have a short to ground on the yellow lead (CTS), bad CTS (unlikely), or a bad ECM. I know you said it was replaced, but... Unplug the CTS and see what you get.

I see you're in good company; a '30s buick, a Riviera, and my favorite are a bunch of Corvairs.

WTF???

I have no problem calling them 'center caps', but I'm old and hub cap is a term that is fitting to the days when you had dog dish hubcaps; 'full' hubcaps (aka. wheel covers) were a snazzed up option. Dust caps were the little caps you tapped on the end of the spindle/race to protect the outer wheel bearing.

They cover the HUB, don't they?

What's wrong with a screwdriver?

The knob spins, but the doors don't. move. Something mechanical's wrong here; not electrical. since both lamps were replaced, and both doors won't open, perhaps there's something mechanically wrong with the bulbs binding.

Cam magnet is 95% of the cause of code 41.

I don't see cam MAGNET in your list of replaced parts